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I bought an eBay special aluminum short shifter for the Cobalt. The bell-cranks from the kit seemed to have a lot of slop, so I purchased the DF bearing bell-cranks. I also slotted the shifter bracket on the trans so the shifter cables points true. Everything went together but there was too...

Update I noticed the shifter was not as good as it used to be… I tore into it and found one of the cables was very hard to move. I disconnected the cables and pointed them up behind the seats. I then clamped a piece of hose on the cable and put in a combo of penetrating oil and 3 in one. I...

Just wanted to update my build on the front wing. I upgraded to 1/4” - 2x2 aluminum angle. 23” in length will allow for the front hood to be moved forward to remove the hood. To help with bowing of the angle, I installed a piece of 1/4” all thread under the radiator. Finally I installed a...

You have been a mentor. Thanks for putting your numbers out there as a guideline.

I was lucky to attend an autocross school yesterday. I got 10 runs in, 7 with an instructor. I learned so much and my times got better and better. https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/just-attended-novice-scca-autocross-school.5702/#post-118287 My instructor drove my car again and...

Thanks! Saw your reply this morning. Went out and dug through the spare nut and bolt bucket and found the original knurled bolts. I found 1 bolt in Canada. Looks like these bolts are discontinued. I have washers from 2 sets of cam bolts that have an offset and teeth built into them. I think I’ll...

Just went Autocross racing. The mounts survived even going off-road/off track. Thanks for the mounts!

What a fun time. Ran at Cummins test track in Columbus Indiana. I learned a lot and the Goblin was a hit. May have sold a couple of kits…. Set the best times for the day myself and also with 2 instructors driving. Take that for what it is - we were all novices. I did better all the other cars...

Just went racing again and my rear strut moved to positive camber. This is the second time. I have the new rear tubular subframe and the strut mount looks like polished billet. Disclaimer - both times when it happened the car was sent off-roading/off track. The jolt seems to be pushing it out...

Installed mine tonight. Everything looked in spec. FYI - I ordered new 10” springs by accident. They fit with rear fenders.

Corbeau FX series will mount w DF mounting hardware. They come in Pro (small), regular (medium) and large (wide/big boy). I have the wide and am 275/6’2”. Very comfortable for what they are.

Big thing is it looks like he swapped the front and rear springs. Make sense to me. The front suspension hardly moves while the rear really moves.

For those with the new tubular subframe, what are you spring rates, alignment settings and damper settings? I had a champion auto cross driver drive my car last weekend. He gave me a few suggestions and it actually lines up with Justin Reeds last posted setup. FYI - he posted the best time...

Torrington bearings - top or bottom of spring?

Any updates?

What toe settings have you had problems with? I “had” my rear at 1/8” but am installing the new tubular rear cradle. I have read that GM set the rear of the Corvair at 1/4” total to help with lift oversteer with some Corvair racers going upwards of 3/8”.

My notes from last alignment: Front Castor: Calibrate gauge on center console back to front. 1/2 turn for 1 degree change on small heim A-arm. http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/diy-front-end-alignment.751/post-21991...

Set Front castor to 8.5 - 9.5*, camber to 0.5* and toe to 1/8”. Mine was so much more stable after redoing the alignment to these specs. Front wing / splitter also helps.

Thanks for the heads up! Only 2 left - ordered mine. Order now!