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V1 Missing Parts and Questions

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
F
Hi guys

Does anyone know the exact part number for these for our rear calipers?
41175

To clarify, I don’t know that this is the right part number, these just look similar to what we have - maybe they are the same but I’m not sure. I’m missing one of these.

Also, does anyone know what these are? Little 3D printed rings of some sort that came with the brakes
41176
 
jirwin
Hi guys

Does anyone know the exact part number for these for our rear calipers?
View attachment 41175
To clarify, I don’t know that this is the right part number, these just look similar to what we have - maybe they are the same but I’m not sure. I’m missing one of these.

Also, does anyone know what these are? Little 3D printed rings of some sort that came with the brakes
View attachment 41176

The latter are hub centering rings I believe
 
F
Hi guys

Does anyone know the exact part number for these for our rear calipers?
View attachment 41175
To clarify, I don’t know that this is the right part number, these just look similar to what we have - maybe they are the same but I’m not sure. I’m missing one of these.

Also, does anyone know what these are? Little 3D printed rings of some sort that came with the brakes
View attachment 41176
Ended up getting the retainer clips with a brake pad kit from Advance Auto. Guy was pretty cool and gave me the whole thing at cost so I basically got spare set of rear pads for half the price :D

I've now moved onto bleeding and have returned to banging my head on a wall. Started on the passenger side rear, and I've been at it for hours, still getting air bubbles. What are the most common leak points you all have experienced in the past?
 
F
I've tried doing it both with the pedal and vacuum. I would say brakes are pretty mushy. Pedal goes all the way to the floor. I can hear the fluid "gushing" as I push the pedal down.

When I try to vacuum bleed, its just an endless stream of bubbles it seems.

Side note that may be helpful:
Last night as I was bleeding, I felt the pedal start to get firm, but as I continued to apply pressure to the pedal, I felt a "thunk" for lack of a better word - and then the pedal went back to the floor. Almost as if I dislodged some debris or something.

This morning, tried vacuuming again and just bubbles.
 
Rauq
I never had any success with vacuum bleeding. Somehow, although the supply lines between the master cylinders and the reservoir held pressure without leaking, they would pull bubbles into the system with a vacuum bleeder.

I can bleed all 4 brakes with a pressure bleeder in about 10 minutes by myself. The clutch requires an assistant as the short run between the bleeder and the slave cylinder (after the bleeder) can only be bled by cracking the bleeder with the pedal depressed. Again, though, I can purge all the air from the upstream side of the clutch hydraulic line in about 30 seconds with the pressure bleeder.
 
S
I had no luck vacuum bleeding my 09 TC and only had success after making a pressure bleeder. Vacuum bleeders tend to pull air past the threads on the bleeder nipple so the presence of bubbles never seems to end during the process in my experience.
 
G
Sounds like it might be an issue with the master cylinder.

My experience with vacuum bleeding matches Rauq and Scott.

I was able to pressure bleed the clutch by myself though. I may have pressed the pedal and then added pressure but I don't remember.
 
Ross
Only 1 bleed valve that I know of. Bled it the same as the brakes. Vacuum bled the system to get rid of most of the air, then had my son pump up the pressure in the clutch, then I cracked the clutch bleeder loose, close the bleeder, and repeat.
 
F
Well I think I figured it out (only one bleed valve). Tricky little SOB to get to now that the fuse box and all are already installed. Think I got all of the air out of both lines - clutch pedal is pretty heavy now. What would be the tell tale sign if I didn’t?
 
Rauq
Well I think I figured it out (only one bleed valve). Tricky little SOB to get to now that the fuse box and all are already installed. Think I got all of the air out of both lines - clutch pedal is pretty heavy now. What would be the tell tale sign if I didn’t?
Either it won't start in gear (engage the parking brake and the foot brake for safety) or it won't shift into gear or will grind if you start it in neutral.
 
F
Ok this is what I figured. There is the TINIEST bit of play in the pedal right at the beginning of the clutch stroke (which I think is just from the linkage), but other than that, firm consistent pressure. Pretty sure it’s all set. Just days away from being ready for inspection wooo!!
 
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