On a side note, make sure the supplied plugs are tight. Mine were loose and leaking coolant. Still in the cobalt when I did the swap so was hard to figure out it was leaking from the plugs, probably not so bad on the Goblin.
put the gasket on a flat bed scanner, better than trying to take a photo. You can then put the image into the CAD system of your choice, scale if needed (typically don't need to scale it if your scanner outputs a PDF file) and trace over it - use circles instead of splines for the bolt holes :cool:
I agree, but shortening this tube is an easy modification that fixed the wheel position with the QD
I took 2 inches out of it, positioning feels just right for me now.
Yes, it's actually never been plugged in since i've had the goblin running.
Are you talking about the In Gear cutoff RPM or something else? I currently have those set at 7200 per your guide 1 recommendation.
Did my first bit of logging today and looking for some hand holding to make sure I'm going through the steps correctly :rolleyes:
I loaded up @OptimizePrime layout and channels into my VCM scanner. Set the MAF Correction Base table to all 1's and uploaded the tune using VCM Editor, got the car...
I could not fit a fuel line disconnect tool in this to get the check valve off.
I just cut the metal line off, i wasn't worried about saving it because I wasn't planning on using it.
A standard fuel line tool did work at the valve cover connection though. Like this, or similar.
How thick are the DF aluminum side panels? I'm working up a gullwing roof setup and thinking riveting a similar thickness aluminum sheet to a tubing framework might work OK.
They also make the front and rear mounts horizontal, which fixes the backwards "anti" geometry (squat, lift) from the FWD suspension setup.
I did a full analysis of the "stock" suspension here if you want to read more about it.
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