V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[jirwin]

Yeah at that price I think I'll just return the springs. Wasn't looking to spend $600-700 just for a maybe slightly better ride quality. I am kinda worried now that putting 100lb stiffer springs on front is just going to make it worse as far as ride quality goes though. I did a search and I couldn't find 7 3/4 progressive shocks in a similar weight.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

You can still find the QAs for about $245 each on eBay.

 

[Ross]

The front springs are mounted at an angle. That is why they are stiffer springs than the rear springs, which are almost vertical.
The front wheels of a goblin are suspended softer than the rears.

 

[Gtstorey]

I assume you have tried adjusting the hydraulic settings on the coil overs?

 

[jirwin]

I assume you have tried adjusting the hydraulic settings on the coil overs?

Not really. I set them to whatever was recommended years ago when I built it and just left it there. I'll play around with it some more when I swap the springs tonight

 

[Rttoys]

I run my front adjusters about less than half way up on the street and almost all the way up on track.

 

[jirwin]

Is there an easy way to get axles out? I've done this 3 or 4 times now and it's always been beating the f&$# out of it with a hammer, while having prybar tension, randomly rotating it a few degrees at a time until it lines up properly and finally let's go

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yep, that's it. Maybe not so much beating on it, but the big pry bar and rotating until the C-clip gets into the right position to let go.

 

[SmsDetroit]

I’ve always just used a pry bar between the axle and trans and used a sharp popping motion. Seems to work well for me

 

[Rttoys]

I’ve always just used a pry bar between the axle and trans and used a sharp popping motion. Seems to work well for me

Same. But it can be a B sometimes.

 

[Mahkoi]

I've heard of doing it with a cut socket and impact but never tried it that way. I was going to give it a try the next time I ran into one that gave me issues.

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[jirwin]

Still no luck. Giant pry bar, hammer, etc. I got a slide hammer thing to try to apply equal pressure evenly. I'm just going to spend a few minutes multiple times a day wailing on it I guess

 

[Gtstorey]

How big is the prybar you have tried? I've never had any problem popping one loose with a 4ft bar.

 

[jirwin]

3ft. I'm not weak and I'm not crazy either haha. I took a break on passengers side and tried drivers. Haven't tried it yet. One whack. One. It popped right out

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Rotate the axle stub to change the position of the opening in the C-clip. It does make a difference.

 

[Rttoys]

Can you access the right axle through the trans hole of the Dr side? Might be able to get a rod in there and hit it with a hammer.

 

[Gtstorey]

Do I remember correctly and one of the ways to indentify a lsd was to not be able to see through the hole from one side to the other? Or maybe it was the non lsd that you could not see through? Or am I dreaming this up?

 

[jirwin]

I remember reading about that too. Mine is an F23 with Quaife LSD. I already out the other axle in or else I'd check to see if I could see thru it. No luck still with the passenger side. Just going to have to keep at it until I get lucky I guess

 

[Rauq]

Rotate the axle stub to change the position of the opening in the C-clip. It does make a difference.

This is what's always worked for me, in combination with pushing the axle back in a smidge if it'll go. The C-clip acts like it doesn't want to move if it's still bound up between its groove and the diff splines.

 

[Ross]

I hope you don't have metal transfer going on in the differential.