V1 Captain Dave's City Goblin #336 - 07 SS/SC Donor

[Captain Dave]

I am starting my build log pretty late in the build process. I purchased my Goblin from another builder that started the process but decided not to finish the car. When I got the car powder coating was complete, wiring harness reworked, coolant hoses ran, floor panels installed, steering rack installed, brake and clutch lines, installed, steering column installed, and the pedal box completed.

The donor car is a 2007 SS/SC with a F35 transmission. The car ran and drove before the teardown process began.

I have finished the remaining items in the stage 1 kit and started on stage 2. I did get the first start yesterday but it only ran briefly. I had to get a new MAF sensor so I did not attempt to keep the car running. I felt great to hear it fire up for the first time! Right now I am kind of jumping around to different parts of the car as it seems I am always missing something needed to complete what I am working on. Currently I am trying to get the shifter cables hooked up correctly, relocate the brake reservoir, finish the front suspension and brakes (waiting for the aluminum rod end kit from DF), and get the rear suspension started. I just order the coil over kit from DF as well.

A little about me: I am a fishing charter boat captain in the Florida Keys. I moved down here about 5 year ago after retiring from the Army after serving for 20 years in the Infantry. I have always enjoyed working on cars and recently I came across the Goblin and the fire was reignited.

 

[Markm]

Looks great. Congratulations on your new build.

 

[Captain Dave]

Received my new MAF sensor today and attempted to start the engine. The engine starts and runs 2-3 seconds and then dies. Giving it some throttle does not keep it running. The horn also starts to beep like a security feature and continues about 10 seconds after I turn the key off and remove it. I have not pulled codes yet but I will do that tomorrow. Any ideas? I think something to do with the computer shutting the car down for some security concern.

 

[comegetjoe]

Received my new MAF sensor today and attempted to start the engine. The engine starts and runs 2-3 seconds and then dies. Giving it some throttle does not keep it running. The horn also starts to beep like a security feature and continues about 10 seconds after I turn the key off and remove it. I have not pulled codes yet but I will do that tomorrow. Any ideas? I think something to do with the computer shutting the car down for some security concern.

Is it installed backwards?

 

[Gtstorey]

Running a few seconds and then dying sounds like a possible VATS (security) issue.

 

[Captain Dave]

Dude I am an idiot sometimes!!!! lol. I researched the issue and read about the maf being backwards but mine only goes into the aluminum pipe one way. Didn’t even occur to me that I needed to just reverse the pipe. Runs great now!!!

I do still have the horn issue. Goes off for 15-20 seconds and then stops even with the motor running.

 

[comegetjoe]

Dude I am an idiot sometimes!!!! lol. I researched the issue and read about the mad being backwards but mine only goes into the aluminum pipe one way. Didn’t even occur to me that I needed to just reverse the pipe. Runs great now!!!

I say that because we've had a few of those scenarios lately.

 

[Captain Dave]

Working on the brake reservoir relocation today. Got everything mounted and now I’m hooking up the lines. Does it matter which way they are connected? I wouldn’t think so but this piping is hard to work with and I wouldn’t rather ask than to do it twice.

 

[Markm]

I didn’t actually use those cause lots of folks were having issues with leaking but you will need them almost flat and not high like that or you’ll never get fluid to the master cylinder from the reservoir. Hard to see which fitting you have on the m/c

 

[Captain Dave]

I didn’t actually use those cause lots of folks were having issues with leaking but you will need them almost flat and not high like that or you’ll never get fluid to the master cylinder from the reservoir. Hard to see which fitting you have on the m/c

What did you use? I think I saw someone using what looked like braided stainless lines. Was that you? I am not going to mount them like that. That was just to give a visual of what I was asking.

 

[comegetjoe]

Working on the brake reservoir relocation today. Got everything mounted and now I’m hooking up the lines. Does it matter which way they are connected? I wouldn’t think so but this piping is hard to work with and I wouldn’t rather ask than to do it twice. View attachment 53509View attachment 53510

I used those provided in the kit, with red loctite and let them cure for days while I did other things before they ever saw fluid. I havent had a problem yet.

 

[Ross]

I put braided stainless lines on... copying what others had already figured out.

11351 - Vibrant Performance -4AN TO 1/8NPT MALE SWIVEL 90 Adapter Fittings	13.95	2	27.90		Summit Racing
10251A - Vibrant Performance AN to NPT Adapter Fittings,	6.79	2	13.58		Summit Racing
260-12627 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve			41.94		Summit Racing
659020 - Russell 18" STRAIT #4 TO STRAIT #4 Brake Hose Assemblies	18.99	2	37.98		Summit Racing
Tax			9.11		Summit Racing, tax 9.11, total 130.51

 

[Captain Dave]

I put braided stainless lines on... copying what others had already figured out.

11351 - Vibrant Performance -4AN TO 1/8NPT MALE SWIVEL 90 Adapter Fittings	13.95	2	27.90		Summit Racing
10251A - Vibrant Performance AN to NPT Adapter Fittings,	6.79	2	13.58		Summit Racing
260-12627 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve			41.94		Summit Racing
659020 - Russell 18" STRAIT #4 TO STRAIT #4 Brake Hose Assemblies	18.99	2	37.98		Summit Racing
Tax			9.11		Summit Racing, tax 9.11, total 130.51

I am unfamiliar with the brake proportioning valve. Is that something that is necessary just to use these brake lines or is that more of a performance upgrade?

 

[Gtstorey]

The proportioning valve isn't necessary, although might be good to have. You can do braided lines from the reservoir to the master cylinder without it. You are less likely to have leaks with the braided lines.

 

[Scott #321]

I ran for about a year without the proportioning valve and didn't see the need for....... Until I started competing in autocross where I was using the brakes very hard. IMHO you will probably not notice the need for it on the street unless you wind up in a panic braking situation where it really shows its merit. After experiencing hard driving in the vehicle I would not feel comfortable without one just for the what if situation.

 

[Rttoys]

The lines from the reservoir to the master base need to be as low as possible. Fluid does not like to travel up hill on its own.

You don’t need the prop valve until you do. One panic stop and you’ll find out quickly its needed.

 

[Ross]

That proportioning valve was ordered before DF offered their solution. The DF solution includes all the custom brake lines, so if you are going to add one, and don't want to make your own brake lines, I would recommend it.

No, it isn't needed for replacing the reservoir lines. If you want to stop faster, and more in control, then it is recommended.

 

[Captain Dave]

Proportioning valve it is! I know when to listen to the majority.

Next question, I just received the rear coil over kit from DF. The kit comes with 400lb springs and the front set I have are 300lb. The video says to use 400lb springs in the front. Does that mean I need to buy another set of 400lbers or does the 300lb springs from the front just transfer to the rear?

 

[Gtstorey]

Proportioning valve it is! I know when to listen to the majority.

Next question, I just received the rear coil over kit from DF. The kit comes with 400lb springs and the front set I have are 300lb. The video says to use 400lb springs in the front. Does that mean I need to buy another set of 400lbers or does the 300lb springs from the front just transfer to the rear?

Swap them.

 

[Rttoys]

400f
300r