V1 No rear running lights, cluster, or license light.

[Robf]

If the earlier model matches the later model, it should be pin B7 which is the other white wire on that connector. You are on F1 which is probably the rear defogger.

So the wire is good but I believe the ground is bad. The ground under the fuse block seems solid

 

[Gtstorey]

What ground are you talking about? The ground signal for the relay that is supplied by the BCM? I would think that it would affect other things if that was the case. You are checking this stuff with the light switch on? What is the actual measured resistance from white wire terminal on the BCM to the battery negative terminal (although this isn't a perfect test). You could also use incandescent test light here by testing from the battery positive to the white wire. It's possible the BCM has an internal fault, but I don't think we are there yet.

 

[Gtstorey]

As a follow up on the BCM ground signal to the relay, This ground is to the internal ground bus inside the BCM. The new models have 2 external grounds for the BCM. Black wires on BCM connector x1 and x4.

 

[Gtstorey]

Put a jumper wire from a known good ground (and I usually will run a wire from the negative battery terminal for a ground if I have any doubts) and ground pin B7, with the connector plugged in. This will test the relay.

 

[Robf]

What ground are you talking about? The ground signal for the relay that is supplied by the BCM? I would think that it would affect other things if that was the case. You are checking this stuff with the light switch on? What is the actual measured resistance from white wire terminal on the BCM to the battery negative terminal (although this isn't a perfect test). You could also use incandescent test light here by testing from the battery positive to the white wire. It's possible the BCM has an internal fault, but I don't think we are there yet.

What I was referring to about the ground was when the fuse box was off and I had access to the b7 plug i tested to the rear ground post and I didn't have ground.


I installed the fuse box back on the plugs. I unwrapped the wires at the fuse box grabbed the white wire that goes to b7. I had grounding at the rear post.

Ran a jumper wire from my negative post on my battery and checked my rear ground and I'm grounded on the rear post under the fuse box.

I then added a jumper wire to b7 plugged everything back in with lights on and I have ground at the rear post.

I also have continuity from b7 to the bcm x1-8.

 

[Gtstorey]

I’m not sure at this point what you are trying to test.
Did you connect pin B7 to a known good ground? If so did the lights work or any noise of the relay working (the noise might have been very slight).

 

[Robf]

I’m not sure at this point what you are trying to test.
Did you connect pin B7 to a known good ground? If so did the lights work or any noise of the relay working (the noise might have been very slight).

Yes this is b7 to ground. I also took the jumper wire right to ground and had no clicking noises snd my lights never turned on.

 

[Gtstorey]

The pictures aren’t doing me any good.

Next step is to see if you are getting any power to the park lamp fuse while grounding the B7 plug. If not we have it narrowed down to right at the fuse box. We will have to confirm that the B7 plug is actually making good contact to it’s mating terminal. But check for power at the fuse first.

 

[Robf]

The pictures aren’t doing me any good.

Next step is to see if you are getting any power to the park lamp fuse while grounding the B7 plug. If not we have it narrowed down to right at the fuse box. We will have to confirm that the B7 plug is actually making good contact to it’s mating terminal. But check for power at the fuse first.

B7 jumped to ground. No power at the 15amp park fuse

 

[Gtstorey]

B7 jumped to ground. No power at the 15amp park fuse

That leaves two choices.
1. B7 isn’t making good contact with it’s mating pin. Visually inspect both sides for damage. Pull b7 wire from the X connector and tighten it up with a small screwdriver.

2. internal to the fuse box printed circuit board. It’s possible to disassemble the box and check the board but it involves following the trace and applying power and ground directly to the relay pins. Doable but fiddly.

An option to fix it is to just install a relay some where using the white wire as the closing signal for the relay.

 

[Robf]

That leaves two choices.
1. B7 isn’t making good contact with it’s mating pin. Visually inspect both sides for damage. Pull b7 wire from the X connector and tighten it up with a small screwdriver.

2. internal to the fuse box printed circuit board. It’s possible to disassemble the box and check the board but it involves following the trace and applying power and ground directly to the relay pins. Doable but fiddly.

An option to fix it is to just install a relay some where using the white wire as the closing signal for the relay.

#1 checked out fine it appears as if it's making good connection. There is no damage to the pin or connector.
#2 I'd just replace the fuse box. This electrical work is already over my head.

I have one of the local yards looking for an 07 fuse box. I should know more come early next week if they have one.

I again want to note my issues with grounds. Both the drivers side light and license plate light didn't have a working ground in those wires. I fixed them and they are all grounded now. But that wouldn't have any change to the issue I'm having right?

 

[Gtstorey]

No. The relay is grounded by the bcm. Assuming you had a known good ground when you grounded B7 and used a known good ground for the voltage check at the fuse, you should have gotten voltage.

 

[Robf]

No. The relay is grounded by the bcm. Assuming you had a known good ground when you grounded B7 and used a known good ground for the voltage check at the fuse, you should have gotten voltage.

Sounds good thanks for all your help hopefully a new fuse box is the fix we shall see

 

[Gtstorey]

I guess I should ask and make sure you had the main v+ feed still connected to the fuse box when conducting these tests?

 

[Robf]

I guess I should ask and make sure you had the main v+ feed still connected to the fuse box when conducting these tests?

Yes, I believe everything was connected as it should. That's why I was taking pictures. If you pull up the last pic I posted everything is hooked up.

 

[Robf]

I guess I should ask and make sure you had the main v+ feed still connected to the fuse box when conducting these tests?

Today I stopped by the semi local junk yard and picked up a new fuse box (also got a bcm and ecm) for my exact year make and model donor 50 bucks. Got home tossed in the new fuse box and it fixed my running light issue. Thanks for walking me through things.