ToothMagician's Full Cage Country Goblin #493 - '06 SS LSJ Turbo donor

[ToothMagician]

Can use the PWM signal for a boost control solenoid or 3 port boost contol solenoid?

 

[Rauq]

If you're asking if the boost control solenoid originally used for the supercharger bypass valve actuator can be used for boost control on a turbo, I think the answer is no, at least not easily. While it is a PWM solenoid, with the supercharger on, the only things it does are limit boost in 1st gear (exactly how I'm not sure), and cut boost to protect the engine. You might be able to apply some of that functionality with the turbo but it's not going to do for you what a non-OEM boost controller/solenoid setup will do.

 

[ToothMagician]

Last few questions before I fill with fluids and try to start for the first time.

1. Has anyone mounted the ZZP option B reservoir? Pics of the mounting bracket would be clutch. I'm considering asking if DF will sell me another reservoir mounting bracket and hardware.

2. The option B tank was connected to the top of the stock intercooler via a small bung on the top (pic 1). The diagram (pic 2) shows this part should be going to the side of the intake where the dip stick is mounted (pic 3). I found this thread that says to drill a new fitting into the side of the intake. What gives?

3. Can the coolant level sensor easily be removed from the reservoir and placed into a new one?

4. What are all these sensors for? They don't seem to belong anywhere. Leftover from the turbo swap? Leave, Cap, or Delete?

5. I'm considering my options for cooling: I have a ZZP intercooler that was hooked up in tandem with the stock intercooler from the SS. That's a lot of cooling. Would the DF heat exchanger from the front be enough cooling? Should I add the two in tandem like the original set-up? Should I mount just the ZZP intercooler behind the head rests? Mounting bracket options? I like Chad and Kaleb's #49 mounting design. Show me/ talk to me about your favorite turbo cooling setups and what pitfalls to avoid.

Thanks all for the feedback!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The 2 upper ones are the MAP sensors. They get mounted into the intake manifold - I don't have a LSJ so can't get you any photos where they are installed.

This is the intake manifold MAP for a LNF:

The bottom one looks like the ambient temperature sensor. It can get installed anywhere there is open air, preferably away from engine bay heat.

 

[Robinjo]

1. And 2. I have not. I didn’t want to tap into my intake manifold. So that stopped me.

3. I think the reservoir plug goes directly into the tank so it would gush fluid out if removed. I also think the second one I bought from RockAuto when I thought about doing an Option B even came with the sensor already in.

4. I think DS is right about the first two. The third plug is the Ambient Sensor plug. Just mount it anywhere.

5. The DF unit is adequate for street driving. For track I shall defer to the guys that have done more than hard parking and street driving to answer.

 

[ToothMagician]

1. And 2. I have not. I didn’t want to tap into my intake manifold. So that stopped me.

3. I think the reservoir plug goes directly into the tank so it would gush fluid out if removed. I also think the second one I bought from RockAuto when I thought about doing an Option B even came with the sensor already in.

4. I think DS is right about the first two. The third plug is the Ambient Sensor plug. Just mount it anywhere.

5. The DF unit is adequate for street driving. For track I shall defer to the guys that have done more than hard parking and street driving to answer.

Seems like I got a decision to make on 1 and 2...

For 3, rock auto doesn't have the lsj 2.0 reservoir. But they do have the 2.2 one. Are they interchangeable? They look exactly the same and I can't imagine GM designed a brand new one for the LSJ, yeah?

I'll just zip tie the ambient temp sensor out to the side somewhere out of view. Ill try and find a spot for the one I think is for the intake manifold but one of the MAP sensors was for the supercharger I think, should I wait and experiment when I get it started, lol?

Thanks @desertSasqwatch for making an identification and @Robinjo for hitting all the points!

 

[Rttoys]

1. If I used that reservoir, I would buy a second mount from Df so it would be symmetrical

3. I believe it’s molded to the res. Not really removable.

4. 2 map sensors and the ambient air sensor

5. The Df supplied intercooler is sufficient for any normal driving. I also have the zzp upgraded cooler and may install it behind the seats, but I haven’t done it yet. I’d get the car running and see if you want to upgrade cooling later.

 

[Ross]

4. On the LSJ, the left MAP sensor measures the intake pressure,
and the right MAP sensor measures the ambient air pressure.
That last sensor with the green on it, is the ambient air temperature sensor.

 

[Sluggonaut]

1. I bought a new coolant overflow tank for $20 on Rock Auto right before they went unavailable. I only did that because someone gave me $50 for my Option B tank and the mount. I bought a second driver-side mount from DF to mount it. I used the driver's side because I am not using an engine cover and it allows easier access to the oil dipstick.

2. That's the same question I had. It can just vent to atmosphere and does not need to recirculate. I have yet to have anything come out of that tube after 2 seasons.

Here is a pic during my build that shows it installed using the driver-side mount and the tube running straight down:

 

[ToothMagician]

My left side intake manifold looks different. I'll admit I cut off the bracket that holds the right one, so I'll probably just tuck them in between the engine and fuse box. I found a place to put the ambient air temp sensor in the old mounting hole on the fuse box. That's a pristine looking engine @Ross, I'm jealous man, wow!

 

[ToothMagician]

1. I bought a new coolant overflow tank for $20 on Rock Auto right before they went unavailable. I only did that because someone gave me $50 for my Option B tank and the mount. I bought a second driver-side mount from DF to mount it. I used the driver's side because I am not using an engine cover and it allows easier access to the oil dipstick.

2. That's the same question I had. It can just vent to atmosphere and does not need to recirculate. I have yet to have anything come out of that tube after 2 seasons.

Here is a pic during my build that shows it installed using the driver-side mount and the tube running straight down:
View attachment 45983

@Sluggonaut, so you just have 2 primary reservoirs and use the second as the option B tank? Do you think the non-SS reservoir is the same or similar enough to work?

What are you using for cooling, the stock DF Heat exchanger?

 

[Sluggonaut]

@Sluggonaut, so you just have 2 primary reservoirs and use the second as the option B tank? Do you think the non-SS reservoir is the same or similar enough to work?

What are you using for cooling, the stock DF Heat exchanger?

Yes, I am using a primary reservoir as my Option B tank. I don't think there is anything special about the tank, so any coolant reservoir should work.

I am using the stock DF heat exchanger setup with NACA ducts and no fan.

 

[ToothMagician]

Yes, I am using a primary reservoir as my Option B tank. I don't think there is anything special about the tank, so any coolant reservoir should work.

I am using the stock DF heat exchanger setup with NACA ducts and no fan.

Is that good enough for auto cross and spirited driving? Are you monitoring coolant temps by chance?

 

[Sluggonaut]

I haven't auto-crossed, but with spirited street driving at 12 PSI my IAT2 temps were fine. I haven't logged since getting my boost controller configured and running 22 PSI. That's on the list for things to do once driving season starts and it's warm enough for the tires to stick.

The last log I have was when I was running ~ 12 PSI on my K04, with IAT at 93 my IAT2 was 100:

 

[ToothMagician]

I haven't auto-crossed, but with spirited street driving at 12 PSI my IAT2 temps were fine. I haven't logged since getting my boost controller configured and running 22 PSI. That's on the list for things to do once driving season starts and it's warm enough for the tires to stick.

The last log I have was when I was running ~ 12 PSI on my K04, with IAT at 93 my IAT2 was 100:

View attachment 45985

Solid, Thanks this gives me good info to go on

 

[Rauq]

In my opinion/experience the DF-supplied heat exchanger removes about as much heat from the intercooler loop as the LSJ intake manifold intercooler can put into it. That is to say, if your IATs are excessive, more heat exchanger isn't going to get you very far, definitely not as far as more heat exchanger + more intercooler (by swapping to a Saab intake manifold and a bigger A2W or A2A intercooler).

Keep in mind, too, the Option B reservoir doesn't add much to the effective volume of circulating fluid in the intercooler loop, at least not as originally designed. I don't know that it or an additional coolant reservoir has fittings sized or oriented to be a flow-through reservoir, but a flow-through reservoir of some design would give you the opportunity to ice down the circuit if that's something you're looking for.

 

[ToothMagician]

Ok went to start today and im not getting fuel from the fuel pump, any troubleshooting tips?

 

[Robinjo]

Check to make sure you have the relay in the fuse block in the right slots. There are 6 slots in the block and 4 pins on the relay, so 2 ways it can go in.

 

[ToothMagician]

Check to make sure you have the relay in the fuse block in the right slots. There are 6 slots in the block and 4 pins on the relay, so 2 ways it can go in.

Good suggestion, but I'm not getting the whirrrrrrrrrr sound when trying to jump the pump with the wire. It only makes a clicking sound. No fuel in the line when I checked

 

[Robinjo]

Bad ground to the pump?