V1 Andrew's track ext 06 SS build #151 OHIO REGISTERED

[Ross]

Were the bushing difficult to install? Do you need a press or special tools?

O'Reilly Auto Parts can rent you a wheel bearing press (for free, but it was about $450 deposit) for this.

 

[Indy Lonnie]

I used 2 Harbor Freight tools, Ball Joint kit and adapters. Look for the 20% or 25% off coupons!
The hard part was getting the original pieces out. The second hard part was getting the new pieces in. It took me an entire evening and a cheater bar on the press. It worked but sucked, a lot... The aluminum joints in the turbo aluminum control arm did not want to come apart. My car was from Indiana and we use a lot of salt on the roads in winter. I took my hubs to Lonny to re-drill the bolt pattern when I picked up my kit. He had never seen donor parts look like that being from Texas. Salt is nasty on parts! In my case, the salt seemed to have glued the aluminum outer ring of the bushing to the aluminum control arm.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Already posted a better prrooces herehis: Murcielago311's City/standard build - 06 SS/SC - Chassis #177

 

[Vwsaabvt]

Anyone else murder their frame with the water pump cover bolts? Its in though.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

So sorry I would hate to have that happen as I’m very sure you do

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ouch. Powder coat? Maybe find some fingernail polish in the matching color? It comes in every color imaginable, is glossy and should seal the scratches against water intrusion.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

So sorry I would hate to have that happen as I’m very sure you do

Ehh, it probably won't be the last time.

Ouch. Powder coat? Maybe find some fingernail polish in the matching color? It comes in every color imaginable, is glossy and should seal the scratches against water intrusion.

yeah, powder coat. Ill find something close, It's not in a super visible spot anyways.

 

[JBINTX]

Ehh, it probably won't be the last time.


yeah, powder coat. Ill find something close, It's not in a super visible spot anyways.

You will do something similar when installing the seats. Hard to avoid.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

Haven't updated for a while.
I have it sitting on wheels, just have to get the brakes on and I can bleed the clutch and brakes then lay the wiring in. I picked up the same braided lines that Jeff put on his for the resevoir to master cylinder

Not gonna meet my goal for first start by the end of this month, but hopefully next month. I've been too busy working on everyone else's stuff to work on my own. So the goblin got pushed into the corner and is in timeout again.

The goblin was a good excuse to buy a truck though, since I am going to need to trailer it up to zzp by the end of the year hopefully.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

You will do something similar when installing the seats. Hard to avoid.

I scratched my powder coat doing the seats at least the side panels Will cover it up. Don’t even ask how I scratched the outside

 

[Vwsaabvt]

I scratched my powder coat doing the seats at least the side panels Will cover it up. Don’t even ask how I scratched the outside

slap some clear nail polish on it and call it good.

 

[Ark :D]

I'm sure we've all got some little dings here and there in our powder coat. I managed to bang mine up a little bit on the return trip home from the powder coater, there was a speed bump and it managed to bounce the frame a little bit and my bungee job wasn't good enough to keep it off the front wall of the trailer.

 

[Indy Lonnie]

Wait until you start working with the engine cover... You'll get good at it after the 50th time you put it on fitting it.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

It runs, I posted to the facebook groups a while ago with the video too.

Wouldn't crank at first, found that I didnt have the engine grounded well enough. I'm going to run the ground cable from a bellhousing bolt to the frame.

After figuring that out it would crank but not start, I thought I may have put the cam sensor in 180* out of time, so I pulled that out and moved it 180* while pouring oil on my new transmission and painted engine.

Still no start, swap the coil harness with the other plug that fits the same, move the cam sensor back to where it originally was and hey it starts.

Now I need to get all my coolant lines plumbed, intake put in, install the tunnel cap, get the shifter all set and I'll be able to get my first drive.

Body panels are at the body shop for paint, the Ronies have my 5 point harness' held up in shipping for now. My goal is to maybe end up at the ecotechnation tail of dragon drive in October if work slows down. I've worked 10-12hrs days every weekday since May.

 

[Murcielago311]

Just a heads up, if there is a possibility at all your cam sensor is still 180° out, I'd make the next few starts with ear protection. I got two regular starts and then a huge afterfire on the third start with mine 180'd.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

Well teflon tape didn't work for the heat exchanger fittings. Time for something different.

 

[Murcielago311]

I know some builders are using thread sealant. I used Loctite like on the DF video for the radiator install.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

I grabbed some permatex seal and lock.

Where is everyone routing their hose from the thermostat housing to coolant reservoir? things are getting pretty tight on that side of the engine bay.

 

[Murcielago311]

I think this is one of those personal preference type items, but I ran around the fuse box and I like it. The area under the fuse box is kind of tight and wanted to keep the shift arms clear. (Ignore the brake booster circle in pic)

 

[Rttoys]

it looks like you have the same doner

I used an old Goodyear hose I had at the office. It’s a heater hose off a 98 c2500 Truck. goodyear got bought out by continental and I think they got bought out by Gates?

anyways the old Goodyear/continental number is 63936. Cut it down and it looks like it belongs there.

gates number 28471