We are hoping the kit you use to install the F40 in place of the F35 also works with our subframe.Gotta bring it up, I see one option not listed there
New Item - Tubular Subframe and Rear Suspension for Manual Goblins
- Thread starter Adam
- Start date
Metal Mech
Well-Known Member
Don’t worry you can sell it to me if it doesn’t fitGotta bring it up, I see one option not listed there
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
How many pre-orders have been made? Many builders were talking about wanting this tube subframe for various reasons; looks, weight or suspension geometry improvement. If you want to play you have to pay - performance costs money. Without those required pre-orders its possible this may not happen, as the business has to be there to support special projects like this one. Curious if the 20 orders have been placed?
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
The answer has to be yes. You can ask me how I know, but I know for sure that AT LEAST 19 have been placed.How many pre-orders have been made? Many builders were talking about wanting this tube subframe for various reasons; looks, weight or suspension geometry improvement. If you want to play you have to pay - performance costs money. Without those required pre-orders its possible this may not happen, as the business has to be there to support special projects like this one. Curious if the 20 orders have been placed?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
That's great news! Gives Lonny confidence to keep developing performance improvements for the community that the builders are asking for. The only reason I asked was there were only a few who had stated a commitment to purchase, there were also a few who were getting sticker shock. Can't wait to see what the 'known' autoX performance improvement is over the stock Cobalt setup from those who are consistently at the track.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Question tho: how does the rear swaybar attach to this new subframe? Will mounts need to be fabricated? Granted, the geometry is better than the Cobalt subframe and suspension, but I have to assume a rear swaybar may still be needed to help balance the handling.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Front only swaybar will induce understeer. I would go with the front and rear swaybars and size them for a neutral balance - in coordination with the proper spring rates and suspension geometry adjustments to include roll centers. The swaybar sizes will vary with the setup, but the bar diameter should be as thin as possible to keep 'independence' of the suspension - if too thick (stiff) then individual corner suspension compliance is lost. Getting the right balance is the hardest part to optimize a Goblin's handling potential.
Metal Mech
Well-Known Member
I plan to buy one eventually. Just budget doesn’t allow at the moment when I still need stage 2
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
It goes against all racing stuff, but I think the goblin in general goes against all racing stuff I use the 225/475 springs up front and they seem to work well. I use the 10” shock with it, but it is possible to squeeze them on the 9” shocks Df supplies. I turn down the dampening adjuster for road use and turn it up for autocross and it seems to work very well.
I use the 225/475 springs up front and they seem to work well. I use the 10” shock with it, but it is possible to squeeze them on the 9” shocks Df supplies. I turn down the dampening adjuster for road use and turn it up for autocross and it seems to work very well.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
That's the right direction. Always use the lightest springs you can get away with - that won't bottom out. Swaybar sized to reduce body roll. Balanced to the rear springs and swaybar to stay out of understeer - and more importantly oversteer (bad thing in a Goblin due weight distribution). The lighter springs help the front tires stay in contact with the road surface, especially over bumps. Too stiff springs allow the front tires to 'skip' over uneven obstacles reducing steering and braking effectiveness.