V1 Cooling suggestion?

[David]

So I just bought a Goblin and trying to slove some issues. That seem that where never completed correctly. Need some suggestions on a way to execute the cooling system.

I have a attached the plumbing sketch of the way its piped up. Here is what my question are.

1. Is it the best way to have it plumber up?

2. Pump is not connected

3. There are two fans behind the DF heat exchanger that weren't wired

4. Option B tank is below the W/A cooler, should it be higher?

5. When does the pump turn on? I believe i read its always on. Was thinking if I install a sensor and wire it up to turn on at a certain temperature. While activating both fans. Or just leave the pump run as the OEM way, and wire the fans to turn on at a certain temperature.

6. Oil cooler is behind one of the fans. Meaning the order from how the air will hit them is. DF heat exchanger - Fan - oil cooler. Should the fan be behind both exchangers?

 

[Robinjo]

0. What platform are you working with? You signature has nothing, this helps us all know what you have or we’re just guessing. I’m guessing you have a LSJ so my responses are to that.
0.1 Do you have the GM, ZZP or OTTP dual pass kit? I would guess yes if you have an option B but want to confirm.
1. The best way is what cools best. I’d have to sketch what mine looks like. Exits from my dual pass go to my pump, pump pushes to Heat Exchanger (HX) 1, flows to HX 2 and then to the laminova cores.
2. Connect that pump. The system won’t do anything without it.
3. When you say two fans do you mean 1 on the radiator and one on the HX? If yes, those run different systems and are wired differently. If two on the HX, photos might help.
3.1 Does your Goblin have the NACA duct kit? These would be holes cut in the side nose area with those coming to the HX.
4. I think yes but do not have the OB kit. Default to someone who does.
5. The HX pump comes on about 10 seconds after key on. You can adjust that to 0 seconds after key on in HPTuners. It stays on constantly from there. This isn’t like the coolant system where the fan cones on as needed. Leave it as always on is my recommendation.
6. That sounds like a custom setup on the oil cooler. If it was mine, I’d have them all seperate.

 

[Gtstorey]

I think he has a lsj converted to turbo.
I would eliminate the oil cooler unless you have a lot of added enclosures around the engine or some other special circumstance to suggest you need it. My oil temp gauge indicates more of a concern with low oil temperatures than high.

Put details of your build in your signature.

 

[David]

0. What platform are you working with? You signature has nothing, this helps us all know what you have or we’re just guessing. I’m guessing you have a LSJ so my responses are to that.
Correct I should have mentioned that. I have a 2006 LSJ turbo
0.1 Do you have the GM, ZZP or OTTP dual pass kit? I would guess yes if you have an option B but want to confirm.
ZZP dual pass but not currently in use as the Laminova are damaged. So all 3 ports are capped.
1. The best way is what cools best. I’d have to sketch what mine looks like. Exits from my dual pass go to my pump, pump pushes to Heat Exchanger (HX) 1, flows to HX 2 and then to the laminova cores.
Like stated above I cant as Laminova are damaged. I have a water FrozenBoost type 16 water to air cooler.
2. Connect that pump. The system won’t do anything without it. FFigured system would be useless with pump. Also have the ZZP high flow pump.
3. When you say two fans do you mean 1 on the radiator and one on the HX? If yes, those run different systems and are wired differently. If two on the HX, photos might help. No, im not talking about the regular DF radiator at the front. That is independent and has its own fan. I have to side pods which have the following. Diverside has 1 DF HX with fan (Not wired), passenger side has 1DF HX with fan and an oil cooler. Fan is in between the HX and oil cooler.
3.1 Does your Goblin have the NACA duct kit? These would be holes cut in the side nose area with those coming to the HX. No
4. I think yes but do not have the OB kit. Default to someone who does. I will most likely get a better expansion tank and mount higher
5. The HX pump comes on about 10 seconds after key on. You can adjust that to 0 seconds after key on in HPTuners. It stays on constantly from there. This isn’t like the coolant system where the fan cones on as needed. Leave it as always on is my recommendation. Will check on HPTuners once I have everything tied up.
6. That sounds like a custom setup on the oil cooler. If it was mine, I’d have them all seperate.Yes it's a custom set up. I have a cooling adapter that runs two lines to the passenger side pod with a cooler.

Thank you in advance

 

[David]

I think he has a lsj converted to turbo.
I would eliminate the oil cooler unless you have a lot of added enclosures around the engine or some other special circumstance to suggest you need it. My oil temp gauge indicates more of a concern with low oil temperatures than high.

Put details of your build in your signature.

Will update now, very important if not everyone is running blind.
Yes have a lsj turbo swap
No enclosures everything is open as normal. Are you running a standalone oil temp sensor? I was thinking in adding a standalone pressure and temperature oil sensor. Whats should be the recommend oil temperature range on the LSJ?

 

[Ross]

I would eliminate the oil cooler radiator too. The LSJ has an oil-to-coolant heat exchanger that will do a much better job of controlling oil temperature... as the engine coolant is temperature regulated, and will bring oil up to the correct temperature (180F) rather that the ambient outside temperature (80F).

 

[David]

I would eliminate the oil cooler radiator too. The LSJ has an oil-to-coolant heat exchanger that will do a much better job of controlling oil temperature... as the engine coolant is temperature regulated, and will bring oil up to the correct temperature (180F) rather that the ambient outside temperature (80F).

So snice I have a coolant adapter running to the side pod cooler. I would have to go back to block stock cooler try and tie it back to the cooling system?


Also on another note, I will be hitting the track and not sure if oil temps will go to high. Will there be a way to may incorporate a thermostatic switch. So when I ride on the street its stays at normal temp but if it reaches to high on the track it will kick open?

Seems like if I hit the track and oil temps sky rocket then I will need the side pod oil cooler no?

 

[Ross]

So your LSJ doesn't use the stock oil to coolant heat exchanger?

If so, then yes, I would put it back to stock.

If track usage heats up your oil, then you need more heat exchanged on your engine coolant.... which will keep the oil at the right temp.

 

[David]

Figure it take a video and some pictures for a better reference.

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[David]

So your LSJ doesn't use the stock oil to coolant heat exchanger?
View attachment 54811

If so, then yes, I would put it back to stock.

If track usage heats up your oil, then you need more heat exchanged on your engine coolant.... which will keep the oil at the right temp.

Posted some pictures and uploaded a video. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[Ross]

A lot of builders added air-to-oil coolers... but that doesn't make it better. Back to stock is better. Add this back, direct bolt on.

.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

@Ross is correct that too cool engine oil can be a bad thing for high rpm engines. Oils are formulated to work in a specific temperature range - which coincidentally coincides with engine coolant temperatures or slightly above. If you live in the desert, then additional engine coolant heat exchange is desired to keep the overall system temperature in check, which in turn will help stabilize the engine oil temperature at the correct level. If you live in a more temperate area, you may not see the radiator fan even come on, as the cooling system in the Goblin is pretty efficient.

 

[David]

A lot of builders added air-to-oil coolers... but that doesn't make it better. Back to stock is better. Add this back, direct bolt on.

.View attachment 54819

Ok, that makes sense. So now I have to find an oem oil cooler and the two hoses. Which connect to the thermostat housing.

Will remove the oil cooler on driver side.

Now since the engine coolant system is set.

How do I set up the intercooler cooling side. The two exchanger and the fans?

 

[Ross]

You have the "frozen boost" intercooler, a pump and 2 side heat exchangers. I would plumb those 4 items in a circle, and add coolant. I also added a visual flow indicator.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

You can never have too much cooling for the A2W intercooler!

 

[David]

You have the "frozen boost" intercooler, a pump and 2 side heat exchangers. I would plumb those 4 items in a circle, and add coolant. I also added a visual flow indicator.

Correct that is how I have them I believe. Will look for an flow indicator. Would be nice if I can find one to display GPM on my display.
As for the fans how should I wire them? To turn on at a certain temperature?

 

[Ross]

The stock Cobalt used the radiator fan. If you wire it to that, it would occasionally turn on. I don't run a fan on them, as when I'm under boost, I am also moving fast enough to cool them.

 

[David]

The stock Cobalt used the radiator fan. If you wire it to that, it would occasionally turn on. I don't run a fan on them, as when I'm under boost, I am also moving fast enough to cool them.

Ok i just posted on my bluid thread about the radiator fan plug.

 

[David]

@Ross @Desert Sasqwatch what do you guys think about mounting a oil/water heat exchanger instead of the oem exchanger. My thought is I already have the stainless hoses and I like the extra room.

Im always trying to reinvent the wheel lol

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-82-140?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi9rJBhCYARIsALyPDtuXcLJgqvr6U3xl-xeZHDg5NNj-IOhAUvOVINR0kotFVHqQxxHMSbYaAif_EALw_wcB

 

[Dale E]

General questions for discussion and my old brain to clarify. And a few statements.

Yes, water to air oil coolers do work. I think you already have enough oil cooling that those are not necessary - only bling. Isn't the stock oil cooler a water to air one anyway? You already have, at least, the same or more oil cooler capacity than stock, plus with the longer lines you have more volume and the oil flow through the lines is also cooling a bit. Leave it like it is or tear it all apart and redo - your choice. Consider relocation of left pod oil cooler so it doesn't get the heat from the water to air fan blowing on it?

You seem to have three cooling systems on your Goblin. Normal radiator up front for engine cooling - adequate. The left pod oil cooler for oil - should be adequate. And three water to air coolers for the turbo/charge system? Two side pods and the one on top of the engine. That should be adequate. Oil has a peak temperature to be efficient. For racing a Revcon brand cools the best, but is not a good overall daily oil.

You mentioned that the cores in the old supercharger cooling system were bad?? Are the cores still in the housing? Would it be a benefit to the volume of forced induction to pull those out of the housing (they are a restriction now) -- or would it mess up the air flow turbulence and be no benefit?

My Stalker is cooled - to cold with the normal small radiator for it to be in it's efficient range sometimes.
You should strive for all systems to be at their best efficiency for best performance.