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I'm still waiting a few days of driving it to see if the problem resurfaces after having changed the fuses... . If the corrosion on the fuses really ends up being the "silver bullet" then I will go back to the first post with an edit to point to the solution being the fuses. Thanks everyone ^_^

Yessir! that was one of my first tests that i performed. had a coworker watch the guages as i moved things around on the rear fuse box then the BCM fuse box under the kickplate. neither test was conclusive, as the guages held steady. I did find that there was a LOT of corrosion onf the fuses on...

the problem is exactly this... funny enough this is also one of those videos I watched trying to get to the bottom of this, ha ha ha.... I'm going to check if the BCM plug is problematic as well as testing several grounding connections with the ECM, low oil switch, and IP EDIT/ follow-up...

So on the trip home today the issue dissolved sporadically on its own as i pulled into my street. not sure if it has anything to do with the gauge cluster plug clearance yet as it didnt seems to have any significant "pinching" going on and the wires were not pinned down or difficult to adjust...

will have to check that IPC plug... maybe it is time to add more spacers behind the cluster. I dont think the oil filter scratching is an issue in this build as most of my wires at that area are ziptied away, will snap a pic later...

So recently have been having issues diagnosing a problem as described in the title... but it seems to be intermittent. Or at least every time i touch something or try one of the Three big fixes for this issue the problem resurfaces. REPLACE ECM/TCM fuse clean wiring harness going to the ECM...

yeah, the Goblin is quick enough as N/A, the UEL header at this point for the turbo build is simply for the LuLz. as much as I channel "cheap bastard" energy, i always attempt the planning with three options.... cheapest budget, most cost effective, & "that'd be nice to have" additional notes...

been playing around with the design of an UEL header in my mind, still looking for local fabricators to ask for a quote. looking at the firing order and presuming that it is roughly the same as subarus Ecotec's firing order is 1-3-4-2... soo best guess is that I've four options to play with as...

Turbo in hand, I've to figure out how this beast is going to be mounted. looking into options for a header, i find that the only viable off the shelf reliability might be the ZZP header. it will require an additional adapter between the header and block to obstruct the SAI channels : Manifold...

Starting the thread now with planning and updates to follow... any advice from the experienced is always welcome ;-) This post: acquired used Z54 from fellow Goblin Builder; research has begun on progress path toward full installation. EDIT: minutia and small ramblings can be found in main...

resource find from Garrett Motion, turbo replacement notes, TL ; DR make sure mating surfaces are immaculate install with new oil feed lines to reduce chance of old lines being damaged make sure flexible hoses will not be exposed to heat damage pre-lube by hand and allow oil to pass through the...

BIG SHOUT OUT TO @comegetjoe , as he just provided the key to the next evolution for my particular build...... a Z54 spinny boi!! Taking the time now to start the planning and preparations for full installation in one fell swoop (presuming no major hurdles) from what I have been reading and...

what's the damage to get this shipped to 20886 in Maryland? I was watching this thread since you bumped back in december... I'll take it off your hands ;)

this combination did not work for me. uncertain what the piston bore sizes were... rear are from donor and the front are from DF... I think the problem was isolated to the bad combination of the booster and master cylinder not matching exactly. the latest development is in the aesthetics...

paired with a [Raybestos MC391187 Professional Grade Brake Master Cylinder] from Amazon that was categorized to fit a 2010. I am pretty sure at this point it was a mismatch on the dimensions as well as the engagement point between the two...

The brake booster was from user: Desert Sasqwatch The master cylinder was from RockAuto... unsure if I could specify which year and trim, many assumptions were made on my part. I'll be putting them both in the classifieds once I do confirm which trim they are.

I think the issue is resolved at this point... simply ran to the local pick-your-part and grabbed a matching cylinder and booster. I would say that the theories about the cylinder being sticking too far into the booster are probably correct.... I did try and isolate the wheels but the condition...

a couple STLs for headlight mounting... lost previous model of what is currently mounted. The problem with the current draft is that the headlights interfere with opening the front bonnet. at the moment, the headlights have to swivel out of the way to access the front opening swing. wanted to...

did not think to check brake temps after coasting.... my brain has been turned mush recently by my job, ha ha. will give this a shot once i have time to take it out for a test drive. just as a request for a sanity check.... it shouldn't matter if the Non-SS booster is mated with an SS cylinder...

OK,so... further updates show that problem persists where something is slowing the car down. I've already did a flush and fill for the Transmission, the drained fluid looked somewhat dark and not a lot of metallic shimmer, maybe a good sign. Having did the flush and driven it around the block...