Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Rear sway bar without a front should move the car more from understeer toward oversteer. In my case with the rear non-ss swaybar, it seems the car is pretty close to neutral with maybe a slight bias toward oversteer. Quite a lot of factors figure into this and I barely ran the car before I added the swaybar so I can't really compare with and without. But for spirited road driving I like where it is at. I can't comment on more aggressive race course driving.
 
Fenix Nexen

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Gtstorey said:
Rear sway bar without a front should move the car more from understeer toward oversteer. In my case with the rear non-ss swaybar, it seems the car is pretty close to neutral with maybe a slight bias toward oversteer. Quite a lot of factors figure into this and I barely ran the car before I added the swaybar so I can't really compare with and without. But for spirited road driving a like where it its at. I can't comment on more aggressive race course driving.
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I do want to do spirited driving. I have no experience with rear engine vehicles and no experience handling oversteer either. If a sway bar helps then I'll most definitely use it
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
For what it's worth, I am a spirited driver making more power than you will, @Fenix Nexen and I don't really experience either understeer or oversteer, to the best of my knowledge. I don't think it'll really be much of a thing for street-only.
 
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G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Fenix Nexen said:
Oh okay good to know
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Like I said, there is a lot of other pieces that go into this, such as wheel/tire combo and even alignment settings. And of course, even the how tight the roads are where you are doing your spirited driving will make a difference. I would make sure the coilover is done in such a way that you can add in a swaybar so you can easily add one later.
 
Fenix Nexen

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Rauq said:
Is it because there's nothing else attached to the coilover that there's a gap between the spring top hat and the spacer? Even at full droop I don't have a gap there. Sorry if I'm making a fuss for nothing.
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Yeah that's what I'm thinking. Will see what happens when I get the rest of the stuff on
 
Joebob

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Even without running a sway bar, you should switch the sides as it will also give you a mounting point to hold the parking brake cables. You can see on the sticker FL for Front Left.

47064


As @Rauq also mentioned, a good starting point is to thread the spring perch up to take all the play out of the spring at full droop and then thread in the bottom housing for ride height. Most start at ~4" measured inside the knuckle housing to the bottom of the shock insert.

Joe
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Rauq said:
Is it because there's nothing else attached to the coilover that there's a gap between the spring top hat and the spacer? Even at full droop I don't have a gap there. Sorry if I'm making a fuss for nothing.
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Spring will likely need more preload.
 
Fenix Nexen

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Joebob said:
Even without running a sway bar, you should switch the sides as it will also give you a mounting point to hold the parking brake cables. You can see on the sticker FL for Front Left.

View attachment 47064

As @Rauq also mentioned, a good starting point is to thread the spring perch up to take all the play out of the spring at full droop and then thread in the bottom housing for ride height. Most start at ~4" measured inside the knuckle housing to the bottom of the shock insert.

Joe
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Multiple reasons to swap them so I will be doing that. I measured 4.5 inches deep into the strut just as the assembly pictures shown. Will see how it's loaded when everything is attached but atm stuff is at powder coating for a few weeks
 
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