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Manual Shifter Upgrade
David
Goblin Guru
- David Goblin Guru
Bringing this thread back from the dead. I just got a goblin and it has the group buy shifter. Im not impressed with it as there is play on the tunnel from just wiggling in neutral. Also the shift from 4-5 almost impossible. How is the DF shifter compared to the group buy? Seems like is nice and smooth. Im will be hitting the track so im looking from a nice crisp smooth shift.
Lndshrk Steve
Well-Known Member
- Lndshrk Steve Well-Known Member
I'm not familiar with the group buy shifter, but the DF shifter works great! Since all the parts are solidly mounted (engine, trans, shifter) it feels as if the shifter is on top of the gear box. Very adjustable and precise. I'm very happy with mine.
Dsteinhorst
Well-Known Member
- Dsteinhorst Well-Known Member
Check your shift cables as well. Some people have reported their proximity to the exhaust has caused internal damage and drag.
Rttoys
Smokin' Goblin
- Rttoys Smokin' Goblin
I added a brace from the tower/shifter to the seat mount area, to eliminate the tower play.
cable adjustment is key, but hitting 5th gear has always been difficult no matter which shifter I have used. All 3 shifters I have used have been a bit stiff on shifting, but I have a feeling it’s my transmission, not the shifters.
cable adjustment is key, but hitting 5th gear has always been difficult no matter which shifter I have used. All 3 shifters I have used have been a bit stiff on shifting, but I have a feeling it’s my transmission, not the shifters.
Rttoys
Smokin' Goblin
- Rttoys Smokin' Goblin
I’d say the DF shifter is the best, but haven’t been mad at either of the other 2.
stock shifter (mine was actually a zzp short throw)- looked cheap and out of place on a custom vehicle, but worked as designed.
group buy shifter once stabilized with a dead arm- looked nice and custom, complimenting the custom vehicle and functioned properly.
DF shifter- a bit more simple and looks like it belongs on a custom vehicle. Functions properly and it’s nice the tower cover is in 3 pieces so you can easily take it off to access wires if need be. Functions a little bit more solid than the group buy shifter.
all of them a little hard to find 5th gear.
stock shifter (mine was actually a zzp short throw)- looked cheap and out of place on a custom vehicle, but worked as designed.
group buy shifter once stabilized with a dead arm- looked nice and custom, complimenting the custom vehicle and functioned properly.
DF shifter- a bit more simple and looks like it belongs on a custom vehicle. Functions properly and it’s nice the tower cover is in 3 pieces so you can easily take it off to access wires if need be. Functions a little bit more solid than the group buy shifter.
all of them a little hard to find 5th gear.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Can't say about the F35, but the F40 is smooth and notchy. Someone said the DF shifter feels like its on the trans itself, I agree even though I think my cables aren't adjusted right as it doesnt return to nuetral/nuetral very well.
I still be changing to an honda style aftermarket 6spd shifter and will have my DF shifter for sale come summer time.
...and, I can laugh at this, 5th gear is my easiest gear to find. IYKYK.
I still be changing to an honda style aftermarket 6spd shifter and will have my DF shifter for sale come summer time.
...and, I can laugh at this, 5th gear is my easiest gear to find. IYKYK.
KSLunsfo
Well-Known Member
- KSLunsfo Well-Known Member
Finally getting around to installing this thing.
I too had to drill out the lockout rivet and replace w/ a bolt. Still on the edge of the bolt being long enough and the arm sliding into place on it's own. I also considered adding a different hole for the spring to put more torsional preload on it but haven't gone there yet.
Longer term thinking I will explore a small linear actuator as I've seen 1 other case of here on the forum.
Edit, rearmost 2 holes of the tunnel cover did line up with existing tunnel holes.
And here I was hoping to do this job w/ the seats in hahaha. With the seats in I managed to remove the old shifter, e-brake handle and tunnel cover (mine was already modified into 3 pieces).
I too had to drill out the lockout rivet and replace w/ a bolt. Still on the edge of the bolt being long enough and the arm sliding into place on it's own. I also considered adding a different hole for the spring to put more torsional preload on it but haven't gone there yet.
Longer term thinking I will explore a small linear actuator as I've seen 1 other case of here on the forum.
Edit, rearmost 2 holes of the tunnel cover did line up with existing tunnel holes.
And here I was hoping to do this job w/ the seats in hahaha. With the seats in I managed to remove the old shifter, e-brake handle and tunnel cover (mine was already modified into 3 pieces).
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SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
- SmsDetroit Goblin Guru
So I'm having an issue with the revers lock out. Its disengages but doesn’t reengage. Now it doesn’t really bother me but i’d like it to work properly. What am i doing wrong?
duthehustle93
Well-Known Member
- duthehustle93 Well-Known Member
I had the same issue... you need to loosen up the nut so that the reverse lockout can actuate smoothly. However, if you loosen that nut too much it will slip past the rivet that is being used as a hard stop.
duthehustle93
Well-Known Member
- duthehustle93 Well-Known Member
Adjust the shifter cable for the one that translates left/right and that should fix it.
KSLunsfo
Well-Known Member
- KSLunsfo Well-Known Member
Yes, you are correct haha... I was out on the first drive with the new shifter (but not far from home) when I posted. Wasn't sure initially what to do but realized what I needed to do while on the way back home. Somehow, I could not tell with the car off or sitting that I wasn't reaching 5th. It wasn't until I drove it that I realized it was just falling back into 3rd.
