New Item - Tubular Subframe and Rear Suspension for Manual Goblins

[Lonny]

Gotta bring it up, I see one option not listed there

We are hoping the kit you use to install the F40 in place of the F35 also works with our subframe.

 

[Cnixon160]

We finished the front and rear trans mounts for the F23 and F35 transmissions. We mocked up one side to test fitment, suspension travel, and camber adjustment.

We have a few more weld jigs to fabricate and need to have the trans mounts laser cut. The Bosch intercooler pump has to be relocated, so we will need to source the hardware for the mounting kit.
View attachment 46428View attachment 46429

@Lonny is it possible to have a small rear bar added between the uprights? My intercooler is mounted across there and it would probably look nicer if you added it in production than if I added it

 

[Brett]

 

[RobC76]

Any Updates available?
Thanks

 

[Metal Mech]

Gotta bring it up, I see one option not listed there

Don’t worry you can sell it to me if it doesn’t fit

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

How many pre-orders have been made? Many builders were talking about wanting this tube subframe for various reasons; looks, weight or suspension geometry improvement. If you want to play you have to pay - performance costs money. Without those required pre-orders its possible this may not happen, as the business has to be there to support special projects like this one. Curious if the 20 orders have been placed?

 

[comegetjoe]

How many pre-orders have been made? Many builders were talking about wanting this tube subframe for various reasons; looks, weight or suspension geometry improvement. If you want to play you have to pay - performance costs money. Without those required pre-orders its possible this may not happen, as the business has to be there to support special projects like this one. Curious if the 20 orders have been placed?

The answer has to be yes. You can ask me how I know, but I know for sure that AT LEAST 19 have been placed.

 

[Rttoys]

From my understanding, yes the 20 were placed. I would suspect more and I believe you can still place the order, because the 20 was the goal to just put it in production.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

That's great news! Gives Lonny confidence to keep developing performance improvements for the community that the builders are asking for. The only reason I asked was there were only a few who had stated a commitment to purchase, there were also a few who were getting sticker shock. Can't wait to see what the 'known' autoX performance improvement is over the stock Cobalt setup from those who are consistently at the track.

 

[Rttoys]

I can’t wait to try it out.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Question tho: how does the rear swaybar attach to this new subframe? Will mounts need to be fabricated? Granted, the geometry is better than the Cobalt subframe and suspension, but I have to assume a rear swaybar may still be needed to help balance the handling.

 

[Ross]

If you are going to fabricate a sway bar mount, do it up front.
Randy Pobst was wondering why I setup my goblin with a rear sway bar, as a front sway bar is a better option, or run front and rear sway bars, with the front sway bar as the bigger bar.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Front only swaybar will induce understeer. I would go with the front and rear swaybars and size them for a neutral balance - in coordination with the proper spring rates and suspension geometry adjustments to include roll centers. The swaybar sizes will vary with the setup, but the bar diameter should be as thin as possible to keep 'independence' of the suspension - if too thick (stiff) then individual corner suspension compliance is lost. Getting the right balance is the hardest part to optimize a Goblin's handling potential.

 

[Rttoys]

I’d like to do both ft and rear. I’ll probably run with out a rear sway bar at first, then add a rear, then front.

 

[Metal Mech]

I plan to buy one eventually. Just budget doesn’t allow at the moment when I still need stage 2

 

[Ross]

Getting to neutral balance is a main objective. Maybe Randy Pobst didn't realize how rear heavy our goblins are.

 

[Meansol]

I'm not an suspension expert but from my "feel" the front springs are too stiff. I put lighter springs, helps with the bad roads, but now a sway bar feels needed upfront to help with maintaining turn in speed.

 

[Rttoys]

It goes against all racing stuff, but I think the goblin in general goes against all racing stuff I use the 225/475 springs up front and they seem to work well. I use the 10” shock with it, but it is possible to squeeze them on the 9” shocks Df supplies. I turn down the dampening adjuster for road use and turn it up for autocross and it seems to work very well.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

That's the right direction. Always use the lightest springs you can get away with - that won't bottom out. Swaybar sized to reduce body roll. Balanced to the rear springs and swaybar to stay out of understeer - and more importantly oversteer (bad thing in a Goblin due weight distribution). The lighter springs help the front tires stay in contact with the road surface, especially over bumps. Too stiff springs allow the front tires to 'skip' over uneven obstacles reducing steering and braking effectiveness.

 

[RobC76]

Has anybody received a subframe yet?