K04 Manual boost control on NA motor

[Robf]

So since I can't control boost with my ecm im replacing it with a manual boost controller from ZZP. Yes I have forged internals on the 2.2 and id like around 15psi of boost.

Would I remove the waste gate actuator control solenoid then cap off the boost reference vacuum line and atmosphere line.

Then connect the manual boost controller to the intake vacuum/boost barbed fitting on one end then connect right to the wastegate actuator barb?

On the second/third pic the T piece connects to the top intake barb then goes to my boost gauge and the boost bypass valve on the turbo.

On the last pics the vacuum barb off the turbo goes to an oil catch can then to the valve cover.

Thoughts suggestions? Does this all seem correct?

 

[Sluggonaut]

So since I can't control boost with my ecm im replacing it with a manual boost controller from ZZP. Yes I have forged internals on the 2.2 and id like around 15psi of boost.

Would I remove the waste gate actuator control solenoid then cap off the boost reference vacuum line and atmosphere line.

Then connect the manual boost controller to the intake vacuum/boost barbed fitting on one end then connect right to the wastegate actuator barb?

On the second/third pic the T piece connects to the top intake barb then goes to my boost gauge and the boost bypass valve on the turbo.

On the last pics the vacuum barb off the turbo goes to an oil catch can then to the valve cover.

Thoughts suggestions? Does this all seem correct?

I recommend going with an electronic boost controller instead of the manual boost controller. My LSJ ECM can't control boost either and the GFB Gforce III made a world of difference over the manual boost controller.

My boost controller is connected to the wastegate control vacuum line and the boost reference vacuum line, so I don't think the boost reference line gets capped off. I do have my atmospheric reference vacuum line capped.

 

[Robf]

I recommend going with an electronic boost controller instead of the manual boost controller. My LSJ ECM can't control boost either and the GFB Gforce III made a world of difference over the manual boost controller.

My boost controller is connected to the wastegate control vacuum line and the boost reference vacuum line, so I don't think the boost reference line gets capped off. I do have my atmospheric reference vacuum line capped.

With where I planned on mounting the boost controller it was easier running a line from the intake than the one off the turbo. From what I gather the k04 starts to open around 5psi and fully open around 10. Does that sound right? I have zzps boost controller currently and was thinking if I go the manual route I'll tune it at the 15psi boost on a dyno. I don't believe I can go much more than that due to fueling concerns of the computer not adjusting fuel pressure with boost.

How long did it take to install the GFB? Fairly simple process?

 

[Sluggonaut]

Yes, very easy process - the solenoid goes in place of the manual controller and then you run the wires up to the front through the tunnel and mount the head unit somewhere.

I have the ZZP entry-level turbo kit that was already installed in my donor, so I didn't do the turbo swap myself. I ran into an issue making boost last year before I figured out the wastegate wasn't closing because I reclocked my turbo to clear the frame and that pulled on the actuator rod keeping the wastegate slightly open. Once I got that adjusted, I had no issues hitting the 22 psi the donor was tuned at. I run a few different settings with the GFB controller that I switch between using a scramble button but the gain setting can also be used to adjust how fast the boost comes on.

I'm running an E85 tune with a stock fuel pump and the 80# Siemens injectors and don't have any fueling issues with the ZZP tune.

I was running the ZZP manual controller and hit 22 psi just fine after I corrected the actuator rod issue. The K04 was hitting 10-11 PSI on spring pressure with the controller removed.

 

[Robf]

Yes, very easy process - the solenoid goes in place of the manual controller and then you run the wires up to the front through the tunnel and mount the head unit somewhere.

I have the ZZP entry-level turbo kit that was already installed in my donor, so I didn't do the turbo swap myself. I ran into an issue making boost last year before I figured out the wastegate wasn't closing because I reclocked my turbo to clear the frame and that pulled on the actuator rod keeping the wastegate slightly open. Once I got that adjusted, I had no issues hitting the 22 psi the donor was tuned at. I run a few different settings with the GFB controller that I switch between using a scramble button but the gain setting can also be used to adjust how fast the boost comes on.

I'm running an E85 tune with a stock fuel pump and the 80# Siemens injectors and don't have any fueling issues with the ZZP tune.

I was running the ZZP manual controller and hit 22 psi just fine after I corrected the actuator rod issue. The K04 was hitting 10-11 PSI on spring pressure with the controller removed.

My stock 2.2l pump doesn't have as much juice as the lsj and according to zzps website they recommend boost reference fuel system greater than 15psi of boost.

I was really wanting to go e85. Then i realized I needed bigger injectors, bigger pump, bigger wiring, boost reference fuel system. So I figure I'll go one step at a time 15psi should be a decent jump over my m62 that was doing about 10.

The lsj entry turbo sway is with a k04 right? What kind of power you putting down? Is there any programming required for the GFB?

 

[Sluggonaut]

Yes, the entry-level kit is the K04 and uses the laminova core intake from the LSJ.

I haven't had the car on a dyno myself but the donor owner claimed something over 300 but I never saw a dyno sheet so I'm not sure. I really don't care what a dyno says, this thing is fast enough running spring pressure and 22 psi is just ridiculous.

The only "programming" for the Gforce III is setting the duty cycle on the solenoid. You basically drive around and adjust the duty cycle setting until you reach the psi you want. There are videos on how to set it up and it was even easier than it looked on the video.

 

[Robf]

Yes, the entry-level kit is the K04 and uses the laminova core intake from the LSJ.

I haven't had the car on a dyno myself but the donor owner claimed something over 300 but I never saw a dyno sheet so I'm not sure. I really don't care what a dyno says, this thing is fast enough running spring pressure and 22 psi is just ridiculous.

The only "programming" for the Gforce III is setting the duty cycle on the solenoid. You basically drive around and adjust the duty cycle setting until you reach the psi you want. There are videos on how to set it up and it was even easier than it looked on the video.

I ended up buying the gforce 3. We shall see how it goes. Thanks for the suggestion. We're the wires long enough to run from your dash through the tunnel cover and to solenoid?

 

[Sluggonaut]

I ended up buying the gforce 3. We shall see how it goes. Thanks for the suggestion. We're the wires long enough to run from your dash through the tunnel cover and to solenoid?

I extended them a foot or 2 because I had them go up to the front of the tunnel and back up the bar towards the dash where I mounted the head unit. Fozda installed one also and extended his wiring - I think he mounted his behind the steering wheel.

Make sure to mark the wires when you cut them, as they are the same color. I just put tape on both sides of the first one I cut so I wouldn't cross the wires when extending them.