V1 461 Electrical Issues

[Fenix Nexen]

Updated 9/17

Starting a new thread here as it seems all that is left to fix is purely electrical. I will be editing this first post as I gather information or information is given to me.

Pre-examination notes
I am unable to do testing today 9/14 I have off tomorrow 9/15 of which I can respond and start various tests. Headlamps can be ignored for now as that feels like the biggest headache at the moment
My donor is a 2010 Base Automatic
I am using DF suppled button panels
I do not have the TPMS/Keyfob module plugged in
I do not have a center stop light
Turn signals for mirror lights and tail lights work
Reverse lights work
Dash lights work
Shifter light works and assumed to be behaving normally

What doesn't work
Ignition switch allows ignition but disallows turning the key from ON to OFF as the solenoid does not actuate
Headlamps are too dim on one side and too bright on the other. One side may be functioning correctly while the other gets too hot and bright.
Shifter does not allow shifting out of park. Shifter solenoid unresponsive after pressing brake pedal all the way down.
Cruise control does not work.

Engine Codes
All current engine codes only relate to evap and cat delete. There is one code for fuel tank pressure. Thats it.

Ignition switch
I see the solenoid twitch but aside from that, it does not want to let the key go.

Headlamps are on pause for now
The headlamps are currently unplugged and will need to be plugged back in for testing
Replacing a blown fuse and grounding the second mystery ground wire on the passenger side seems to have fixed things.

Shifter
Shifter does not actuate the solenoid when brake is pressed, resulting in no shift condition. Bypass by manually actuating the solenoid but this is not a good fix.

Cruise Control
I have read over
Cruise control does not work. Using DF supplied button panels. All panel buttons work aside from cruise control. A resistor is hooked in to the blue middle stop light wire then to ground.

The resistor gets way too hot after 5 minutes of driving and cruise control does not function. I have looked over these threads but have not tested just yet. First test tomorrow 9/15 will check the wiring to the buttons DF provided.
Cruise Control works now
Problem was brake switch needed to be loosened and adjusted. My brake lights would kick on after not touching the brakes for ~5 seconds. Loosening the bolt on the switch and fiddling with it makes the switch behave as it should now. As a result, cruise control works now, and I have a center stop light now.

Button Panel Resistors

For the builders that are doing their own button panels we can send you a set of resistors with the proper values. $10 plus shipping The 715 ohm and one of the 1270 ohm resistors is not used if you have the early model donors with the info and return buttons located on the dash. You will need...

dfkitcar.com

V1 - Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

That is where the hottest coolant leaves the head, and the engine will heat the coolant, even if the thermostat is closed. How can there be flow if the thermostat is closed and no water leaves the head to the front radiator? I'm sure it is, otherwise why would the GM engineers put it at this...

dfkitcar.com

LED Headlight, Turn Signal & Brake Wiring

Full disclosure: this is not my realm of expertise, I'm effectively handicapped when it comes to understanding some of this stuff but I could use your help! I'm not using the standard headlights, sideview mirrors, or rear lights and this creates a 'fun' opportunity for me. While searching...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Gtstorey]

You probably need to pick one at a time.

As a first step you might want to remove any components that aren’t working and apply power to them straight from a battery to confirm the problem is on the wiring side and not the component.
I have the service manual so I have the oem wiring diagram but I don’t remember anything about the colors that ended up actually feeding the headlights.

I don’t think the resistor by itself going to ground was supposed to work. It was supposed to be in series with a light. This is from memory only so it could be that it was in series instead.

But I won’t try to work through a problem watching videos though. They never show as much as people think.
Draw out any electrical measurements with wire colors so we can really see what is going on.

 

[Ark :D]

The resistor to ground works fine, it's how mine is wired.

 

[Joebob]

Let me take a stab at this:

1. Ignition switch: From my understanding, the switch will not let you take the key out if you a) have no power to the switch or b) leave the car in gear. I would check that you have power to the solenoid in the wiring and may also be related to the wiring to the shifter no activating the brake shift interlock. Again check from the plugs that you are getting the correct power on the correct wires at the correct function. Then as others said, check with a 12v source, that the solenoids themselves work by actuating them manually.

2. Shift solenoid: Have you confirmed that your brake switch works? Not on when you are not pressing the pedal and on when you push the pedal? I and others had an issue where the brake lights were always on and for me it was to slightly loosen the switch above the pedal to give a bit of wiggle room to turn off. This may affect shift interlock and cruise. Again, ensure power is getting where it is supposed to. The shift wiring had to be extended 12" or so so there are many splices that could be bad.

3. No cruise: May or may not be the issue, but you have to be going 25mph+ to engage the system. Second, the resistor should not get hot while driving. it should be wired to the third brake light wire and then to ground but the third brake light should only get power while the brakes are engaged. If the brake light switch is always engaged, then this will make the resistor hot and prevent cruise from engaging as braking always pauses the system.

4. Headlights: Saved the best for last. I think you need to unwrap and inspect the wiring, I highly suspect you are feeding the system wrong. Again, confirm grounds are ground, low and high beams only are powered when called upon. Any cross issues are a wiring issue as I don't think there are separate circuits for the left and right headlights.

Good luck.

Joe

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Update: Cruise control works now!
Tests done: Check if brake lights are on while driving and not using the brake pedal. Used a center brake light visible from rear mirror. Observed lights kick on after 3~5 seconds of not touching the brakes while actively driving. I saw someone mention this issue of their cruise control working intermittently and on road testing showed the issue to be the brake switch.
Issue fixed: Brake potentiometer switch needed to be loosened and adjusted. It is a rather finnicky switch it seems.
Updated main post. Off to work, 1 less thing to worry about

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Update: Headlights both work properly now, fuse was changed, second mystery ground over on passenger side used and tied with the other. Not sure if that was the cause. Will have to do some night time testing to make sure things are right. Make sure nothing gets too hot. That leaves the ignition solenoid and shifter solenoid left.