Recent content by andyseavers

Currently I have P0449 - Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve / Solenoid Circuit P0452 - Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor / Switch low P2229 - Barometric Pressure Circuit High

I replaced the fuse block and got the lights back and the issue I have been dealing with for two years is gone. I’m very close. Here’s the issue I’m dealing with now: - Can’t get the engine to crank. When I manually trigger the crank relay, it fires right up, but then the engine revs like it’s...

After working today, I am able to close the relay manually (by taking the cover off and pinching it), which turns the car on and I’m able to start it. It appears that I have the interchangeable plugs in the right spot as I assume the car wouldn’t start otherwise, but at this point who knows...

I still don’t have power to the 20an IP IGN fuse, but I did use the above diagram and had one of the plugs swapped. I was able to send power through the pink/white wire to bypass the fuse and was able to get the engine to start and run! First start, finally! Very satisfying. Now I just need to...

I said it got pulled loose. I don’t know where or how. Let me try and give you as much information as I can (apologies for any repeats). Thanks for the help! - We have no 12v power at the IP IGN with the car on or off. - When we hot wire and put 12v directly to the 20a fuse, the car wakes up...

I found what seems to be the same pink wire zip tied underneath the steering column. Not sure why that was done by df, but it seems to have activated the pink wire, but now my engine is spitting fuel again. I originally assumed the fuel spitting was a symptom of the wiring being wrong, but now I...

I’m not exactly sure. The wire is hanging loose, coming out of the harness near the brake boosters. It’s near the bcm at the front of the goblin. Not sure what to tie it in to.

Looks like this wire got pulled loose. Do you know how to connect it to the ECM?

I wired in a chassis ground to the run crank and we got the car to wake up, but because that ground needs to be an ecu ground, the injectors were staying open and spraying too much fuel into the engine. The bundle of black wires that gets grounded to a bolt and then the frame seems to be fine...

The portion with the gap is a fixed width and this is as wide as it goes.

Is there a chance I was sent rear brakes for a base model (10mm) vs my SS/SC (22mm)?

After a year and a half of not being able to work on my car, I’m back with some updates. - Figured out the ground to the crank relay wasn’t grounding properly. Ran a ground directly to the relay which now has the fuel pump priming and the throttle body moving. Push clutch sensor in and the...

The ground pin for the run crank relay isn’t grounding. I’m going to run a new ground to that. Once the battery charges will see if we have enough power.

Newest updates for more context: Here is a video of us activating the Run/Crank relay and we get the fuel pump, throttle body, and a very weak crank (could be us messing with the battery all day). here is a video...

Can’t seem to get my Goblin to start. When I turn the key, I get power, but when I turn the ignition to start I get a click and then nothing. It seems as if I’m not getting all lights on my panel. I’m getting full power to the OBDII. When I run a line to this relay, I get all lights. The...