Frame #59 - Preparing for Texas Emissions

[Hellproof]

Good afternoon folks,

I've been lurking here on and off since about 2017, but never committed to my own build due to not really having the time or space. I just purchased frame #59 (2008 2.4L LE5 Auto/NA) this past weekend from a gentleman in Kansas. It was previously built by a gentleman and son team in Austin. Looks like they started in 2017 and completed and registered in 2020/2021 after Texas allowed kit cars to be registered again. I read over their build log the past month before committing to the purchase, but now that the initial registration period is over, it's time to try to make it Texas emission compliant to re-register.

I'll be taking the engine cover and hood off this weekend and really diving into it, but from what I can tell from the build, it's lacking a parking brake, the evap system, and cat, and without those I will fail inspection. I have a cheap OBD scanner and came up with P0443, P0449, and P0452 so I figure that's the extent of it.

These are my initial questions:

1. It looks like DF sells the parking brake kit, but I will need to source my own handle, cable, and cable guides. Are there any other items I may need to get from a junkyard, rockauto, etc. to install?

2. I am working on a part list to get the evap can, purge, and hoses. From the harness thinning/organizing videos, it looks like I may need the harnesses as well, correct? Any other hangups I need to be aware of?

3. I think I will need to install a cat and O2 bung before the DF muffler, but im not sure on the sizing. I've found different searches stating 2" and 2-1/4" would work on the 2.4L NA cobalt, but im not sure if there's anything else I need to be aware of before buying a cat and getting a muffler shop to cut and weld it in.

 

[Ross]

3. Measure your exhaust, any cat that size or bigger could be adapted to fit. You will probably need an O2 bung both before and after the cat.
2. You may be able to get the evap stuff from somebody who doesn't need it off their build.
1. DF will sell you the calipers & mounts, and I think your list of other parts is complete. Some builders have made their own cable guides.

 

[Rttoys]

1. You’ll need the park brake lever, tubes and cables

2. you’ll need the canister, purge, vent valves and lines. I think the sensor connectors are on the engine harness.

3. Joebob had DF make him a cat and muffler setup. Looks good and works.

 

[Rttoys]

Are you going to join us at autocross? Looks like you are in Houston.

 

[Hellproof]

Are you going to join us at autocross? Looks like you are in Houston.

Yep that's a goal of mine within the next year or so. Once I get everything fixed up and legal with this, i'll be out and about and getting used to it. I'm a complete novice in autocross but i'm interested. I'll need to upgrade the tires, rear suspension, etc. before taking it seriously.

At some point once ZZP has stock on their 2.4L turbos again, I'll get that added, and I've also been looking at the paddle shift kits a few companies make for automatics.

I'm in Pearland actually btw, I need to fix that.

 

[Joebob]

1. Like @Rttoys stated, you need the handle, tubes and cable. The handle and cables can be bought off Rockauto.com rather than destroying a junkyard interior. Tubes can be made from pex, or aluminum tube or junkyard but again is a lot of work in the summer. You will also have to open the center cover to mount the handle or use rivnuts from the top. That would be my preferred way as you already have the wiring, vacuum line and shift cable there. Just don't cut anything while fiddling around.

2. In Texas you can have one monitor not ready be it the cat or the EVAP. After over a year of driving I have never had the EVAP check and relied on the cat to pass. The canister should be easy to get from a junk yard and pluming it in to the vapor line on the tank is easy. the wiring is stripped clean like the videos, will be the hard part to put back in place. My suggestion is to forget it and accept that as the not ready monitor.

3. @Rttoys is right again (motif?) in that I had a cat welded up by DF. It was in the stock 2" exhaust and with 2 anti-foulers I got it to pass 1 time but more often would still fail. I have since welded up my own exhaust at 2.25 to include the stock cat and a more quiet muffler. I did have a California emission donor so the acceptance to pass might be greater than a federal emission car. The way DF makes the exhaust, I don't think there is room to cut and weld a cat in. I can let you borrow mine as it also has the before and after O2 bungs. I am in NW Houston. You will need to make sure you have the downstream O2 sensor and wiring.

4. If you have talk of adding a turbo, you will need to tune the engine for the boost. Tuned cars do not seem to have the emission issues that non tuned cars have. *shrug*

my "stock" catted exhaust

New quiet and catted exhaust

 

[Hellproof]

1. Like @Rttoys stated, you need the handle, tubes and cable. The handle and cables can be bought off Rockauto.com rather than destroying a junkyard interior. Tubes can be made from pex, or aluminum tube or junkyard but again is a lot of work in the summer. You will also have to open the center cover to mount the handle or use rivnuts from the top. That would be my preferred way as you already have the wiring, vacuum line and shift cable there. Just don't cut anything while fiddling around.

2. In Texas you can have one monitor not ready be it the cat or the EVAP. After over a year of driving I have never had the EVAP check and relied on the cat to pass. The canister should be easy to get from a junk yard and pluming it in to the vapor line on the tank is easy. the wiring is stripped clean like the videos, will be the hard part to put back in place. My suggestion is to forget it and accept that as the not ready monitor.

3. @Rttoys is right again (motif?) in that I had a cat welded up by DF. It was in the stock 2" exhaust and with 2 anti-foulers I got it to pass 1 time but more often would still fail. I have since welded up my own exhaust at 2.25 to include the stock cat and a more quiet muffler. I did have a California emission donor so the acceptance to pass might be greater than a federal emission car. The way DF makes the exhaust, I don't think there is room to cut and weld a cat in. I can let you borrow mine as it also has the before and after O2 bungs. I am in NW Houston. You will need to make sure you have the downstream O2 sensor and wiring.

4. If you have talk of adding a turbo, you will need to tune the engine for the boost. Tuned cars do not seem to have the emission issues that non tuned cars have. *shrug*

View attachment 41707
my "stock" catted exhaust

View attachment 41708
View attachment 41709
New quiet and catted exhaust

Thanks for the info @Joebob . I ordered and found a bunch of the components for everything including the evap canister, tubes, etc., but if it can pass without it being active, I'm fine with that and will return them. What did you do about the codes and check engine light though? I had P0443, P0449, and P0452 from the evap system being removed. My scanner was able to remove P0443 and P0449 I believe, but since P0452 was still there, I would automatically fail, correct?

Edit: also, thank you for offering your exhaust. I may need to take you up on it to get my inspection done unless I can get a custom one made this week. I did get the downstream O2 sensor and harness, but I'll need to take some time and find where to wire it in.

 

[Joebob]

I have my EVAP system in place so I do not have the codes. I have gotten the P420 Cat code and it sets the MIL light which would be a fail. Does your EVAP codes set the MIL light?

For the full EVAP hook up, you also need the purge solenoid that bolts next to the valve cover on the diver side and ports the canister vapors to the intake manifold above the TB. Forgot to mention that. If you got the canister and all the sensors, it might be easier to get the wiring settled. The wiring was part of the bundle with the fuel pump but that has probably been cleared away.

This should help.

 

[Joebob]

This too. We don't have 1 and 2 so I T'ed to the fill tube vent line

 

[Hellproof]

This definitely helps, thanks. I do have the MIL light from the P0452 still. I do have the purge solenoid and vent solenoid as well. I have a couple parts coming in the next day or two (parking brake kit, brake lines, etc) and I'll take a better look at everything again this evening.

 

[Hellproof]

This too. We don't have 1 and 2 so I T'ed to the fill tube vent line

View attachment 41725

Perfect, thank you!