Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"
- Thread starter Robinjo
- Start date
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Yes and no. I had bought a ‘new’ pan about a year ago as my original was cracked and sweating oil. It still had a piece in it but I got the tip out before installing it.
This new dipstick was so tight I had to gently tap it with a block and hammer.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Finally fixed my speedometer not working issue. Ultimately it was the VSS connector that had a break right at the point where the wire enters the back of the connector. I guess I could have taken the connector off and fixed the wire internally but buying a new connector was much easier.
Now, back to focusing on things to pretty Drago up for the car show in August.
Full Thread here:
dfkitcar.com
Car Show
Now, back to focusing on things to pretty Drago up for the car show in August.
Full Thread here:
GM Low Speed Data Wires - Power Steering Issue with Speedo Loss
What all does the GM Low Speed data wires control? Perhaps the speedometer, Ambient Air reading on the dash and some aspects of the Power Steering? Edit: adding context. I keep randomly loosing the speedometer, outside temperature reading, mileage and get 'Power Steering' on the dash display...
Car Show
Carbon bar covers -ordered 5" wide carbon tape- Repaint valve cover
Goblin light for valve cover - have an idea here- Paint muffler or new setup
- Wrap hood
- New grill screen
- New windscreen
- Lean windscreen
- Racing seat, harnesses and bar (maybe)
- Touch up powder coat chips - Ongoing but Mazda Soul Red Crystal touch up paint is perfect color
- Full detail
Oil leak from dipstick tube- bought a new tube from FB Market.Data loss issue- FixedClutch pedal will break soon -New to me unit installed- Pusher fan and duct install
Extend brake wires -Done!
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
I've been on three drives now and the Power Steering issue with loss of Speedometer hasn't come back. I'm giving it a bit more before calling it completely fixed but it's looking good.
On a side note, my Cruise Control has come back and not given me issue since doing this. It had been hit or miss if it would work previously. This may have been an early indication that the wires from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) were starting to come loose. I had this issue for a bit and tested all the sensors, they all seemed ok. It may have had enough connection to keep the speedometer working ok, but not enough for the cruise. So, if your having troubles with the cruise control setup being intermittent and can't find anything with the switches/sensors then I would check into the VSS wires/setup.
Car Show (August 10th)
On a side note, my Cruise Control has come back and not given me issue since doing this. It had been hit or miss if it would work previously. This may have been an early indication that the wires from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) were starting to come loose. I had this issue for a bit and tested all the sensors, they all seemed ok. It may have had enough connection to keep the speedometer working ok, but not enough for the cruise. So, if your having troubles with the cruise control setup being intermittent and can't find anything with the switches/sensors then I would check into the VSS wires/setup.
Car Show (August 10th)
- Repaint valve cover
- Paint muffler or new setup
- Wrap hood
- New grill screen
- New windscreen
- Lean windscreen
- Racing seat, harnesses and bar (maybe)
- Touch up powder coat chips - Ongoing but Mazda Soul Red Crystal touch up paint is perfect color
- Full detail
- Pusher fan and duct install
- Connect AFR to A/C wire
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
The Cruise would kick off pretty quickly. With it working multiple times in a row is a huge difference than previously. I'm hoping it's fixed because I wasn't looking forward to tracking that one down. I looked over the wiring schematics and it was a little confusing.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Drove to Gatlinburg, TN 7/02. Had about a 4 hour stop at a supplier to break up the ride but overall not that bad. Only issue I had was getting sunburnt because I didn't wear sunblock. Overall, a little under 300 miles and could have gone further on the stock seats. Also took some photos, a few of a covered bridge and then a bear that was in a truck in our resort area.
Bridge
Bear vs Truck
Car Show (August 10th)
Bridge
Bear vs Truck
Car Show (August 10th)
- Repaint valve cover
- Paint muffler or new setup
- Wrap hood
- New grill screen
- New windscreen
- Lean windscreen
- Racing seat, harnesses and bar (maybe)
- Touch up powder coat chips - Ongoing but Mazda Soul Red Crystal touch up paint is perfect color
- Full detail
- Pusher fan and duct install
- Connect AFR to A/C wire
- Clean Laminova cores
Last edited:
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
'Da Bears!
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Getting ready for the Rocket City Octane car show on Saturday August 10th. I did fix the front grill and lean back the windshield a little bit. I may lean it a bit more but it looks much better. I never liked the straight up/down that the stock one sits at. Also, cut some 'nostrils' right behind the radiator to help let some heat out. It made a difference, so the holes may need to get bigger. Sill need to paint the muffler and touch up the valve cover then do a full detail plus clean the seats. Also need to start tracking the items to get ready for GoblinFest 2024 in October. Had a great time last year so really want to get back up to see the crew again.
Car Show (August 10th)
Car Show (August 10th)
- Repaint valve cover
- Paint muffler or new setup
New grill screenLean windscreen- Touch up powder coat chips - Ongoing but Mazda Soul Red Crystal touch up paint is perfect color
- Full detail
- TBD
- Pusher fan and duct install
- Connect AFR to A/C wire
- Clean Laminova cores
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Put the bracket in a vise and bend the 5 tabs back. I did heat it a bit so the powder coating wouldn’t crack. I used a angle gage to get them all close.
I also had to slot the holes in the windscreen.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Sanded and painted the muffler last night. Sanding all the rusty spots took some time, even using a random orbital sander. Wire wheel on the joints and areas the sander couldn’t get and last was hand sanding places the others couldn’t reach. I may need to polish the header now. Tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Car Show (August 10th)
Car Show (August 10th)
- Repaint valve cover
- Paint muffler or new setup -done
- Full detail
- Re-spray lca’s
- TBD
- Pusher fan and duct install
- Connect AFR to A/C wire
- Clean Laminova cores
Last edited:
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Going to a carshow? The header could be polished up, but it will still 'rainbow' again with more heat cycles. Keep in mind the more the header heat cycles, the deeper into the metal the color will reside.
Chrome polish and a buffer wheel - one small enough to fit the gaps between the pipes - could get you there for a nice shiney finish. But it would take a lot of work to remove all of the color.
Chrome polish and a buffer wheel - one small enough to fit the gaps between the pipes - could get you there for a nice shiney finish. But it would take a lot of work to remove all of the color.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Car Show was pretty good, had about 150 vehicles at it. Some really nice cars, of all types were present. I didn't win anything but they really didn't have a class for kit cars or anything similar.
One thing I wanted to do is get the rear able to adjust camber. It was mention (I think by @Gtstorey to slot the knuckles instead of the damper's knuckle bracket. Any particular reason for this?
So with that, the steps to get ready for Goblin Fest need to happen:
GoblinFest Items (October 4th-6th)
One thing I wanted to do is get the rear able to adjust camber. It was mention (I think by @Gtstorey to slot the knuckles instead of the damper's knuckle bracket. Any particular reason for this?
So with that, the steps to get ready for Goblin Fest need to happen:
GoblinFest Items (October 4th-6th)
New tires- Alignment
- Make rear camber adjustable
- Cut and tint new screen
- SC Coupler/Oil change
- Engine oil change
- Clean laminova cores/new O-rings
- Pusher fan and duct install
- Connect AFR to A/C wire
Last edited:
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
That's exactly the brackets name at Mazda, so yeah. The bracket on the damper is called the knuckle bracket. I'll have to look at how much movement I need.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Finally got around to doing the supercharger coupler and oil change. I'd been dreading it as the last time I went to do the job, the four 6mm Allen head bolts holding the s/c to the manifold wanted to strip. This time, I gently tapped on my extension to set the Allen socket into the bolt better and all four came loose, so proceeded forward as such:
Removed the two 10mm bolts holding the 'Supercharged" plastic plate over the fuel rail.
Removed the s/c pulley belt
Unplugged the sensor by the s/c snout
Unplugged the brake booster vacuum hose
Removed the intake tube with a 7mm socket
Removed the throttle body with four 10mm bolts
Pulley the s/c out of the bay and onto a table to work.
From here was the actual servicing of the s/c and replacing the coupler. You could do this on the vehicle but the oil coming out of the s/c snout smells like a mixture of wet dogs and rotten eggs which you could smell as soon as opening the 3/16 inch Allen filler port plug. So, to the table for me so I could keep the oil out of my garage and brake clean everything thoroughly. There were about ten to twelve 10mm bolts to remove from the snout and gently tapped the snout off the main s/c body. Once I did this and the snout came loose the old coupler just fell out. To service this part I did follow ZZP's supercharger coupler video a bit. Cleaned off the old GM gasket material and brake cleaned the whole unit thoroughly. To install the new coupler I liberally applied the new s/c oil into the three posts on both the rotor gear and the snout gear along with in the holes of the new coupler. I also used the Permatex water pump and thermostat gasket material that came with the ZZP servicing kit and torqued the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. and then did a 18 ft-lbs pass. To reinstall everything I did the opposite of removal except for:
Torqued the s/c to the manifold: snug, 10 ft-lbs pass and then a 18 ft-lbs pass
Torqued the four throttle body 10mm bolts to 10 ft-lbs. The torque should be 89 in-lbs (7.5 ft-lbs) but I do not have one of those torque wrenches. That's the lowest my torque wrench will go.
Tomorrow I can pour in the new oil since the gasket material needs 24-hours to cure and then this task will not be needed for a long bit. My s/c was starting to make the 'rocks in a bag' sound mentioned in the ZZP video, so this was needed. Also, the old oil was black and stinky (mention previously). The new oil didn't stink like the old oil. Those procrastinating on this, it's easier than you think so get after it.
GoblinFest Items (October 4th-6th)
Removed the two 10mm bolts holding the 'Supercharged" plastic plate over the fuel rail.
Removed the s/c pulley belt
Unplugged the sensor by the s/c snout
Unplugged the brake booster vacuum hose
Removed the intake tube with a 7mm socket
Removed the throttle body with four 10mm bolts
Pulley the s/c out of the bay and onto a table to work.
From here was the actual servicing of the s/c and replacing the coupler. You could do this on the vehicle but the oil coming out of the s/c snout smells like a mixture of wet dogs and rotten eggs which you could smell as soon as opening the 3/16 inch Allen filler port plug. So, to the table for me so I could keep the oil out of my garage and brake clean everything thoroughly. There were about ten to twelve 10mm bolts to remove from the snout and gently tapped the snout off the main s/c body. Once I did this and the snout came loose the old coupler just fell out. To service this part I did follow ZZP's supercharger coupler video a bit. Cleaned off the old GM gasket material and brake cleaned the whole unit thoroughly. To install the new coupler I liberally applied the new s/c oil into the three posts on both the rotor gear and the snout gear along with in the holes of the new coupler. I also used the Permatex water pump and thermostat gasket material that came with the ZZP servicing kit and torqued the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. and then did a 18 ft-lbs pass. To reinstall everything I did the opposite of removal except for:
Torqued the s/c to the manifold: snug, 10 ft-lbs pass and then a 18 ft-lbs pass
Torqued the four throttle body 10mm bolts to 10 ft-lbs. The torque should be 89 in-lbs (7.5 ft-lbs) but I do not have one of those torque wrenches. That's the lowest my torque wrench will go.
Tomorrow I can pour in the new oil since the gasket material needs 24-hours to cure and then this task will not be needed for a long bit. My s/c was starting to make the 'rocks in a bag' sound mentioned in the ZZP video, so this was needed. Also, the old oil was black and stinky (mention previously). The new oil didn't stink like the old oil. Those procrastinating on this, it's easier than you think so get after it.
GoblinFest Items (October 4th-6th)
- Alignment
- Make rear camber adjustable
- Cut and tint new screen
SC Coupler/Oil change- Engine oil change - right before we go.
- Clean laminova cores/new O-rings
- Flush brake/clutch fluid
- Check all torque items
- Pusher fan and duct install
- Connect AFR to A/C wire
Last edited:
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Good preventative maintenance, your SC will thank you with longer service. One question, did you replace the 6mm bolts with the questionable heads while they were out? Because you know they will have to come out again sometime, it's an inevitably.
One question, did you replace the 6mm bolts with the questionable heads while they were out? Because you know they will have to come out again sometime, it's an inevitably.