Welding on a quick-disconnect hub

[Ark :D]

I've been looking into a quick-disconnect steering wheel and hub for quite a while now. The only thing is, I don't want to spend $200+ on it, mostly because I actually like the steering wheel that came with the kit and well, my "financial advisor" is completely out of patience with me and this project. I went well beyond what I told her I'd spend, and I still have to get registered/insured!

So with that being said, I am thinking of keeping it as simple as possible by going with one of the Longacre Racing quick-disconnect hubs. THIS one, or THIS one, not sure which yet. I like the idea of having the splines for safety, but I am not and never will be a track-goer, so I don't know.

Anyway, my question. I am not a welder. What has to be done to get one of those QD hubs welded onto the steering shaft? Can it be done while in the car? Does the steering shaft separate from the power steering assembly? Any chance a small mom-and-pop auto mechanic would be able/willing to do the job?

Just looking for thoughts. Thanks!

 

[Brian74]

I've been looking into a quick-disconnect steering wheel and hub for quite a while now. The only thing is, I don't want to spend $200+ on it, mostly because I actually like the steering wheel that came with the kit and well, my "financial advisor" is completely out of patience with me and this project. I went well beyond what I told her I'd spend, and I still have to get registered/insured!

So with that being said, I am thinking of keeping it as simple as possible by going with one of the Longacre Racing quick-disconnect hubs. THIS one, or THIS one, not sure which yet. I like the idea of having the splines for safety, but I am not and never will be a track-goer, so I don't know.

Anyway, my question. I am not a welder. What has to be done to get one of those QD hubs welded onto the steering shaft? Can it be done while in the car? Does the steering shaft separate from the power steering assembly? Any chance a small mom-and-pop auto mechanic would be able/willing to do the job?

Just looking for thoughts. Thanks!

My rule of thumb is the second time a person considers hiring someone to weld something, its time for them to buy a secondhand MIG welder and start practicing themselves.

 

[Rttoys]

If you are not welding it yourself, I would doubt it’ll be any cheaper in the long run. The shaft will also have to be cut back or the wheel will be way too close to you. Should be able to pull the shaft to weld it though. I wouldn’t weld it on the car.

 

[k.rollin]

I used the first one that you linked. Had to turn the shaft OD down by .035, then I drilled the spud in a few places and plug welded it to the shaft. The bearing needs to be installed on the shaft prior to welding or else it's not going to be able to be assembled (ask me how I know).

Karl's Track Goblin No. 40 - 2008 LT ***REGISTERED***

Biggest mistake on our car was using some crap on the caliper, sorry I forgot the name, it was nothing but junk. Truth is, the brakes don’t really get that hot under normal conditions and just about anything would work.

dfkitcar.com

FWIW, after I ground the welds to remove the spud, I decided to just spend the extra money and use the SFI approved hub from NRG instead.

 

[Goblin Graber]

I have that second one in my rat rod. It’s simple but it works good. The steering wheel locks in nice and solid.

 

[Lonny]

Both of the long acre racing hubs are slip on pin design and will have some wiggle while installed. They are safe to use, but for me a little annoying.

The NRG style are a spring pressure ball wedge design that when installed have zero wiggle. Also it is a bolt on product.

There is a possibility that we may be adding a six bolt steering wheel and splined adapter to our product line. Not anytime soon! Next summer at best.

 

[Ark :D]

I may just wait and see what you guys offer. Any wiggle in the steering wheel would definitely annoy me so it's either that, or look at an NRG setup and a different steering wheel. Decisions, decisions.