Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Not much done today, got the hoses to the brake res installed and managed to pull the parking brake and accessories from the donor, feeling confident in getting the donor hauled off now. Waiting on df to ship more parts is a hard wait, and also waiting on stuff at powder coating. Im not going to rivet the tunnel cap, will figure something else out to make it easier to remove it if I ever need to
Rivnuts or just self tapping machine screws (if you're careful lol)
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
I opted to weld in M4 nuts into the inside of the tunnel (after opening the holes up a bit) as opposed to rivnuts. I chose that route due to the thickness of the rivnut flange that would add to the overall width of the tunnel (even though not by much). I didn't want to have trouble getting the tunnel cover on if the tunnel was suddenly too wide with the slight added thickness, maybe not a big concern though, I'm not perfectly sure...
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Putting the shifter on and the tunnel cap cover on, nothing bolting the cap on yet but the shifter is bolted on. The shifter goes through all the ranges except for L and I cant figure out how to fix it. I recorded a video to provide clarity:
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Is the pattern P-R-N-D-3-2-1 on the shifter? If so, that's 7 positions and I see in your video, when shifting by hand, that you are only clicking into 6 positions. Or is the shifter pattern P-R-N-D-L2-L1 to correspond to the positions you are shifting into by hand?
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Is the pattern P-R-N-D-3-2-1 on the shifter? If so, that's 7 positions and I see in your video, when shifting by hand, that you are only clicking into 6 positions. Or is the shifter pattern P-R-N-D-L2-L1 to correspond to the positions you are shifting into by hand?
The pattern is P-R-N-D-I-L on the shifter
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
After looking at the video again, it might be the angle the shift cable is relative to the shifter arm, not having enough 'pull' to get into the forward most gear selection. Or the adjustment on the shifter cable may need to be adjusted to have more motion in the forward most gear?
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
After looking at the video again, it might be the angle the shift cable is relative to the shifter arm, not having enough 'pull' to get into the forward most gear selection. Or the adjustment on the shifter cable may need to be adjusted to have more motion in the forward most gear?
It needs like 1/8th inch more of motion to reach L but I can't figure out how to adjust it. The shifter is physically pulled all the way in this case, so the adjustments need to be the cable
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
There is adjustment where the cable goes into that black portion. The off white collar thingy lifts out and you can adjust the depth that the end of the shifter cable goes into the black portion. It's grooved in there, sort of.
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
So time is coming up for me to get rid of the donor shell but I am confused on how to do that. I need to register the kit car and I believe that requires me to keep the donor title? I am going through the Montana process. I don't know if the scrappers will want the title or if they can have it or how that process works? If someone could guide and fill me in that'd be swell
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Keep it if you can, but, the Montana process does not require the title.
 
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Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
See if they will accept a copy of the title? If not, then make your carcass not a car. Sawzall can make quick work of that by cutting it into 2 or more large pieces - then it's just scrap metal.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
You can cut up the carcass and it’s no longer a car. Then you don’t need the title. At least that’s how it works here.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Some states require the yard only to have a copy of the title, which is the case here in Illinois. When I went the Montana route, I ended up not needing it anyway.
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Today is my birthday. My mental health has reached a state where I am almost unable to work. None the less, I sent out the seat mounts and coolant bracket to be powder coated. I have the front and rear control arms and subframe at powder coating as well. The current lead time is 2~3 weeks as of today. Do I use the donor steering knuckles in the rear or is DF specific ones supplied? Asking because if so I have to clean them up as well. I turned in the donor tags and will be getting the donor hauled off soon. I contacted DF and requested stage 3 invoice and I am expecting more stage 2 stuff to arrive this week or next. I took time today to assemble the rear coilovers using the supplied photo gallery as a guide so that I can feel like I accomplished something today.
Guide: https://photos.app.goo.gl/aMx82XNptYFiRceaA
Mine:
47043

47044


On another note, once I get the MCO I might be able to fast track getting the kitcar registered in montana despite not being complete since my cousin is a state trooper and he will be doing the inspection.

Edit: working on the second coilover, the nylok nut won't go down and is just spinning the silver metal shaft unlike the other one where it didn't give no fuss. What do?

Edit: Nevermind found out that I have to use a hex key while turning the nut
 
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Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Happy birthday. Your just going through a work slump, things will get better. Focus on the good things - like the donor is gone and probably made your spouse happier. Hang in there!
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
You do use the Cobalt knuckles in the rear. Yes, use an Allen wrench in the strut shaft to pin it in place while tightening the locknut on the damper shafts.
 
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