V1 No start

[dastrups]

Wants to fire up. I mounted and plumbed in the intercooler but same thing. Plugged in power steering and RPD. RPD turns on or at least the backlight does. Not sure if it is supposed to do anything else when the key turns on. Still can’t get the OBD2 to connect to code reader.

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[dastrups]

These three things are not plugged in. The blue and yellow cap and the vacuum line. Not sure where they go.

 

[r3drckt]

Out of curiosity, have you checked the timing? Not sure if the LNF has the same cam position sensor on the back of the exhaust cam as the LSJ, but I’m curious if it’s not getting spark when it should be. It sounds like it wants to kick over every few cranks like 1 of the cylinders did fire, but then the rest aren’t.

I’m assuming this is either a direct pull from the donor or an ATK crate motor (sorry, didn’t review the thread or your build log) so the timing chain should be accurate, but wouldn’t hurt to pull at least the valve cover and rotate the engine to TDC cyl 1 and check the timing marks.

 

[dastrups]

Out of curiosity, have you checked the timing? Not sure if the LNF has the same cam position sensor on the back of the exhaust cam as the LSJ, but I’m curious if it’s not getting spark when it should be. It sounds like it wants to kick over every few cranks like 1 of the cylinders did fire, but then the rest aren’t.

I’m assuming this is either a direct pull from the donor or an ATK crate motor (sorry, didn’t review the thread or your build log) so the timing chain should be accurate, but wouldn’t hurt to pull at least the valve cover and rotate the engine to TDC cyl 1 and check the timing marks.

It does seem like timing huh. It’s a brand new LNF crate motor from ATK performance so I don’t know.

 

[Ross]

You still don't have data flowing on the GM high speed LAN.
Do you have access to an electrical diagram for your car?
I would trace the GM high speed wires, and try to find where the data issue exists.

 

[dastrups]

You still don't have data flowing on the GM high speed LAN.
Do you have access to an electrical diagram for your car?
I would trace the GM high speed wires, and try to find where the data issue exists.

So do I need to take out the whole wiring harness. Was kind of hoping I wouldn’t have to but perhaps that’s the only thing to do at this point.

Would that restrict it from starting? Even when I am jump starting it from the relay?

 

[Ross]

I tested my high speed data wires in the car, using a meter. No point in taking the harness out to test the wires.
Did you modify the harness? Just want to make sure that when the EBCM (electronic brake control module) was removed, and the VCIM (vehicle communication interface module) was removed, that the high speed wires got reconnected.

My LSJ engine will run (but not key start), if the high speed wires don't communicate to the power steering and OBDII port, but I think there is still communication between the ECM and BCM. Not sure on the LNF.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Wants to fire up. I mounted and plumbed in the intercooler but same thing. Plugged in power steering and RPD. RPD turns on or at least the backlight does. Not sure if it is supposed to do anything else when the key turns on. Still can’t get the OBD2 to connect to code reader.

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This is exactly what my issue was. Connect those wires in the picture like I have listed as your #1 priority - since you've removed the power steering you've lost a connection in the daisy chain.

If you've wired it and your RPD does not show a red SS loading screen and then show your gauges check the plug into the RPD screen itself.

 

[dastrups]

I tested my high speed data wires in the car, using a meter. No point in taking the harness out to test the wires.
Did you modify the harness? Just want to make sure that when the EBCM (electronic brake control module) was removed, and the VCIM (vehicle communication interface module) was removed, that the high speed wires got reconnected.

My LSJ engine will run (but not key start), if the high speed wires don't communicate to the power steering and OBDII port, but I think there is still communication between the ECM and BCM. Not sure on the LNF.

I see. I may need a little guidance on how to test that. Yes I did the harness myself. I remember soldering the high speed data wires from the ECM to BCM. I have a multimeter but I’m clueless on how to use it. I think I can find the correct pins for the ECM and BCM as well as power steering and RPD. I just don’t know what setting to put on the multimeter. I know how to check for continuity with grounds. Is it the same process? I’m also wondering how you would reach from the ECM to the BCM with your multimeter prong wires being so short. Sorry, so new to all of this stuff.

 

[dastrups]

This is exactly what my issue was. Connect those wires in the picture like I have listed as your #1 priority - since you've removed the power steering you've lost a connection in the daisy chain.

If you've wired it and your RPD does not show a red SS loading screen and then show your gauges check the plug into the RPD screen itself.

Okay I will try this. I did just plug everything back into the power steering module but it didn’t seem to make a difference. Your saying that by doing what was done in the picture that this would potentially make a difference?

As far as the RPD the 2008 is just an analog version so I don’t know if it would do anything but just show the backlight until the car is started.

 

[OptimizePrime]

These three things are not plugged in. The blue and yellow cap and the vacuum line. Not sure where they go.

First pic (the open vac line) goes to your intercooler pipe right next to your map sensor - there's a brass nipple you screw into the intercooler pipe

Second pic - I'd assume you're referencing the blue cap. This is for evap, you want it capped off but it doesn't matter if you have the plug connected. The cap should have a clamp on it as boost will send this cap to pluto

Third pic - The yellow cap goes from your intake to your brake booster. If you have your brake booster (and not full manual with a wilwood reservoir) it'll help with braking ( with a vacuum regulator).

Basically I'd hook your intercooler pipes up with all your sensors & maf and close up these boost/vacuum leaks and you should be set (assuming your ps is rewired)

 

[Ross]

I see. I may need a little guidance on how to test that. Yes I did the harness myself. I remember soldering the high speed data wires from the ECM to BCM. I have a multimeter but I’m clueless on how to use it. I think I can find the correct pins for the ECM and BCM as well as power steering and RPD. I just don’t know what setting to put on the multimeter. I know how to check for continuity with grounds. Is it the same process? I’m also wondering how you would reach from the ECM to the BCM with your multimeter prong wires being so short. Sorry, so new to all of this stuff.

I extend my multimeter prong wires by adding a spare wire from the left over wire harness thinning.
Lots of you tube videos on "electrical continuity test with multimeter". Probably start there.

 

[dastrups]

I extend my multimeter prong wires by adding a spare wire from the left over wire harness thinning.
Lots of you tube videos on "electrical continuity test with multimeter". Probably start there.

Okay thank you!

 

[dastrups]

First pic (the open vac line) goes to your intercooler pipe right next to your map sensor - there's a brass nipple you screw into the intercooler pipe

Second pic - I'd assume you're referencing the blue cap. This is for evap, you want it capped off but it doesn't matter if you have the plug connected. The cap should have a clamp on it as boost will send this cap to pluto

Third pic - The yellow cap goes from your intake to your brake booster. If you have your brake booster (and not full manual with a wilwood reservoir) it'll help with braking ( with a vacuum regulator).

Basically I'd hook your intercooler pipes up with all your sensors & maf and close up these boost/vacuum leaks and you should be set (assuming your ps is rewired)

Thank you!! And do you do anything with the bigger plug in this picture? Or did you delete the ps module all together?