Ground cables
Installing the main ground cable
Instructions
Use the donor ground cable to ground the battery to the battery box. Hold the battery cable against the passenger side of the battery box with the metal tab inside the large hole. Mark the center of the mount hole and drill an 11/32” hole. If you’ve already installed your battery, remove it before you drill so that you don’t poke a hole in the side of it.
Use one of your donor’s 8mm bolts and nuts to mount the ground cable. Install the bolt from inside the battery box so that the head of the bolt is toward the battery. This will make it less likely to poke a hole in the battery. Don’t forget to clean the powder coat and/or use a toothed lock washer so that the ground makes good contact.
After you’ve got the ground bolted where it needs to be, leave the battery disconnected during your build and only connect it when you need to fire up the engine or test the electrical system.
The ground cable has a sensor around it that measures current. You should have left the wires for the current sensor rolled up at the front of your car after you installed the harness. At this point, you can connect the current sensor. You can either trim and solder the wires shorter or just coil them up and zip tie them to the frame. Connect the black ground wire of the current sensor to the frame or sheet metal.
Mounting remaining grounds
Instructions
Depending on how you wrapped your harness, your grounds could be in slightly different places from ours. Be creative and use some of the smaller donor bolts and nuts to mount the grounds.
Here are a few places you should have grounds:
When you ground to the engine, make sure you are not grounding to the valve cover. It is isolated from the engine by a rubber gasket so it is not grounded. Attach to the cylinder head or lower instead.
Installing the main ground cable
Instructions
Use the donor ground cable to ground the battery to the battery box. Hold the battery cable against the passenger side of the battery box with the metal tab inside the large hole. Mark the center of the mount hole and drill an 11/32” hole. If you’ve already installed your battery, remove it before you drill so that you don’t poke a hole in the side of it.
Use one of your donor’s 8mm bolts and nuts to mount the ground cable. Install the bolt from inside the battery box so that the head of the bolt is toward the battery. This will make it less likely to poke a hole in the battery. Don’t forget to clean the powder coat and/or use a toothed lock washer so that the ground makes good contact.
After you’ve got the ground bolted where it needs to be, leave the battery disconnected during your build and only connect it when you need to fire up the engine or test the electrical system.
The ground cable has a sensor around it that measures current. You should have left the wires for the current sensor rolled up at the front of your car after you installed the harness. At this point, you can connect the current sensor. You can either trim and solder the wires shorter or just coil them up and zip tie them to the frame. Connect the black ground wire of the current sensor to the frame or sheet metal.
Mounting remaining grounds
Instructions
Depending on how you wrapped your harness, your grounds could be in slightly different places from ours. Be creative and use some of the smaller donor bolts and nuts to mount the grounds.
Here are a few places you should have grounds:
- pedal box
- tunnel - use a donor bolt and nut to hold this ground somewhere on the tunnel.
- radiator fan - we like to use the front brake tee bolt to hold this ground
- engine/transmission
When you ground to the engine, make sure you are not grounding to the valve cover. It is isolated from the engine by a rubber gasket so it is not grounded. Attach to the cylinder head or lower instead.