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V1 RG's Goblin #455 ('06 manual donor)
RGSkid70
Active Member
- RGSkid70 Active Member
Thanks RCK605, and Ross! Re-learn procedure made the warning light go away. One less gremlin to chase down.
Still won't crank, though. Removed and bench tested the starter; checks OK. Checked voltages at the starter, and I'm not getting 12 v. at the starter solenoid when the key is at start position. I'm hearing a relay click in the BCM, so I will start looking for a break somewhere in the solenoid wire or the start circuit.
Still won't crank, though. Removed and bench tested the starter; checks OK. Checked voltages at the starter, and I'm not getting 12 v. at the starter solenoid when the key is at start position. I'm hearing a relay click in the BCM, so I will start looking for a break somewhere in the solenoid wire or the start circuit.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
- Ark :D Goblin Guru
Make sure all the square plug ends in your engine fuse box are seated very tightly. Torque down the bolts in the fuse box as hard as you can by hand, but don't use an impact on them.
When this very thing happened to me, it was because a contact inside one of those blocks was not making good contact with one of the pins in the underside of the fuse box.
If this ends up being the same problem for you, then I just saved you 20+ pages of electrical troubleshooting, lol.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
It's always a ground wire....is the engine block grounded? The fuse block ground? The ground wire up by the headlights? How about at the battery? These can be missed - and they need to be attached to clean and bare metal.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
- ah.b.normal Goblin Guru
I've seen builders make mistakes with these wires in two different ways and I blame bean counters. The + cable running from the fuse block to the + starter is black insulation with a small ring of red on each end.(which easily gets greasy and thus becomes black.)They also taped the black insulated negative ground wire, to run parallel to this + wire! Sorry GM, Positive battery wires that are always "hot" should have RED insulation! Grounds should be black insulated!
I have seen both ends of that - ground wire connected incorrectly! In one instance the ground wire was on the + starter post with the Batt+. (He was saved by corrosion on the other end.) That is two big battery sized wires, both with black insulation, taped together running parallel with only a tiny red indicator on each end of the +batt/ Fuse block wire!
In the Goblin modification the Batt + wire now runs from the Batt to the copper lug you installed to attach it the + pole on the starter. When people install that copper lug on the Batt + cable I recommend marking that new end with a length of pretty red electrical tape, making it really show up!
The Fuse block feed wire runs from the Starter + post to the funky tall jump start bolt on the fuse block
The Alternator feed wire runs from the + pole on the starter to the Alt.(and these exhaust holes made that wire black as well!! STUPID, IMO, it's only about 1' long. I would spangle that wire with red Electrical tape as well.)
The ground wire runs from a frame ground under the fuse block to any convenient hole low on the block, probably under or near the oil filter.
I have seen both ends of that - ground wire connected incorrectly! In one instance the ground wire was on the + starter post with the Batt+. (He was saved by corrosion on the other end.) That is two big battery sized wires, both with black insulation, taped together running parallel with only a tiny red indicator on each end of the +batt/ Fuse block wire!
In the Goblin modification the Batt + wire now runs from the Batt to the copper lug you installed to attach it the + pole on the starter. When people install that copper lug on the Batt + cable I recommend marking that new end with a length of pretty red electrical tape, making it really show up!
The Fuse block feed wire runs from the Starter + post to the funky tall jump start bolt on the fuse block
The Alternator feed wire runs from the + pole on the starter to the Alt.(and these exhaust holes made that wire black as well!! STUPID, IMO, it's only about 1' long. I would spangle that wire with red Electrical tape as well.)
The ground wire runs from a frame ground under the fuse block to any convenient hole low on the block, probably under or near the oil filter.
RGSkid70
Active Member
- RGSkid70 Active Member
Thanks Thad, Squatch, and Jeremy! All good inputs. I did, in fact have a loose relay in the fusebox. And I did, in fact have the starter + connections wrong. On top of all that, there are two switches on the clutch pedal, and I had one of them adjusted wrong. After chasing all that SUCCESSFUL FIRST START!
A little oil seeping from the timing chain tensioner, and she's running pretty rough, but there's no intake on her yet, and no MAF sensor. I'm pretty happy with that, so far. After a complete engine rebuild, I'm just happy it didn't self-destruct!
A little oil seeping from the timing chain tensioner, and she's running pretty rough, but there's no intake on her yet, and no MAF sensor. I'm pretty happy with that, so far. After a complete engine rebuild, I'm just happy it didn't self-destruct!
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Congrats on the 'first' start - always a big hurdle to get over. Sounds like your methodical troubleshooting paid off!
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
- ah.b.normal Goblin Guru
Hot Dang! Every first start goes in the WIN column! Engine builds are always a worry fest. Congratulations! I don't know why those starter wires mess with so many folks! Other than NON-color coded insulation.
Most folks miss one end of the - neg cable or the other, one guy had both ends connected to the block, not very groundy. He took my advice and bought a 2' cable and ran it from a bolt by the head to the subframe. He found the original wire looped from a bellhousing bolt to somewhere on the trans!
He later realized it was that way when he pulled apart his donor and there was a lg - wire run from the head to the thermostat housing(?)to the D/S strut tower on the left side that he couldn't ID. Since no one ever remembered seeing it on theirs, he took this "extra wire" off before Goblin install. It was strange. It was GM band-aid I've seen 3 in the junkyards, has 3 bolt eyes and a GM label. My bet is body shops tended to forget to install the body end under the D/S headlight during repairs and thus GM put this band-aid up top, where it's easy to reach.
The owner's manual states that to jump the Cobalt attach the + clamp to the fuse block funky bolt and the - clamp to one of the D/S strut tower nuts. When new there was a, GND(-) label by the nut.
Minor rant: I can't believe that after 100 years of cars we're still using Frankenstein Style clamps! I put WARN brand cable connector plugs(used on removable winch installs, also used on battery powered fork lifts), directly from the battery to an easily accessible spot under the hood of both vehicles at Mom's farm. When either car wouldn't start she'd drive one to the other. She had her special cable set I made with those plugs on both ends. Plug the live car into the dead car and start, as simple as plugging in a lamp! These WARN ends only connect one way so you can't jump the car wrong! (The only way to mess up is if the leads are INSTALLED wrong, but it's all color coded so to install it wrong you'd have to try!) She's never had a dead battery problem after that! She LOVES it and she always complained to me, "Why aren't ALL CARS simple like this!" Probably too expensive!?
In the trunk, in the jumper cable bag, I also made "a pair" (1+red, 1-blk)of Frankenstein clamps made together with 2' of cable ending in a WARN plug. In case she had to jump someone else's car! The guys at the garage she got her cars worked on thought it was very cool and began doing the mod for their Family and friends. Not cheap, but Missouri winters can be very cold and I live far away!
RGSkid70
Active Member
RGSkid70
Active Member
- RGSkid70 Active Member
Haven't posted much to my build log, but I have made a lot of progress.
Intake is on. Engine running much smoother now that the MAF sensor is in the intake where it's supposed to be.
Suspension and brakes are in.
Shifter and parking brakes are in.
Seats are in. I got a ccuple of decent racing seats from Jeggs and had a simple adapter frame welded up to attach the slider to the donor mounting brackets.
My wife helped me bleed the brakes and clutch today. Now she's actually sat in the car more than I have.
Intake is on. Engine running much smoother now that the MAF sensor is in the intake where it's supposed to be.
Suspension and brakes are in.
Shifter and parking brakes are in.
Seats are in. I got a ccuple of decent racing seats from Jeggs and had a simple adapter frame welded up to attach the slider to the donor mounting brackets.
My wife helped me bleed the brakes and clutch today. Now she's actually sat in the car more than I have.
RGSkid70
Active Member
- RGSkid70 Active Member
Big day today! She sat down on her own wheels, and I took her for a spin around the neighborhood. Clutch and shifter worked fine. Brakes were a little soft, so I will try bleeding them again. All the lights and signals worked great. Still need to debug the button panel info and return buttons.
Wheel alignment needs work.
Wheel alignment needs work.
Metal Mech
Well-Known Member
- Metal Mech Well-Known Member
That’s awesome man. Must feel good to have her down on her own feet.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
- Sluggonaut Goblin Guru
I remember mine being soft and wondering how firm they should be. Trust me, you'll know when you have them bled correctly, as there's no gray area. If you are unsure and think they are soft, they probably are and need to be bled again. If they never seem to firm up, check the usual suspects like calipers on the wrong side with the bleeder screws down or a leak somewhere.
