A “smaller” project car.

[Metal Mech]

So this is technically a kit car haha.
I am currently building a 1/8 scale Porsche 917KH.
The build is split up into 12 stages and I am currently in the middle of stage 6.
Right now I’m adding the spark plug wires. So far I have complete 12 of the 24.
Once I get all those done I can mount the engine into the chassis.

 

[Joebob]

Motor swap it!

https://www.stirlingkit.com/products/toyan-v8-fs-v800-28cc-engine-rtr-nitro-engine-model-kits-with-supercharger?variant=43666774819029

 

[Mahkoi]

Don't forget to save your e-brake cable tubes.

 

[Metal Mech]

I have always wanted to build one of those. So expensive though. Of course I say that when the kit I’m building isn’t cheap either haha

 

[Ark :D]

RC cars are a hobby I desperately must stay away from. I already have too many expensive hobbies, haha!

 

[Metal Mech]

RC cars are a hobby I desperately must stay away from. I already have too many expensive hobbies, haha!

Yeah this isn’t a RC car just a detailed model. Already a thread I started about my RC cars. I won’t mention the one I have over $800 invested in but still never driven……

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Sounds like a few Goblins I know of...lots of money invested, still sitting on jackstands in the garage.

 

[Stretch2126]

Does it come with a little engine hoist?

 

[Metal Mech]

Does it come with a little engine hoist?

Nope but you can get one on Amazon

Amazon.com

 

[Rttoys]

Sounds like a few Goblins I know of...lots of money invested, still sitting on jackstands in the garage.

.

 

[Metal Mech]

Well I finished the spark plug wires. Got the engine mounted to the chassis. Installed to other side frame. Went to install the rear frame and realized I glued some parts on wrong.
If anyone has a good trick for removing super glue from metal/plastic I’ll give it a try. Otherwise I’m gonna have to order replacement parts.
I can move forward building the rear suspension but won’t be able to bolt it to the chassis till I get this fixed.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

From metal - acetone, but this will eat most plastic.

 

[Joebob]

Not that I have used but might try this:

Amazon.com

Joe

 

[Metal Mech]

Might still give it a try. If I’m carefully I might salvage enough plastic to glue it back in. It’s just pegs that the glue is on.

 

[Metal Mech]

Not that I have used but might try this:

Amazon.com

Joe

I have one of those. Always a possible option but may not get the item glued back on properly if I cut it. This will be a last ditch effort.

 

[Metal Mech]

For reference these are the parts in question.

 

[Joebob]

What is it supposed to look like?

 

[Metal Mech]

What is it supposed to look like?

It’s supposed to look just like the top picture but on the other side. There are notches in the frame that line up with other parts so I can’t install it backward.

 

[Joebob]

So the plastic blue pieces are supposed to be glued to the black plastic/metal x brace as shown but on the other side of the brace?
Is the glue only on the dabbed end or the length of the pin on the blue piece?
is the glued portion visible after the model is complete?

If the glue is on the end, I would use a drill bit by hand and drill out the plastic pin until it releases. New glue will make it stick even if the pin is totally removed. Acetone or an Xacto knife to clean up the X brace and maybe some touch up paint.

 

[Metal Mech]

Glue is length of peg as I dabbed it in the hole on the frame. I may still try the drill method. I have all kinds of extra screw with this kit. Almost wondering if I drill it out if can use some extra screws with glue and make it work. The “backside” will be visable initially. Not sure if it will be hidden later by more parts. Probably only noticeable when the engine cover comes off but that will be rare.
I always found it interesting when models kits have all this detail only for most of hit to be hidden later on.
I chalk it up to different people displaying kits differently.