V1 New videos

[Lonny]

The big light blue wire is a door wire from your donor, the yellow, brown, white and green are supplied with our kit or you can re-purpose donor wire or purchase wire.

We sell this kit that can save you time and headache but not money. LOL

The kit is now $75 (the price was adjusted to match our recalculated material costs).

You will need to let us know what your donor is to make sure we give you the matching kit.

 

[ncgoblin]

The big light blue wire is a door wire from your donor, the yellow, brown, white and green are supplied with our kit or you can re-purpose donor wire or purchase wire.

We sell this kit that can save you time and headache but not money. LOL

The kit is $50

You will need to let us know what your donor is to make sure we give you the matching kit.

Worth it IMO anything to save time with wiring would have been worth it back in the day.

 

[Karter2026]

Where was this 2 years ago? Great option to have the factory wire colors . It will eliminate the confusion of changing colors .

 

[MisterDave]

Looking ahead at the new wiring videos... on video “wiring harness guide video part 5 - organizing harness part 2” at 2:16.
I have 3 brown wires out one side and 4 on the other. The 3 are license plate light, marker light and tail light. The 4 has one going toward the fuse box, one toward the red bcm, one is a marker light and the 4th a tail light.
should the group of 3 go to the fuse box and the group of 4 have one to the grey square plug and the rest toward the red bcm?

 

[Lonny]

There all tied together inside the taped area so they are all equal.

You will need to pick three of them and send them toward the rear. Two for tail lights and one for licence plate light.

You will need to send two toward the front. One for the left mirror park lamp and the other for the right mirror park lamp.

Leave the other two hooked up to the BCM and fuse box.

 

[MisterDave]

There all tied together inside the taped area so they are all equal.

You will need to pick three of them and send them toward the rear. Two for tail lights and one for licence plate light.

You will need to send two toward the front. One for the left mirror park lamp and the other for the right mirror park lamp.

Leave the other two hooked up to the BCM and fuse box.

Awesome! Thank you Lonny!

 

[MisterDave]

I am working on video "Wiring Harness Guide Part 4 - Organizing the Main Harness, Pt. 1" at 5:00
Labeling the body to dash wires(ss/tc donor). the video says to label all the wires in the first column of the label sheet. I worked my way down the list, but the last one says "Extension Wire - B6 Tan (MU3) Clutch and Fuel Level." I already labeled wire B6... Am I right to assume that this label will be used later and should be part of the "first column of labels"?
If that is the case I will be left with 3 wires unlabeled that according to direction I should thin... They are C9 (light Green), C7 (Green) and D3 (Red with White stripe). D3 had two wires out of it, the second was thinned earlier. I labeled D4 which is also red w/ white.

 

[Lonny]

When you solder in the fuel pump connector it will have a tan that will tie in to the B6 tan and to a tan extension clutch wire. Three tan wires will be hooked together. You will use the extra label for the tan clutch extension wire.

C9 wiper switch high signal
C7 traction control - no longer functional
D3 accessory positive power- we supply accessory power from the amp power instead.
D4 is OBDII power - keep this one

 

[Acewest]

I have these wires. After thinning the harness some going to the BCM and some going to the fuse box. As shown in the pictures. Any idea what these are for ? I’m doing. 2006 supercharged Goblin

 

[Ark :D]

Part 8 up! Get to work! =D

 

[MisterDave]

I'm back at the wiring and hoping to fix a possible mistake...
I am on the new Wiring harness guide part 6 at 1:24
I grouped the 4 ground wires together cut and twisted, but I didn't solder them yet... I realized that one of the grounds was that extension ground mentioned earlier to be used for the inter-cooler water pump. I'm thinking this was not supposed to be cut there. Should I just take the cut-off portion of this wire and solder it in to this connection? or should I remove that extension wire from this solder point and solder it to the (mistakenly) cut off portion of the extension? This way would keep it separate from that ground lug.
I did find one other ground that was cut when pulling the ground lugs in video part 4 at 3;44. Should this have been the fourth ground "from the fuse box"?
I hope this makes sense... I might have to post a video to explain this better.

 

[Murcielago311]

I asked about this in post #31. I had only 3 grounds and the intercooler pump ground separate, also.
Haven't figured out if the 'from the fuse box' ground was the IC pump ground, but that's the only option I had available there.

 

[MisterDave]

I asked about this in post #31. I had only 3 grounds and the intercooler pump ground separate, also.
Haven't figured out if the 'from the fuse box' ground was the IC pump ground, but that's the only option I had available there.

Thanks!
So I'll pull the extension ground out and solder it back to the part I cut off...
Did you have a ground coming from the fuse box that was cut when getting the ground lug out in video part 4 at 3:44? Might this be that "fuse box ground" he is referring to?

 

[Lonny]

Kind of a rule of thumb for the Goblin wiring is that every black wire and black wire with a white stripe that comes from a plug or connector will somehow need to be grounded.

Also you will need to have extra grounds for lights, pumps, fans and accessories.

For example I run three long ground wires for the rear lights. One each for the left and right lights and one for the licence plate light.

If you forget or don't want to run a ground for the intercooler pump, or anything else, you can simply put a ring spade terminal on the ground wire and hook it to the frame or subframe with a self drilling screw.

 

[JBINTX]

Kind of a rule of thumb for the Goblin wiring is that every black wire and black wire with a white stripe that comes from a plug or connector will somehow need to be grounded.

Also you will need to have extra grounds for lights, pumps, fans and accessories.

For example I run three long ground wires for the rear lights. One each for the left and right lights and one for the licence plate light.

If you forget or don't want to run a ground for the intercooler pump, or anything else, you can simply put a ring spade terminal on the ground wire and hook it to the frame or subframe with a self drilling screw.

View attachment 11874View attachment 11875

Lonny: Is there any advantage to running the long wires you mentioned versus using the chassis?

 

[Lonny]

No, the grounds will function the same either way. I just have slowly moved to using as few spots as possible to lessen the chances of having a grounding issue. Of course it does put all of you grounding eggs in one basket. lol

 

[Briann1177]

I like all my ground eggs in one basket. That way it either all works or nothing works.

 

[RouteAbel]

ground eggs, is that similar to scrambled?

 

[Mayor West]

Did you have a ground coming from the fuse box that was cut when getting the ground lug out in video part 4 at 3:44? Might this be that "fuse box ground" he is referring to?

I'm at this part of the video now, I also don't have an extra fuse box ground wire that I can see. I am, however, not running the intercooler water pump for my turbo build so any references to that section I ignored.

I guess I can safely ignore this and just take Lonny's advice and make sure all open black/b&w wires are terminated somewhere eventually.

 

[Murcielago311]

Regarding the newest video 9. On removing the dash to main harness connector, I dont have the RPD gauge but I DO have a pair of twisted data wires on this connector that run to the blue dash to BCM plug that I don't know what to do with. 06 SS. Anyone know?