V1 Ghostknife's #383 Track SS/SC

[Ghostknife]

Does your sound like mine? Great down low, but a very angry bumblebee up top?

haven’t been up top yet, last tune iteration was only up to 3500rpm. But the turbo spool…..

 

[Ghostknife]

Pulling the oil pan, I removed the 13mm bolts and the two 18mm bolts. Looks like I need to remove the I/C pump to get to bolts for that bracket? Will be drilling and tapping the oil pan for the oil return. I talked to AGP and they stated that the turbo is likely fine, just have to burn off the oil that did leak and should be good to go!

 

[Robinjo]

One of the alternator bolts holds the pan on too. Plus the two lower trans bolts (you got those).

 

[Ghostknife]

Wow what a booger to pull the pan. They used some serious goop to hold it on. Had to remove the belt, AC compressor, intercooler pump(needed replacing anyway). Also had to loosen the passenger side engine cradle bolts to lower it enough. The pan was being held by the crankshaft cap bolts. Then of course the dipstick was holding me out, found it was rusted through and leaking on me. So that will need replacing. I ordered the Cat V portworx replacement dipstick. Pan is draining and I will clean/tap it tomorrow at work.

 

[Robinjo]

I didn't have to remove the belt or the HX pump, only the lower bolt on the A/C compressor. But if you needed to replace the HX pump then you're already in there. Maybe i had to remove lower bracket bolts to the pump though (I can't recall).

I found it a lot easier to just drop the whole subframe to get to the pan as that section by the belt has just barely any clearance. More of a worry when reinstalling it and keeping the sealant in place. The oil dipstick is a real pita in that area.

 

[Ghostknife]

I didn't have to remove the belt or the HX pump, only the lower bolt on the A/C compressor. But if you needed to replace the HX pump then you're already in there. Maybe i had to remove lower bracket bolts to the pump though (I can't recall).

I found it a lot easier to just drop the whole subframe to get to the pan as that section by the belt has just barely any clearance. More of a worry when reinstalling it and keeping the sealant in place. The oil dipstick is a real pita in that area.

Yea I was so close! I got it now though. Drilled it this am and washed it all out. Just waiting on the dipstick to show and I can put it all back together. Need to keep tuning!

 

[Ghostknife]

Oil pan is back on, RTV is setting up. I’ll finish bolting it up tomorrow and re-install all the goodies I took off to get to it. The LSJ dipstick tube from Cat V is pretty nice. Will pick up some oil and fill er up tomorrow.

 

[Ghostknife]

All bolted back up. I have to stop on my way into work and get new oil and tomorrow if the weather holds out will be back to tuning

 

[Ghostknife]

Tuning has been going good. All low rpm tuning right now, but today should be the last iteration. I should be able to get into boost on the next drive! The car is driving great but my only concern is the short dump off the turbo is causing the exhaust fumes to come back into the cab. I don't mind smelling like exhaust but I know the wife will. That is something I will have to look into later down the road.

 

[Ghostknife]

 

[SmsDetroit]

If you go fast enough the fumes can’t catch you

 

[Rttoys]

Tuning has been going good. All low rpm tuning right now, but today should be the last iteration. I should be able to get into boost on the next drive! The car is driving great but my only concern is the short dump off the turbo is causing the exhaust fumes to come back into the cab. I don't mind smelling like exhaust but I know the wife will. That is something I will have to look into later down the road.

With the windshield on, the air behind the goblin comes forward. Some have added a “back glass” to stop the air from coming forward……..which makes the air in the cab a bit stagnant. It’s never ending.

 

[Robinjo]

With the windshield on, the air behind the goblin comes forward. Some have added a “back glass” to stop the air from coming forward……..which makes the air in the cab a bit stagnant. It’s never ending.

I used my old windscreen as a back glass when I cut a new front unit. It works.

 

[Mahkoi]

This will solve your issue

 

[Ghostknife]

Drove into work again and had another awesome sunrise. I just took the goblin home though since it looked like rain and I noticed that the battery light was on, and it seemed to have a high idle that wasn't there this morning when I came into work. Something I'll have to look at this weekend.

 

[Ghostknife]

With all the tuning I have been doing, everything has been low RPM to get the fueling in order thus far. When I did get it to higher RPMs (3250) the turbo felt a little "laggy" but just chocked it up to being a larger turbo. Still, something felt off being I heard the spool but didn't make more than 2-3PSI... Then it hit me like the boost should have, I never put the fire ring in the WGA. I will say, a bit embarrassing to admit but we all make mistakes. Oh well, next drive on Friday should be a different animal.

 

[Ghostknife]

Update! Well no update to the boost issue after fire ring install. Still hits 3ish psi and starts loading up/cutting out. The AEM TruBoost X that I installed shows no boost the whole time while the factory boost gauge by the steering wheel is reading. I ordered a manual boost controller to bypass the AEM to see if I get any difference in performance. I should also order a boost leak checker and mount to the turbo to check everything. I double checked the fittings from the turbo to the intake but maybe something else if off.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Have you tried plumbing your wastegate directly to a boost source to eliminate all potential boost control issues to see what you get? This way you should just get pressure based on the wastegate spring.

 

[Ghostknife]

Have you tried plumbing your wastegate directly to a boost source to eliminate all potential boost control issues to see what you get? This way you should just get pressure based on the wastegate spring.

Thats kind of what i was hoping to do with the manual boost controller. Run it wide open so it just runs of WGA spring. If im thinking correctly.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Right, I was just thinking of it from the standpoint of eliminating as many variables as possible. If it doesn't work right plumbed directly WG to boost source then it will never work right any other way, unless it's something intermittent going on which doesn't sound like the case so far.