V1 Doors?

[Brocker]

I'm getting older (73) and it's harder to get in and out of the car. I have the full cage. Two remedies suggest themselves...

1. Cut the front of the cage off from the rear roll bar to the windscreen. That would make it like the base frame? Has anyone done that?

2. Alternatively, has anyone cut the mid tube (the one you rest your arm on while driving), take out the inverted "V" supports, and hinged it to make it like a door? If the cutting was done, would the top of the cage take up the slack for strength? Inquiring minds want to know.....

PS. I still like to track cars. Got a turbo S which is fun but the Goblin is different fun. I haven't posted for a long while since my car was wrecked by a mechanic at a tuner shop. It's taken 1.5 years to get it rebuilt and we're still working with it.

 

[Gtstorey]

"If the cutting was done, would the top of the cage take up the slack for strength?"

It would be stronger than without the upper cage at all (original standard Goblin) but weaker than with the door bars welded in. Anything beyond that will be a guess, and will mostly depend on what causes the "need" for strength. If you are involved in an accident such as getting t-boned, you are going to wish you had door bars.

 

[Ross]

DF does make an easy entry frame.

This is the extended, easy entry, city frame. Each of those 3 options made the frame a little weaker, so this is the weakest frame DF offered.
I was able to spring this frame when doing hard stops from high speed, and Lonny was able to fix this issue by adding the front extra support bars that were used in the Goblin AT frame. I also converted this to a full cage frame, as some of the races were excluding an open frame in their events. Maybe just try the easy entry frame first, and see if that works for you, before you cut off the roll cage.

 

[Joebob]

What about cutting the part of the top hoop so you can step in line the city frame, add a cross bar on top to reinforce to hoop, and leave the front windshield frame. Weaker than full track frame, but stronger than city frame and stronger than easy entry frame. You can use the front hoop and added top bar to help entry and exit as well.

Joe

 

[Brocker]

Appreciated all of your answers. Thank you very much

 

[Joebob]

Another option that is much less drastic is to change the seats. I have vinyl covered seats on a sliding track. To get in and out, I slide the seat all the way to the back and when ready to drive, I pull it forward to diving position, this gives me maximum room and the vinyl surface allows easy to slide in and out. I see you have the seats set about 4" forward. That would open quite a bit of room to ease into the car without frame mods.

 

[gofast]

View attachment 47538

What about cutting the part of the top hoop so you can step in line the city frame, add a cross bar on top to reinforce to hoop, and leave the front windshield frame. Weaker than full track frame, but stronger than city frame and stronger than easy entry frame. You can use the front hoop and added top bar to help entry and exit as well.

Joe

I'm not far behind you at 69. Before cutting the hoop, mock up double top bars and practice getting in and out.. Although my car isn't done, I've gotten in and out of it many times. It would be much harder to get in and out of my car without the top bars as a grab point.

 

[jirwin]

If you do end up chopping the whole top off I'll buy it from you to convert mine to track spec

 

[Brocker]

Another option that is much less drastic is to change the seats. I have vinyl covered seats on a sliding track. To get in and out, I slide the seat all the way to the back and when ready to drive, I pull it forward to diving position, this gives me maximum room and the vinyl surface allows easy to slide in and out. I see you have the seats set about 4" forward. That would open quite a bit of room to ease into the car without frame mods.

View attachment 47540

Where did you get the seats and slider? How to install the base?

 

[Joebob]

Seats were used from facebook marketplace but are Sparco R100:

https://www.amazon.com/Sparco-Seat-R100-Vinyl-Blk/dp/B09PL7V2B1/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1S6SUILYOPKRK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fFAxoBSuo1Bx_yX2zQP_uTGfa6clkqU44CT2cZ3yMJk7sTeqog4baL8gwpW4j1LRl0VrRlo6rmQRp67OFlJwScnio7McO08KlgZaw_RZ-aI-Sgp-WFY7l8Ht37EC3z-gaV1QpPndZuixa2fSu7b22fKyg5O2f0_1Ww7VuuURHWKv7YB7ZX1PlBka2sKlGaNHgDpWFE6LSa2c_Y54hGOk0-wBen3IafzWByKxNJFKvV35KXorxt8Ib45ZcmK9vVAFpmRARClq5KukO4nlvRXF-VPD_wYxWyhHWNhJ-HUrsa8.LY4Pm7C59AQBUGtjhTk09yWy9-A7FoGfT6l3zNHr2oA&dib_tag=se&keywords=sparco+r100&qid=1717439997&s=automotive&sprefix=sparco+r100%2Cautomotive%2C85&sr=1-2

The seat sliders were also amazon.

The seat brackets were made by me from C channel and some 1/8"bar stock. Most people get the planted seat brackets and brace them for a tight fit.

 

[Brocker]

Another option that is much less drastic is to change the seats. I have vinyl covered seats on a sliding track. To get in and out, I slide the seat all the way to the back and when ready to drive, I pull it forward to diving position, this gives me maximum room and the vinyl surface allows easy to slide in and out. I see you have the seats set about 4" forward. That would open quite a bit of room to ease into the car without frame mods.

View attachment 47540

I followed your advice and put some sliders in on the seats. Much easier. I ordered the Cobalt seat brackets directly from Corbeau. A friend of mine helped me with adjusting the brackets so that they tilted up about 1.5 inches at the front. Makes the clutch easier to use as well. Thanks for the idea!