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V1 Dan's #495 build (2006 SS/SC)

TheAnesthetist
Got all the parts back from powdercoat today. The Illusion purple is such a great color.

While waiting on that stuff, I started assembling some of the other bits. Discovered that I have the less desirable wheel bearings with the giant wheel speed sensor. I ordered the shorter bearings and notched the connector with a hacksaw.

I'm excited to start putting this thing together!
 

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TheAnesthetist
Sprayed Rust-Oleum truck bed liner on the floor panels. I followed the instructions to the letter but as you can see, the results are really disappointing. Lovely. I'll probably end up covering it up with skateboard grip tape.
 

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G
You can go over it with black paint and even the color out if that is the problem.
I’ve used it the rustolem bed liner on many projects but it’s hard to rattle can anything that large and flat without being able to wet sand and buff.
 
Ark :D
Sprayed Rust-Oleum truck bed liner on the floor panels. I followed the instructions to the letter but as you can see, the results are really disappointing. Lovely. I'll probably end up covering it up with skateboard grip tape.

I did the same thing. It turned out a lot better than yours, but the first moment I dribbled a little brake fluid down there, it was ruined. I ripped the **** thing out and put a new (uncoated) floor in.
 
S
The only rattle can bed liner I've tried is the duplicolor bed armor. It's a pain to spray, nozzle just spits and it doesn't cover very well, but if you have all day to put a bunch of light coats on, it turns out pretty good.
 
Ghostknife
I would pull the floor pans and send them for powder coat if possible. then put the grip tape on. If you're not happy now I don't think you will be later.
 
Sluggonaut
I powder-coated mine but if I were to do it again I would spray-paint it. It's a floor, so it will get scuffed and scratched no matter how you finish it. Floor mats or grip tape and no one will notice anyway.
 
TheAnesthetist
Made good progress this weekend. Got the floor on with no drama. Wife and kids got in on the action. The kids loved using the riveter. Turns out I'm missing the baggie with the brake tees so I'll have to go back and finish that up.

Got the pedals and steering mounted. Ordered a new all-metal Dorman clutch master cylinder that is much more durable than the plastic OEM one.

With the brake fluid reservoir relocated, am I supposed to use the hard plastic tubing on the brass fittings? I just want to be sure I'm using the right tubing that will stand up to brake fluid. I've looked at a bunch of y'all's build logs and it appears to be the right one.
 

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Mahkoi
Maybe it was just a weird thing for me but don't get your face too close to the back of the harbor freight air riveter. Mine worked great until the last 3 rivets then I pulled the trigger and it blew the plastic cap off the back along with the cast metal section of the tool that the cap threads on to. It went past my face then hit the ceiling of the garage. Only thing I can figure is that they aren't joking around when they say max 90psi in the instruction manual. My shop air is usually around 130psi.

Edit: I'm not alone. This is what mine did
 
TheAnesthetist
Maybe it was just a weird thing for me but don't get your face too close to the back of the harbor freight air riveter. Mine worked great until the last 3 rivets then I pulled the trigger and it blew the plastic cap off the back along with the cast metal section of the tool that the cap threads on to. It went past my face then hit the ceiling of the garage. Only thing I can figure is that they aren't joking around when they say max 90psi in the instruction manual. My shop air is usually around 130psi.

Edit: I'm not alone. This is what mine did
Good to know. I did dial my compressor back to 90. I've never used a pneumatic riveter before and the thing made me pretty nervous. I read the manual and watched a couple YouTube how-to videos. Maybe I won't let the kids do anymore
 
TheAnesthetist
Trying to change out this clutch but having a hard time separating the trans from the engine. I removed the starter and every bolt I can find. Also removed the passenger side axle and IMS. Do both axles need to come out in order to drop the trans? Either that or there's some bolt I've missed.
 
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