Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Ark :D]

Ross could open his own Amazon Store ... let's say he calls it "Shiny Nut Gadgets".

 

[Ross]

Shiney nut gadget #2:

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Transmission oil pump and filter?

 

[Ross]

Yes. The original Cobalt owner had a leaky seal on the half shaft, which left oil up the side of the engine, and I didn't like how the oil looked. So I decided it was cheaper to put an oil filter on it, as an oil change doesn't really get all the oil out.

 

[Ross]

This transmission had an oil change a few days ago, (using redline MT-90) and this is the color of the filtered oil going back into the transmission.
I wonder if there was some graphite additive at some point in its' life, or if this is normal?

 

[RobC76]

Ross,
Where are you pulling and returning the oil. I considered adding a cooler and a filter as well. Have my case split so I was trying to figure out best place to return oil. Love the idea by the way!

 

[Ross]

I am pulling oil from the drain plug hole.
I bought Banjo Bolt M18x1.5 with 12mm Hose Barb Fittings
as this is the same thread on the drain plug and fill plug.

Gear Oil Pump 12VDC Electric Waster Oil Pump	$34.96
Banjo Bolt M18x1.5 12mm Banjo Bolt Hose Barb Fittings	13.99
Derale 25708 Remote Filter Mount Kit	$22.99
FRAM Extra Guard PH8A Oil Filter	$4.48
Barb Fittings 3/8 Inch Barb × 1/2 Inch NPT, Brass Air	$7.99
Tax	6.33		90.74

Later I added the Visual Flow Indicator G1/4 Inch $14.19

 

[RobC76]

I saved pic so I could blow it up and I was just going to post that I found it. Thanks for sharing banjo bolt size. Does it just run with key on or do you have a separate switch? Assume the filter housing is lower than the return so that it doesn’t gravity drain back to transmission. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Ross]

The drain hole line runs horizontally to the gear pump, so that should always be full of oil. After the pump, the pressurized oil flows up to the upside down filter, then to visual flow indicator, then back to the transmission fill hole. So, no the filter housing isn't lower than the return line. It stays filled with oil (as it is upside down), the line out from the filter will drain back, as will the visual flow indicator. I had to refill the transmission, after I turned on the pump, filled the filter and lines. Probably holds an extra quart now... but the oil in the transmission is at the original height.

I plan on tapping into the wire that runs the intercooler pump, and adding a new relay. Grab some 12V+ from the starter, run it thru a fuse, then the new relay, then off to the transmission oil pump. The intercooler pump has a 10 second delay from when the engine starts before both the electric pumps start up.

 

[Rauq]

I'm not sure if there's a magnet inside the F35 like there is in the F23, but assuming there is and the case has never been split, there's probably a good bit of junk on that magnet. It's also usually near the bottom of the fluid level, so I wonder if you're pulling the junk off with that setup?

 

[Ross]

My F35 had a magnet on the drain plug. I have cleaned it twice. I probably should add a magnet to the side of the oil filter.

 

[Ross]

I couldn't find a relay base for the GM Tyco fuses that the rest of the car has. Online stores all seem to have the relays with the + pattern, not the 4 corners relays.
Since I have a dead BMS, I decided to make my own, and cut a fuse base out of the middle of it.

I added a fuse holder to the bottom, soldered the wires on, and filled it with hot glue. Splash of black paint.

This circuit will run the oil pump (8A), and the seat heaters (another 8A).

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I thought I was bad at cobbling scrounged parts together to make something that cannot be bought (or doesn't exist)!!!

 

[Ross]

I would have preferred to buy a relay base, but sometimes your own cobbled up engineering and creativity works too.
I soldered into the pink wire at C2 to get the PCM to trigger the SC pump's relay, and now the transmission oil pump's relay too.

I removed the 12V+ jump post from the rear fusebox, and put an electrical ring crimp connector on the yellow wire to feed the relay 12V+ power.
The 12V- post on the side of the transmission mount also got a ring crimp connector.
The relay is bolted to a hole I found on the plastic fusebox base.
Now the relay clicks 10 seconds after engine start, the oil pump starts, and I ran a wire into the transmission tunnel for the heated seats too.