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Good to know, i'll add an auxiliary light instead.

Is there any way to get the 'brake' light to go off when the hand brake is disengaged? I'm hoping to wire it up to the bcm and it'll work, but I doubt its that simple. Will it never go off due to the ABS delete? I'm in Claifornia so im trying to make it as compliant as possible before going to...

Update: the car is back together just a few small things to button up. The elbow was leaking, I removed the extra seal and put the remaining one on the feed tube firmly. I reinstalled the elbow, but it got angled downward when I put the battery box in and wasn't sitting perpendicular to the feed...

Yup had an extra seal and that pushed off the new one. Had to remove it from the elbow and reinstall it on the tube. Had to push it down to get it to seal. so it's working currently, just need to bleed it now. And fingers crossed it drives

Dude you had it spot on, I thought I was gonna lose it but I chilled out for a little while. I got my borescope and went out there and it's leaking from the plastic elbow into the transmission housing. No fix yet but looks like I took the sub frame off for extra practice. I will check this out...

I can only hope man

I like this idea, ima do this for sure I'm right there with you man Yeah, I know where you're talking about. Its hard to get a good look with the oil cooler in the way. Have a borescope as well, im gonna hook it all up with the everything out of the car and test it out when it's easier to...

It's leaking at the underside of the trans bell housing where it meets up with the engine. And not a little. Like a lot. (About 1 drop every 5 seconds) and is a 15 in. Puddle at this point. No where else is wet or leaking. Also replaced the little elbow and feed tube.

Soooo.. Everything back together, TOB was bench bled, clutch pedal felt good...then It pissed clutch fluid out of the trans casing again.. im feeling pretty defeated, but i will not quit. I've got the sub frame off again and I'm gonna drop the engine with the trans this time and just take it to...

Thanks @Desert Sasqwatch and @comegetjoe for the fast answers. Apparently my stupidity is on a galactic scale today. The silver looking dowels were actually the spacers for between the trans and D-side trans mount. The dowels were in the engine block side all along. Destroyed the spacers getting...

...They're the spacers for the trans mount to frame... just figured it out

I have the spacer, everything lines up, but I can't tighten the bellhousing because the dowel pins are in the way

Does one seat inside the other? Should I expand the one on the engine side?

Yeah, I corrected it with a Drexel. Still won't go on either side. Transmission and engine casing appear to be the same size

HELP! Transmission won't mate up due to dowel pins. What am I missing? do I have 2 sets of pins on here?

The drawing helps, so I was wrong about the air gap but the principle still makes sense. I have to be honest I hadn't thought of that... man.. hahaha. I tend to overlook the simple things Thank you guys for all the help! I think I understand how it works and what's happening. I'll keep yall...

I have no clue. Would you explain it to me. As I understand it, the space between the TOB and the pressure plate is the "air gap" I figured that the clutch got thinner the TOB would need to extend that much more to engage... when you compress the TOB there's a cylinder on the inside that doesn't...

Both sides of the clutch plate. My theory is: as the clutch plate wore down it exceeded the tolerances of the TOB without the spacer and blew the seal. Either way, new clutch and flywheel. Was looking at southbend but saw they have a chance to grenade themselves. I'm looking at clutchmasters...

Saving me again, just ran to the garage only to find it laying on the floor...

Here's the blown seal from the TOB. Any chance you have that ZZP spacer laying around still? Not sure I need it yet, but I should in the next 2 weeks or so..