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I think that was the reading with the charger on the batteries.

Mine broke on the arm side and not the pedal side. I think it was lateral stress from a lot of romping that made the plastic fail. I figured it would take quite a bit to affect a 1/4" piece of steel so I used it and wondered why I printed one out of plastic to begin with. The 3D printed one...

I used some 1-1/2"x1/4" bar stock I had lying around from a previous project. I think the shortest you can get is 3' from the home improvement stores (Menards/Lowes/Home Depot). I think I cut a piece just short of 3". The printed one is in mm but if you convert it to inches, this is what you get...

When my donor battery finally bit the dust earlier this year, it was reading 12.4 fully charged. The new one was over 13, so my experience aligns with Gtstorey's comment.

My 3d printed pedal extender broke after 2 years of use, I suggest just making one out of bar stock, it will last much longer.

I used Craftcloud for my prints and was very happy with the results.

A ProCharger F-series can fix those numbers for you, but then you'd need a new sticker.

When wrapping, it's a lot easier to color-match the side panels and hood. It's also not permanent so you can always change it up.

If it weren't for coolant hoses and electrical, dropping the engine would be a decent experience.

Yes, noticeable difference at speeds over 60mph.

I agree, I wouldn't add a manual controller in between, just run spring pressure to ensure the turbo is working correctly. If so, you can start troubleshooting the controller/lines as you add them back in.

They took pictures of your Goblin to show their friends what a cool car they saw. They took pictures of those other cars to show their friends how ridiculous/absurd those builds were, which I think is the goal of that tour - absurdities.

I already replaced the horn, but I do keep tripping over my footwell cover that's just lying around in the corner of the garage. lol

Great, so you're saying I need to finally do something with my footwell cover. lol

Same, I've dented both sides by the feet from lazy jack stand placement. If I had access to a lift I'd consider this upgrade because the floor always pops back into place when I move my feet around while driving and it's very annoying.

It does during the summer, especially on the Michigan side.

I can't install my seatbelts first because the side belts have to feed from the inside of the seat, so the seat has to be somewhat in place to bolt the belts down making it hard to access the seatbelt bolts. Getting the seats in place is never the issue for me, it's the contortion required to...

The seats/seat belts are a tie with the subframe for biggest pain for me during off-season tear-down work.

This is what I thought it was supposed to be.

I remember the Conti's were considered super sticky (relatively speaking) compared to other touring tires, but not nearly as sticky as the dedicated summer/performance tires like the ones you mentioned. So if the site says 340 that makes sense to what I remember when buying them. I also remember...