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V1 Donor or Fresh...

mbasaraba

Member
M
Been talking to another member and he sent me 2 great links and want to have a discussion or advice on the option...

I stated in my introduction thread but will put here also, I would really like to go auto transmission. I wont be racing or anything so I shouldnt kill it.

New Motor with TC

New Auto Transmission

My question(s) are besides a subframe that I will have to source, what drawbacks from going this route? I know more expensive, already $3400 for just the motor and tranny, alternator, etc, but difficulty installing it in the kit?

Wire harness and computer options?

I am sure I can get steering and gauges from a Pick-A-Part or find a VERY cheap donor with no motor or tranny to get some of the stuff I need.

Input is GREATLY appreciated.
 
Ark :D
If you want an auto in a TC, look for an HHR SS donor like @Torchandregdoc did. I know there's a couple people on here that built or are building a Goblin without a donor, and I believe I recall hearing them kvetch a few times wishing they had bought a donor.
 
M
If you want an auto in a TC, look for an HHR SS donor like @Torchandregdoc did. I know there's a couple people on here that built or are building a Goblin without a donor, and I believe I recall hearing them kvetch a few times wishing they had bought a donor.

I am not apposed to buying a donor for the other parts I will need, just curious about this motor and tranny used WITH a donor instead of that motor/tranny.
 
Vwsaabvt
BUY A DONOR the random hardware adds up along with lots of other parts; pedals, control arms, knuckles, steering rack, brake master, cluster, bcm, tcm, ecm, fuse box, all the wiring, etc...

also the transmission you linked is a 5 speed manual.
 
Ark :D
Those new F35's are manuals, which runs counter to your first post. Additionally, you should factor the cost of the LSD option in, as well. (It's a smidge more :eek: )
 
M
Those new F35's are manuals, which runs counter to your first post. Additionally, you should factor the cost of the LSD option in, as well. (It's a smidge more :eek: )

You're right, not sure why I thought it was an auto that I posted so scratch that part of it. How about just the motor? If I could find a donor with a bad motor would this be a pretty much direct swap?
 
Ark :D
You're right, not sure why I thought it was an auto that I posted so scratch that part of it. How about just the motor? If I could find a donor with a bad motor would this be a pretty much direct swap?

Yep, direct swap. As far as I know, anyway. I didn't buy a new crate engine, but many here, have.
 
M
Sorry, I missed the part about an automatic in your first post. That would definitely lead you more down a path of cheaper NA model and upgrade later to add a turbo.

If I buy something with a 150k mile motor I would want it fresh anyways which would cost a penny or 2 so the new motor is still an option even if I did get a donor for the other pieces.
 
R
If I buy something with a 150k mile motor I would want it fresh anyways which would cost a penny or 2 so the new motor is still an option even if I did get a donor for the other pieces.
You had mentioned you’d be ok with tearing down the motor, right? If so, mileage shouldn’t matter a whole lot. Drive it as is until you do the turbo swap, during which you do the engine refresh as well.
 
R
Forged pistons and rods will cost around $800-900. Add a new timing chain kit, guide bolt, all new gaskets and seals and you’d be in around $1700-1800, cheaper than the new ATK engine that isn’t complete (others who have purchased have been missing a sensor here or there).
 
TheNuker
I went the hybrid route, Bought a donor then bought a brand new engine and transmission. I think the only parts I have used is fuse box, brake booster, master cylinder, gauge cluster, BCM,ECU, wiring, and the steering wheel bearing lol.

Nuker-
 
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