tpms / key fob box importance?

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

I am missing this box (I have one on order from rock auto)

I have a no crank no start.

No power to starter relay.

No power to purple starter wire.

Before I start checking grounds and GM high speed lan connections does anyone know if not having this box will result in a no crank no start due to some anti theft lockout?

I also have installed a different ignition cylinder and key and used the relearning steps to remove the lock icon from the dash.

Also connected HP tuners and there are no error codes that I can detect.

EDIT: DF did my harness so I am pretty confident that there is nothing out of place there

Cheers!!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

TPMS/key fob box is just a receiver and should not prevent a start. You have something else going on, like bad connector or ground connection. Electrical gremlins are never easy.

 

[Ross]

No power to starter relay is a problem. Any power to the fuse that powers the starter relay? Is power getting to the starter motor straight from the battery, then going to the rear fusebox?

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

I never did a clutch switch relearn after getting a new one...I have a feeling that might be the case. I have an HP tuners mpvi2 that came with the donor, I *think* I can use that to do the relearn?!? However when scanning, code P080A Clutch position not learned, was not seen

I really hope that I dont have a problem with the used ignition switch I got on ebay.

When I turn the key to the car on the dashboard lights do not come on, only the text display. and the fuel gauge isnt working at all with the key switched to run.

I have measured continuity between the battery and all of the frame and engine grounds on the car. Even ran an extra ground wire between the engine ground the the rear drivers side frame ground.

I have my radiator ground connected directly to the battery, don't think it will make much of a difference.

I have +12.17 volts across the positive lug of the starter and the rear driver side frame ground lug with the key turned to RUN position
I have +12.12 volts across the positive fuse box screw on lug and the rear driver side frame ground lug with the key turned to RUN position
30 amp crank fuse has 0 volts with key turned to RUN position

next step is to take off the fuse box and see if there are any bent or misaligned pins on the connectors. and make sure that the connectors needed for starter fuse and relay are still intact. I know for sure that the fuse box has power and is grounded because my fuel pump fuse has 12 volts and the fuel pump is working correctly. maybe a pin pressed out of the connector when i screwed the fuse box lid down.

also going to verify that the ground on the crank relay is good. have already swapped out multiple other relays with no luck.
crank fuse ground is good, 1 other pin had 12 volts, 1 pin had 9 volts, and 1 pin had 0 volts
still 0 volts on crank fuse.

 

[Ark :D]

Any chance you have the brake position sensor plugged in where the clutch position sensor belongs?

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

Any chance you have the brake position sensor plugged in where the clutch position sensor belongs?

I tried flipping them and nothing changed with the starter, I was very careful to match the correct wire colors to the brake and clutch.

 

[Lonny]

With your volt meter set on continuity check for continuity from one of the tail light ground wires that I rolled up near the fuse box to the frame.

 

[Lonny]

I would not try looking that deep for a problem yet. Let's look at all of the external possibilities first.
When reworking the harness there are only a few things that we change that will keep it from starting.
We usually find it is a connector not seated or a ground not connected.
Call me when you get a free moment.
214-334-0232

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

With your volt meter set on continuity check for continuity from one of the tail light ground wires that I rolled up near the fuse box to the frame.

both tail lights and the 3rd brake light grounds are good when tested across the rear driver side ground lug

 

[Gtstorey]

Late model wiring diagrams show crank fuse as hot all the time, tied directly to the X8/B+ post.

There seems to be an error in the wire color tying to X8. It’s shown as red elsewhere.

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

I found 1 blown fuse and 1 missing fuse. I now have 12 volts at the crank fuse and crank relay but starter relay does not click when trying to start. and now I have narrowed it down to what I think was the previous owner deleting VATS using HP tuners, then when I relearned my new ignition+key the VATS was not happy...going to wait until my HP tuners file arrives from ZZP and I will see how that works.

 

[Gtstorey]

Are you getting voltage at x2 c1 when you try and start it?

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

Are you getting voltage at x2 c1 when you try and start it?

can you help me find where that is please?

BCMx2 got that one (blue connector top of BCM)
ill open it up and check tomorrow. thanks.

 

[Gtstorey]

Fuse box x2

 

[Gtstorey]

You can start by checking it at the starter relay. Remove the relay. One pin should be hot all the time. One should have continuity with the purple at the starter solenoid. One should have continuity to ground. The last should have voltage when you try and start it.

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

99.9% sure that my issue is now because I did not relearn the new clutch switch. going to try the amazon tech2win emulator tool on wednesday

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

problem is now solved!!!

I relearned the clutch switch (which def needed to be done) with tech2 emulator tool and still no crank.

it turns out that the new ignition I bought off of ebay had a bad part on it, part #23215459 I swapped this out for one off of my old ignition and bam. she crank and run now.