V2 aaronc7's Goblin V2 (#6) - 2015 Audi A3 1.8 DQ250

[aaronc7]

Hey all, picked up donor car last week. I'm already deviating from what's known by getting this car, but I think it should work out just fine or very minor tweaks. It's a 2015 Audi A3 FWD 1.8T. It's basically just like a base Golf 1.8T FWD, except it has the DQ250 transmission with gear ratios similar to the GTI. I was browsing coparts for months. Initially wanted a GTI, but many in "runs and drives" condition were going for $5K+ easy, and these Audis seemed to fly under the radar a bit more.

Rear end damage, the thing runs and drives just fine, I'll be starting to tear it down here shortly, but it's still terribly hot and humid in Florida, so progress will be slow. I've got time though, I'm right now in batch #2, but potentially could get into #1, if anyone drops out or delays their order.

Going to do by best to document the progress I make and anything I figure out regarding the electronics/tuning side of things to get it working without having to keep a bunch of random modules and stuff connected that aren't needed or desired. My daily is a 2017 Audi S3 with a hybrid turbo and such, so I'm pretty familiar with the platform in general and I've always wanted to do a kit car and enjoy the build process and figuring out and tinkering with things. My longtime project is/was a 2003 C5 Z06, but looks like I will be selling that to make space for this.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Treading new ground and paving the way!

 

[aaronc7]

Well, I officially got bumped up into the first batch and will be running chassis #6!

I was able to flash the ECU and TCU and disable the immobilizer on both before taking it apart, which will hopefully save me some hassle down the road (and have to open up the ECU), and avoid having to have a bunch of random modules connected and whatnot.

Finally got some time to start the teardown. Just need to disconnect some more things and she'll be ready to come up. Need to run down a hoist or buy a cheap used one or something.

 

[aaronc7]

Received AC delete bracket/pulley and a 2.0 HPFP/vacuum pump to swap over eventually.

Still debating on is20 or is38 turbo for the 1.8. As of right now leaning towards staying DI only for simplicity sake. Leaning towards IS38 but I'm not 100% how much ethanol I'll be able to run with DI only. I don't have a lot of E85 around here, but with flex fuel it's nice to have the option.

 

[MeltedSolid]

Received AC delete bracket/pulley and a 2.0 HPFP/vacuum pump to swap over eventually.

Still debating on is20 or is38 turbo for the 1.8. As of right now leaning towards staying DI only for simplicity sake. Leaning towards IS38 but I'm not 100% how much ethanol I'll be able to run with DI only. I don't have a lot of E85 around here, but with flex fuel it's nice to have the option.

Before I got my MPI working but after I installed my flex fuel sensor I tried running E85 just to see what I could do. It wasn't very much power, about 360nm peak, and at the time on 91 with my IS20 I was peaking closer to 480nm. I think these logs are from when I got it dialed in:

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

I was running into the limit of HPFP as much as I was running into the limit of injector pulsewidth.

 

[Blizzard25]

Before I got my MPI working but after I installed my flex fuel sensor I tried running E85 just to see what I could do. It wasn't very much power, about 360nm peak, and at the time on 91 with my IS20 I was peaking closer to 480nm. I think these logs are from when I got it dialed in:

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

I was running into the limit of HPFP as much as I was running into the limit of injector pulsewidth.

Any reason why you set the ignition tables so low? ECM looks like it's working overtime to correct those back up and even then the output is pretty low. Table values look like 7-8 degrees at WOT in the upper ranges, final corrected value 11-12, which would be on the low end for pump gas not even ethanol

 

[MeltedSolid]

Any reason why you set the ignition tables so low? ECM looks like it's working overtime to correct those back up and even then the output is pretty low. Table values look like 7-8 degrees at WOT in the upper ranges, final corrected value 11-12, which would be on the low end for pump gas not even ethanol

tbh this was long enough ago I don't remember. I don't think I was worried about timing yet because I was about to switch to MPI anyways. My current tune is closer to 16 degrees at the top, and I know even that's conservative.

EDIT: Oh yea, and most likely the ECM correction is actually the ethanol timing offset table I would have entered. I think I was probably using the stock timing table + ethanol offset at that time. Would make sense given it's a flat +4 deg the whole pull. I don't think our ECMs can correct timing in the positive direction.

 

[aaronc7]

Before I got my MPI working but after I installed my flex fuel sensor I tried running E85 just to see what I could do. It wasn't very much power, about 360nm peak, and at the time on 91 with my IS20 I was peaking closer to 480nm. I think these logs are from when I got it dialed in:

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

I was running into the limit of HPFP as much as I was running into the limit of injector pulsewidth.

this was with stock 1.8 HPFP or 2.0? I'm assuming 1.8 since that looks like a eurodyne log and it surely didn't have the tables to properly make the switch over.

I've mulled over a little more data and think I'll be plenty good for full is38 boost and maybe around E40-E50. Stock injectors/pw being the main limiting factor. I could swap injectors, but then at that point it would be silly to not just do MPI. Not even $100 in for the 2.0 HPFP swap route.

 

[MeltedSolid]

this was with stock 1.8 HPFP or 2.0? I'm assuming 1.8 since that looks like a eurodyne log and it surely didn't have the tables to properly make the switch over.

I've mulled over a little more data and think I'll be plenty good for full is38 boost and maybe around E40-E50. Stock injectors/pw being the main limiting factor. I could swap injectors, but then at that point it would be silly to not just do MPI. Not even $100 in for the 2.0 HPFP swap route.

1.8 hpfp. This was my own bin using Switchleg's flex fuel logic. I'm skeptical that you'll have much luck with higher E with the stock injectors. The 1.8's DI injectors are a good bit smaller than the 2.0's.

 

[aaronc7]

Got the motor out, no drama thankfully

Next, will continue to pull out the harnesses and other parts that will be needed. Following the guide, but will probably err on the side of caution and keep some extra stuff, just in case, being one of the first kits and all.

IS38 on the way.

Want to generally clean up the motor, take off the intake manifold and clean the intake valves while it's off. Might be a good idea to clean or replace the injectors, but fuel trims were great before I took it apart, so maybe don't mess with it.

Getting exciting now... how is the kit fabrication coming along @Adam?

 

[Blizzard25]

Got the motor out, no drama thankfully

Next, will continue to pull out the harnesses and other parts that will be needed. Following the guide, but will probably err on the side of caution and keep some extra stuff, just in case, being one of the first kits and all.

IS38 on the way.

Want to generally clean up the motor, take off the intake manifold and clean the intake valves while it's off. Might be a good idea to clean or replace the injectors, but fuel trims were great before I took it apart, so maybe don't mess with it.

Getting exciting now... how is the kit fabrication coming along @Adam?

View attachment 54145

View attachment 54146

Nice work! The "while it's off" trap....oh man can I relate. Good luck lol

When did you get sent the guide for stuff to keep? As of right now I'm sort of only discarding super obvious stuff, kind of nervous to throw anything out since I haven't gotten anything about what to keep yet.

 

[aaronc7]

Nice work! The "while it's off" trap....oh man can I relate. Good luck lol

When did you get sent the guide for stuff to keep? As of right now I'm sort of only discarding super obvious stuff, kind of nervous to throw anything out since I haven't gotten anything about what to keep yet.

I thought of a few more possible things to do while it's out . Possibly the water pump (failed/leaked on my S3) and the valvecover gasket (it appears to be leaking slightly in cyl 1/2?).

Yeah the guide is a little hidden and I only saw it linked once hidden away somewhere on here. It's under Knowledge Base tab on the main website page.

Will def be hanging onto some of the misc modules just in case....gateway, instrument cluster, brake?

Goblin V2 Donor Parts - DF Kit Car

Revision date: 10/21/2025 This list is subject to change as we continue to develop the production version of the Goblin V2. Parts You WILL Need Powertrain Parts

df-kit-car.helpscoutdocs.com

 

[Blizzard25]

I thought of a few more possible things to do while it's out . Possibly the water pump (failed/leaked on my S3) and the valvecover gasket (it appears to be leaking slightly in cyl 1/2?).

Yeah the guide is a little hidden and I only saw it linked once hidden away somewhere on here. It's under Knowledge Base tab on the main website page.

Will def be hanging onto some of the misc modules just in case....gateway, instrument cluster, brake?

Goblin V2 Donor Parts - DF Kit Car

Revision date: 10/21/2025 This list is subject to change as we continue to develop the production version of the Goblin V2. Parts You WILL Need Powertrain Parts

df-kit-car.helpscoutdocs.com

"All hoses"...well i hope they weren't reusing that AC line for anything that I just threw out.

 

[aaronc7]

Continuing the teardown, got the powertrain harness out, working on the main one.

Tried to install the 2.0 HPFP/vacuum pump but the pump was seized (yay ebay), so I ordered another one.

Ordered some random bolts so I can mount the AC compressor delete bracket.

Ordered a wavetrac LSD this morning as well.

I think I've settled on just cleaning the intake valves for now, for preventative maintenance.

 

[aaronc7]

Have most everything removed that I'll need. The main/body harness has been a bit of a pain. Going to email Adam and see if he has any insight into what electrical stuff from the rear of the car I'll actually need. All I can think of is taillights and LPFP wiring. Assuming I don't need anything else from the rear of the car, or doors/seats etc, that will save me a ton of hassle if I can just cut those wires off.

After I have everything off that I need, I may have something lined up to sell the car as-is and they can continue to part it out and sell off all the profitable bits. If that falls through, I suppose I'll just remove any of the big ticket items and try to sell those off and junk the rest of it. Not really wanting to make the part out into a project of its own.

Then I can move onto the fun stuff-- I now have a is38, wavetrac, HPFP and some other misc stuff ready to install on the motor.

 

[Blizzard25]

Have most everything removed that I'll need. The main/body harness has been a bit of a pain. Going to email Adam and see if he has any insight into what electrical stuff from the rear of the car I'll actually need. All I can think of is taillights and LPFP wiring. Assuming I don't need anything else from the rear of the car, or doors/seats etc, that will save me a ton of hassle if I can just cut those wires off.

After I have everything off that I need, I may have something lined up to sell the car as-is and they can continue to part it out and sell off all the profitable bits. If that falls through, I suppose I'll just remove any of the big ticket items and try to sell those off and junk the rest of it. Not really wanting to make the part out into a project of its own.

Then I can move onto the fun stuff-- I now have a is38, wavetrac, HPFP and some other misc stuff ready to install on the motor.

View attachment 54326

Taking apart the dash is making me feel dumb. I keep finding screws i missed, trying to pull off pieces, nothing happens then just setting it back down and doing something else

 

[Robinjo]

Unless you can label the wires very well for the harness reassembly, I would hold off on cutting them. For V1 the biggest wiring issues came directly from poor labelling on my part. Just trying to save you a future headache from my follies.

 

[aaronc7]

Unless you can label the wires very well for the harness reassembly, I would hold off on cutting them. For V1 the biggest wiring issues came directly from poor labelling on my part. Just trying to save you a future headache from my follies.

Oh yeah that is totally valid. I am more so trying to confirm that none of the wiring to any of the doors or seats etc will be required so then I will know it is safe to cut those branches off now. No cuts so far

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The driver's door switch wiring may be good to keep. Reason is some of the active circuits in the system don't turn off - at least for a period of time - until the door switch is sensed as open. Could be a source of current drain on the battery, so putting a momentary switch to tap on the way out of the car might not be a bad thing. Just a thought.

 

[Blizzard25]

The driver's door switch wiring may be good to keep. Reason is some of the active circuits in the system don't turn off - at least for a period of time - until the door switch is sensed as open. Could be a source of current drain on the battery, so putting a momentary switch to tap on the way out of the car might not be a bad thing. Just a thought.

You can simulate the same thing hands off with a pretty basic circuit. Cap -> transistor -> relay, ign is on cap is charged, ign off cap releases pulse to trans switching it on and energizing the relay. Timing is set by the value of the cap. 555 timer also does the job if you need something more controlled, but also overkill for a door switch. I don't think i'd remember to hit a momentary switch every time i flipped the key off