LNF 3 bar map sensor

SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
I’m getting ready to install a new pcm I got from ZZP with a tune (my pcm was tuner locked). When I pulled off the map sensors that came on the donor originally they were the Bosch 3 bar maps but the car didn’t run right. Whenever you got out of the throttle it surged through the turbo. So I put the stock ones back on and it ran fine. I thought the original pcm wasn’t tuned for it. Now that I’m getting ready to reuse them I noticed they are the same part number. Is that correct? The have the harness adapters for both that plug right in
 

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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I’m not following your same as and new and stock references.

You should have one that includes an iat sensor stock but someone could have modified the vehicle to have a separate iat sensor or used sensors that have iat sensor in both locations but it won’t have the temp wired on one of them. I think that sensor is a 4 wire so it would likely be the latter.

You can search the HP Tuners site to find the correct linear and offset for that sensor in the tune.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I need to add that the HPT description for linear for the map values is incorrect and the value is actually per volt not per 5 volts. You need to divide the linear value linked above by 5.
 
SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
What I was talking about with the “stock” sensors are the first 2 photos. The 4 wire is on the cold side charge pipe. The 3 wire is on the intake. What came off of the engine when it wasn’t running right are the 3rd photo which are Bosch 3 bar maps with the same part number. You can see in the photo they have harnesses attached. One coverts one of the sensors from a 4 wire plug to a 3 wire. The other just concerns the plug end on the 4 wire to match the engine harness. I just want to make sure this is correct. It looks like that is what ZZP does
 

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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
The 12592017 is a stock LNF 2.5 Bar and is sometimes referend to as Low Res Boost Sensor.
The others are 3 bar. As long as the settings are changed in the ECM to match them, they are fine. I'm running a 4 bar in the Intake Manifold since that was in my new motor and a 3 bar in the other.
 
SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
I just installed my new PCM and reinstall the 3 bar map sensors. For the most part, the car drives normal under normal acceleration, but under hard acceleration when shifting, and I’m getting a flutter in the turbo again. I also noticed if I accelerate past 5500 RPMs, I get a pretty heavy misfire. I’m assuming it’s hitting a rev limiter cut out so I’m wondering should I be shifting sooner or do I need to look at having the rev limiter raised? I have to get out of it for it the clear up once it starts miss firing
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
SmsDetroit said:
I just installed my new PCM and reinstall the 3 bar map sensors. For the most part, the car drives normal under normal acceleration, but under hard acceleration when shifting, and I’m getting a flutter in the turbo again. I also noticed if I accelerate past 5500 RPMs, I get a pretty heavy misfire. I’m assuming it’s hitting a rev limiter cut out so I’m wondering should I be shifting sooner or do I need to look at having the rev limiter raised? I have to get out of it for it the clear up once it starts miss firing
Click to expand...
Misfire at rev limiter? Or just a severe departure from the smooth run up? Doesn’t it just cut fuel?
I raised my limit in HP tuners. Didn’t matter. I still hit it.
Ideal shift is before you get there for sure.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
And I’ve never hit a rev limiter on mine, boost tends to give up on the stock k04 turbo before then.

Do you have HPT to be able to post a tune and log? If ZZP didn’t lock it.
 
SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
JBINTX said:
Misfire at rev limiter? Or just a severe departure from the smooth run up? Doesn’t it just cut fuel?
I raised my limit in HP tuners. Didn’t matter. I still hit it.
Ideal shift is before you get there for sure.
Click to expand...
It feels like a miss. Because when you shift it is still popping
 
SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Took the car back out. Paid more attention this time. It runs hard up to about 4850-4900rpm. Then it starts breaking up and popping. Looks like I’m going to need an HP tuner to data log and make changes. Didn’t do it with the stock tune. I was able to run it to 5800 no problem before
 
SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Okay so Ghostknife was kind enough to come over and lend me his HO tuner. We were able to read the ECU no problem. It shows a different vin than what the donor had? Not sure why. I got the ECU from ZZP and gave them the donor vin. We went ahead and tried to write a tune I got from jbintx. I paid for the credits on the vin it showed to write the tune. When I got to write it, it give an unspecified vehicle and won’t write. What am I doing wrong
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
You don't want to just write a tune from some other ECM into yours. You read the file in your ECM, and then license/credit your ECM with the VIN number in that ECM. You then make the changes from the "new" file to your existing read file, using the new file as a compare file in HPT. You can do this manually, change by change, or HPT will make all of the changes at once. I do it manually to help understand the difference. You then write the edited calibration back to your ECM.

At the very least you have probably lost your credits. At the worst you can brick the ECM, although I don't understand all of the in's and outs of writing complete vs calibration or what happens when you try and write a random tune even if it matches the vehicle it's replacing. There are a lot of tables that HPT reads that you can't actually access and if there are minute changes in those other tables, the ECM freaks out.
 
SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Well that’s what I did. I paid for a license for the tune I got sent to me. (Live and learn). I went back like you said. Compared the two tunes and modified mine to match. After paying for 2 more credits I was able to write it back and it lives. Took it for a very short drive (raining). Ran it up to redline with no issues. It’s going to be nice tomorrow so I’ll take it out again
 
Stretch2126

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
After my car was tuned I had a coil pack go out and it did similar stuff. Ran fine until I gave it full throttle and it would break up around 4-4.5k
 
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