V1 Blue Man's City Goblin - 05 Base Donor

[Blue Man]

mind pointing to where its mentioned in the older video to extend the shifter wire?

was this meant for me?

if so, I will have to go back and look. I can’t remember which one it was but it was in the older videos and they tell you to extend the shifter wires about 20 inches I want to say. I’ll have to look and verify.

 

[Blue Man]

Okay, got it. It is the “DF goblin build guide part 13 – reorganizing the wire harness, part 3” on YouTube.

The video is cataloged and it is at the 6:13 mark. It is called “extending shifter wires”

hope that helps

 

[Joebob]

Along with connectong the brass barb fitting to the vent on the valve cover, you also need to plug or connect the EVAP port on the TB to plug that air leak as well.

Joe

 

[Blue Man]

Hey all,

I have then working on the car. I Have the brake lines installed and the suspension and I’ve been trying to bleed the brakes. But I can’t get the air out of the line.

So I turn the car on and was pressing the brake pedal and I can hear air escaping from the cylinder where the adapters come in from the reservoir. I have a picture showing what I’m talking about.

Is that normal? Do I have the wrong adapters? You can see the gaps there. Air is coming from there whenever I press the brake pedal.

Any ideas?

 

[Blue Man]

Oh, and I did have the retention bracket on when this was happening. I took the bracket off so I could work with those adapters more.

 

[Rttoys]

There should be a bracket that holds those tight. Let me look for a pic

 

[Rttoys]

Here ya go

 

[Blue Man]

Yeah, I had that bracket on but took it off right before I took that picture. But I can hear air coming from around those plugs when the engine is on. Or when I press the brake pedal.

Is that normal?

I can put my finger there and plug it a little bit and the airflow will stop.

 

[Blue Man]

But yours does look the same so that might just be the way it is?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Wait, there is air flowing thru the caps on top of the master cylinder? Or are you hearing a vacuum leak at the vacuum hose plugged into the brake booster? And this is just with the engine running and no one is pressing on the brake pedal?

The only way you could get air flowing into the caps on top of the master cylinder is if the cylinder piston seals are shot AND the vacuum diaphragm inside the booster has a leak pulling air (and probably fluid) into the booster.

 

[Blue Man]

No, there is air coming OUT of the spaces on the sides of the black adapters in my picture. You can feel it and hear it with the engine running.

The brakes work but they are “squishy”

 

[Blue Man]

I’m at a concert for my daughter. I’ll check again when I get home.

it just seems like nothing should be coming through those adapters if they are sealed properly, right?

this is all new to me so I’m sure I’m doing something wrong. Just trying to figure out what that is….

 

[Ross]

I think your master brake isn't working right. The adapters are for supplying brake fluid when your brake system has a leak. It is a no pressure system (gravity fed) on the resupply side of the master cylinder.

 

[Rttoys]

pull the master from the booster and see if there’s fluid in between there

 

[Joebob]

Are there o-rings on the adapters?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Are there o-rings on the adapters?

DOH! Simplest of questions - assumed they were installed correctly with previous questions from everyone before your question.

 

[Blue Man]

Yes put the o-rings on. Good question… I tend to forget those kind of things sometimes.

 

[Blue Man]

Putting the brake issue aside for a weekend I worked on the lights.

got the front lights and turn signals working no issues.

got the rear left light hooked up and there is a problem.

turn signal works fine. Reverse is fine. Taillight is fine. Brake is fine but…. When I release the brake pedal the brake light stays on. It will go off if I turn on the turn signal and then turn it off. Any ideas on that?

Also, if I have the turn signal on and press the brake, the brake light comes on and the turn signal stops (in the rear) until I release the brake.

The turn signal should override the brake, shouldn’t it? Not sure how to fix that.

both the brake and turn signal wire to the same taillight wire, right? So with the brake on there is a constant on signal. Is this how it should be or do I need to wire it differently?

Watching cars around town that use the red light for a signal, the turn signal flashes and the brake light is only seen on the other rear light. Shouldn’t this be the same?

 

[Rttoys]

This may help both issues or at least need to eliminate something; does the brake pedal fully retract? Put your hand on the pedal and pull up to see if it moves. If it’s not completely retracted the master will do goofy stuff (not bubbles in the hose though) and the brake lights will be weird. On that note, make sure the brake light switches are properly adjusted. Yours is older, so no recalibration needed, just needs to be set properly in their housings.

 

[Blue Man]

I pressed the brake pedal, and then I used my finger to press the switch back in to the fully seated position, and the brake light still did not turn off in the rear.

Also, I just hooked the automatic shifter back up and now when the left turn signal is on something in the shifter is flipping back-and-forth. It’s really strange. But if I press the brake pedal, it stops flipping back-and-forth.