Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor
- Thread starter mike_sno
- Start date
I like the new subframe, but I am not quite there to spend the money on it.
The part came today, despite in the description it came only one part, but the price was still ok. I started to disassemble the wheel hub and thought I came to a stop when I saw that 30mm axle nut. I did not have a deep 30mm socket and thought this nut must be torqued quite a bit. The 30mm socket I have just barley touched the hex. Anyway, lucky me I was able to losen the nut. It was hand tight, not more. Now I wonder was that the reason why I had play? I don't think so, but wanted to be sure.
Another question, please have a look at the picture. The nut is oriented in the way it was installed. Is that the right way??
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
It's been so long ago I disassembled mine I honestly don't remember. Maybe someone else can come in with the answer. There is a 50/50 chance for a correct answer, but I don't want to give you an incorrect answer.
I think the nut is placed correct. At least in this video it's installed in the same way. However, I will need a longer nut to torque it and I am missing the washer behind the nut.
It was fairly easy, just take the wheel off, remove the axle nut, remove the brake disc and all 3 mounting screws were accessible. No work on the suspension.
It was fairly easy, just take the wheel off, remove the axle nut, remove the brake disc and all 3 mounting screws were accessible. No work on the suspension.
Markm
Well-Known Member
I don’t remember what the actual torque spec is for the axle nut but if it comes loose it will make the bearing loose
I think I used the "higher" temp engine paint or maybe it was brake caliper paint without going to exhaust temperature paint. Going on 2.5 years now and has held up well. But it doesn't get driven in the wet, and probably rarely gets the brakes real hot since it's all backroad driving.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
I found several Axle nut torque specs and am still unsure as to the proer spec but the lowest found was 155 Ft. Lbs., so IF that nut was finger tight it certainly wasn't helping things!
Washer was always shown in diagrams, so it appears to be essential! Also, a torque spec of 155# or more does not sound unreasonable. I always look up such info and/or is usually included with new axles and/or associated parts.
Washer was always shown in diagrams, so it appears to be essential! Also, a torque spec of 155# or more does not sound unreasonable. I always look up such info and/or is usually included with new axles and/or associated parts.
Ross
Goblin Guru
For your 2009 Cobalt, here is the torque spec.
Axle Nut
For all except the LNF and MU3
Wheel Drive Shaft Nut 210 Nm (155 lb ft)
For my 2006 Cobalt, I found the torque specification here.
Axle Nut: Specifications
Axle Nut 210 Nm (155 lb ft)
Axle Nut
For all except the LNF and MU3
Wheel Drive Shaft Nut 210 Nm (155 lb ft)
For my 2006 Cobalt, I found the torque specification here.
Axle Nut: Specifications
Axle Nut 210 Nm (155 lb ft)
I replaced the hub now anyway, the old hub definitely has play while the new one has no play. I will torque them to 210Nm. And check the other side too.
The painting of the rotors is a good idea. I wonder why at my BMW the rotors are not rusty, might be a different material.
The painting of the rotors is a good idea. I wonder why at my BMW the rotors are not rusty, might be a different material.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
Or a coating may have been applied and it just looks like raw steel.
Great Grand Pa Arthur Bell always told me to "replace bearings and such in pairs, does one side see any mile the other sides doesn't?"
He was also fond of pointing out "Sunny Boy, you never owned a horse." I'm not sure what the horse comment proved but it seemed, around cars, he always found his reason to mention that. Actually I know what he was pointing out to me; when you own a horse it needs maintenance every day, even if you are NOT going ANYWHERE!
I installed the smaller pulley. Getting over a wide rpm range now 2psi more. Hitting a maximum of 17.6psi at the moment. Will install the 60lbs injectors next, as my injectors are at 125% duty cycle at the moment.
I haven't changed anything in the tune and the new pulley is just a little bit smaller. I was wondering why the car is not idling anymore. Before it was spot on, now it's dancing around between 1000 and 1600rpm. I think I will figure that out first, then install the new injectors.
I haven't changed anything in the tune and the new pulley is just a little bit smaller. I was wondering why the car is not idling anymore. Before it was spot on, now it's dancing around between 1000 and 1600rpm. I think I will figure that out first, then install the new injectors.
I need some help. I installed the 60lbs injectors with a new wiring harness. I followed goat ropes advice how to get the injectors tuned in. Doing that, the engine really idles bad. My wide band is reading 22.4 (the max it can display) and as soon as the throttle opens it goes down to like 15 for a second. I have a log attached. I also wonders me, why the boost gauge is always closer to 0 then in vacuum.
If I had to guess I would say one of the injectors is not injecting. Is there a way to test them?
If I had to guess I would say one of the injectors is not injecting. Is there a way to test them?
