V1 Lights + Fuel but no crank/no start

[TCSBuilds]

Hi Guys,

I'm officially stumped!! My donor is an 09 SS/TC and I'm ALMOST finished but for the life of me cant figure out why this car won't start. The donor started just fine without any issues, but after swapping over the powertrain, I've got no crank/no start.

I've screwed down all bolts on the fuse box, checked the BCM fuses and connections, checked all three grounds, tested swapping the brake and clutch connectors, replaced the starter (after breaking one of the bolts on the terminal on the original) and still nothing. I can confirm the butterfly opens with the accelerator, no VATS lights, fuse box post shows 12V, starter shows 12V. I've successfully jumped the fuel relay. I can hear the fuel pump when turning the key to the ON position, but afterwards, I can hear a click from the BCM & Fuse box area, all the lights go out and that's it. Thinking it was low voltage, I connected a jump pack and I get the same results.

I can't figure out why it isn't starting but everything else seems to be working just fine. All other electric components work without issue.

Plugging up the ODB2 scanner, I get codes P0238 (Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High) and P0452 (EVAP System Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low). There was previously a P0629 (Fuel Pump "A" Control Circuit High) but that has gone away.

ANY HELP, is greatly appreciated.

 

[Sebnuts]

Did you push in the clutch? LOL

 

[TCSBuilds]

Did you push in the clutch? LOL

........Yes, the clutch is pushed in. Any other bright ideas?

 

[Gtstorey]

It’s almost always a missing or bad ground. Beyond that we can throw out guesses bot you really need to start on one end and work your way up the chain. Are you getting 12v on the small purple wire on the starter when cranking?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Neutral safety switch connected at the transmission? The engine block is grounded to the frame - not just dependent upon the engine/transmission mounting bolts? The security coil on the ignition switch is plugged in - its the second connector on the ignition module?

 

[Ross]

Hi Guys,
I'm officially stumped!! ...

Plugging up the ODB2 scanner, I get codes P0238 (Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High) ...

That sounds like a bad TMap sensor, or bad wiring to the TMap... according to this thread.

 

[Joebob]

Can't the MAF and another connector on the engine harness be inadvertently plugged into the wrong place (coils, TB, ect)?

 

[Ross]

On the LSJ, these connectors can accidentally get swapped. Not sure if the LNF has the same issues.

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

agree with Ross, P0238 might be a bad 4 wire MAPT sensor in the cold air charge pipe.

I concur on checking grounds as well. make sure paint did not get on the threads of the ground.

Also check the ground wire that connects to the transmission. I think this is what Sasquatch said above, I upgraded mine to a beefier wire. I ran a big wire from the trans ground to the ground bolt on the driver side rear of the car.

Stole this image from Briann1177 on here.

another idea is unplug fuel pump and pull a spark plug and connect it to the coil and see if you have spark when you crank. dont zap yourself

 

[Gtstorey]

I don’t think any of the swapped sensors/connections being discussed will keep it from cranking. Maybe the P0238 code but I think that just means reduced power/boost mode.

 

[TCSBuilds]

Neutral safety switch connected at the transmission? The engine block is grounded to the frame - not just dependent upon the engine/transmission mounting bolts? The security coil on the ignition switch is plugged in - its the second connector on the ignition module?

1. I think?
2. Not that I'm aware of. I believe I'm currently dependent on the 3 ground points.
3. Yes
4. Yes

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

I just checked on my 2008 SS that the MAF and the COIL connectors are different

I was in the same position as you to be honest and after a month of failure to crank I installed a push button starter directly to the single wire connector (the wire is purple on an 2008 ss) on the starter and it worked fine.

 

[TCSBuilds]

I'm not hearing anything engaging in the fuse box when moving the clutch pedal so maybe it's got something todo with that. Attempting to jump the Crank relay was also unsuccessful. I'm leaning towards completely disassembling and reassembling the fuse box. I'm not sure what else to try. Would I still be getting power to things like the fuel pump if the ground was bad?

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

You can try turning the key to run and supplying the single small wire on the starter with 12 volts from the battery and see if it cranks, pull the connector and stick a stripped wire in, should crank. that might indicate something with the crank relay/crank relay fuse/ecu.

Verify the high amperage 12 volt starter wires are correct?
- big wire from battery positive
- wire with fusable link goes to alternator
- another big wire to power the fuse box
- small single wire from crank relay

 

[TCSBuilds]

You can try turning the key to run and supplying the single small wire on the starter with 12 volts from the battery and see if it cranks

Verify the high amperage 12 volt starter wires are correct?
- big wire from battery positive
- wire with fusable link goes to alternator
- another big wire to power the fuse box
- small single wire from ecu

I only have the Battery Positive Cable, Positive cable to fuse box and cable to the alternator. No small wire from the ECU anywhere that I can see.

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

single wire connector on the starter that connects the crank relay to the starter. This is how 2008 works I believe it should be the same on both year LNF engines. Here is a picture.

connector from crank relay to starter (or similar)

 

[TCSBuilds]

single wire connector on the starter that connects the crank relay to the starter. This is how 2008 works I believe it should be the same on both year LNF engines. Here is a picture.

connector from crank relay to starter (or similar)
View attachment 43461

I have that as well. It's not connected to the positive post as the others. It has it's own plug. I was going to unplug and reset it to see if that makes a difference as well.

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

yes it has its own plug for the starter solenoid, run 12 volts to that with the key on and it should crank if everything is good

 

[Gtstorey]

Run 12v to that and it should crank with 99% of things wrong. But it might not actually run.

 

[Scott #321]

I believe the lunch and brake light switch are the same and could be reversed.