Traé
Well-Known Member
I will check again. Am I able to rotate the engine as I’m testing and see if it seals at some point? Or will that lead to skewed results?
Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)
- Thread starter Traé
- Start date
Markm
Well-Known Member
I wouldn’t advise trying to turn the engine with pressure on the cylinder cause it’ll probably end in injury when the engine rotates and tools fly
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
If you get the 3.0” pulley and 42# injectors then I have a then you can mirror. I’m sure just about any configuration someone on here has a tune you can mirror.
Also, HPTuner has a large catalog of tunes.
Figure out your injector size and type, then You can go from there. If you do end up going all to stock it’s not the end of the world. It’ll still be stupid fast.
HPT only has stock files in their repository. You might luck up and find one posted in their forum that matches, but I would only consider something like that as a place to start, not a finished tune.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Yes. That would also be true for any of our tunes as well.
Traé
Well-Known Member
I didn’t have time for another leak down test but I pulled the injectors…surprisingly easy. Injectors installed seem to be 60# injectors. They are Deka 107961. (Picture attached)
I vacuumed off the area and reinstalled. Started it back up and put a screwdriver on each injector to listen. They all sounded the same and consistent to one another.
The previous owner did say it needed a tune but I still need to solve the issue of cylinder 1. As I mentioned I have a head gasket and a valve cover gasket kit coming. I’m going to hold off on the head gasket until I have the engine pulled and start with the valve cover and spark plug O-ring gaskets and see if that fixes my issue with leaky cylinder 1.
This weekend I will try to find a bore scope and get some pictures of each cylinder for further diagnosis.
I’ll look into getting a tuner and I found a post from Ross with a load of tunes.
I vacuumed off the area and reinstalled. Started it back up and put a screwdriver on each injector to listen. They all sounded the same and consistent to one another.
The previous owner did say it needed a tune but I still need to solve the issue of cylinder 1. As I mentioned I have a head gasket and a valve cover gasket kit coming. I’m going to hold off on the head gasket until I have the engine pulled and start with the valve cover and spark plug O-ring gaskets and see if that fixes my issue with leaky cylinder 1.
This weekend I will try to find a bore scope and get some pictures of each cylinder for further diagnosis.
I’ll look into getting a tuner and I found a post from Ross with a load of tunes.
Attachments
Traé
Well-Known Member
the timing chain will need done, I plan to do that along with new guides and a Dorman bolt. From the little work I did today I’ll hold off on the head gasket.
Goblinfanclub1234
Well-Known Member
here are a few parts that should be replaced in the timing, its pretty easy to do, if i had a time machine i would tell myself to do this before finishing the car doh!, they tend to break off. mine did and it was a huge pain to fix
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
The wise old sasquatch speaks truth, he has seen many moons, the grasshopper would do well to listen. There is no one to get ahead of but yourself! blah, blah, blah... Yeah, Everything has a value and if ya don't consider worn out chains, guides and such you could be fixing your way into a money pit! Though it takes some effort, it IS possible to spend more on the repairs than an engine is worth! There are sources for complete new engines. I don't know how much but they can be bought and when you consider parts and labor costs plus removal and reinstallation costs, it can really stack up.As @ah.b.normal stated, don't uncork your engine unless you know there is a definable problem. From the information you've provided so far, you're not there yet - and tearing things apart to replace a head gasket, especially based on arbitrary information from other sources for a (maybe) similar problem someone else had, is more likely to create more problems than your trying to solve in the first place. Step through the problem, making one change at a time and check results - and follow the recommendations that the knowledgeable builders who are available on the Goblin forum have to offer. Building a Goblin is a journey and must be made one step at a time.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
We keep talking "in general". Define some stuff for your helpers. Year, model, ETC. How many miles are on this engine? How sure are you about it's history? Like "I've known it since my Dad bought it at 60K miles. It became my donor at 110K miles." or "this is the Lump that came in my donor. The donor showed 300,000 mi and had half a tank of diesel, mis matched headlights, blue manual passenger door, several giant Metallica Tour 2015 decals covering the fractured rear window, one leather seat, the sunroof leaked, it contained about 300lbs of fast food trash, had 3 mismatched nearly bald tires(one snow tire recap) on steel rims and was running a mini spare you could see the air in from 10' away as the fourth and no battery. But the air gauge I found in the glove box works!"
Traé
Well-Known Member
06’ SS/SC with 152k & G85. The car is in decent shape and looks mildly taken care of. Was told it needed a tune but “ran fine” which seems to be the case (pending what I find with more engine diagnosis). The interior is clean other that expected wear from being almost 18 years old. Maintenance is not known as the person I bought it from did not have it long. I need to pick through things and figure out these issues as it seems the young chap I bought it from didnt want to mess with it or know much about the car at all. Had mild damage from hitting a deer which made taking the front bumper off fairly easy.
From the upgrades thrown on it seems he didn’t take all the right steps. From looking through different components I think everything is there for a stage 2 upgrade just needing a tune.
For me the price was right and I went into this donor accepting of possibly needing to pull an engine from somewhere.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
From the available info on engine health I would checkout the timing set. Life on these sets seems to max out at about 160K. I believe it is recommended to replace it at 120K?(This is from memory and I've worked on a lot of different cars, please look that up and tell me what you find, Thank You) If you pull the cover and find no broken guides, check them for wear. I don't think I have heard of anyone on this forum finding no broken/heavily worn guides as most discussed were probably over 120K. Though I believe some found newly replaced chains and gears which brought great joy. This is not a scientific survey, this is just what I believe I recall seeing on this forum and Cobalt SS forum. Plus I'm an old guy and clearly remember when they first came in to general usage that cog belts running OHC systems were originally slated for replacement at 60K then 80K and I believe 80-100K is now the standard. (But everything else in my stable has pushrods so this doesn't apply to me.)
Find a cobalt manual, it will have recommended intervals for services like timing chains.
)Find a cobalt manual, it will have recommended intervals for services like timing chains.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
Did I mention a new engine will have a warranty? I'm not in the engine biz but I must say sometimes the peace of mind of a warranty is worth about half of what you paid for the engine!!
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
You laugh, I've bought that car! It was very cheap, it donated the parts I needed and years later that air gauge still works!
Oh, and thank heavens my Tetnus booster was up to date!
Traé
Well-Known Member
Hey! Whatever gets you what you need. Just chuckling at the description of all that was inside / on the car.You laugh, I've bought that car! It was very cheap, it donated the parts I needed and years later that air gauge still works!
Traé
Well-Known Member
We will see how this one goes. I’m very interested in getting everything check out and learning as much as possible with diagnosing along the way.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
I’m pleased to hear it!
Learning is the pathway to true adventure! (Quote: Sophomore)
Traé
Well-Known Member
Pulled valve cover to replace gaskets and noticed milky sludge in the front right rectangular port closest to the front of the car. When everything was back together cylinder 1 passed but cylinder 4 now fails a leak down test. I am puzzled.
Running to get a scope now to look inside.
Air now leaks from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3. Just like it was on cylinder 1. I also noticed air coming from dip stick and the hose connection on the top left back of the engine leading to the intake.
Running to get a scope now to look inside.
Air now leaks from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3. Just like it was on cylinder 1. I also noticed air coming from dip stick and the hose connection on the top left back of the engine leading to the intake.
