V1 ccgillett's Track Goblin - '08 SS/TC

[ccgillett]

Red circle wire, Follow it to where it ends. Should be block or trans. If I remember correctly. That would be a ground then. Just making sure. Others have mixed the powers and grounds. Just making sure.

here’s the stud on mine. Need to confirm with a tc one of they are different or newer ones are different. There may be one somewhere else, but that’s where it is on mine.



View attachment 48974

Ok this is great information, thank you! This being a very really frame/kit they didn't have TC specific fittings, etc. I think I can drill a whole for a stud in my frame. Just gotta get the powder coat off the metal.

 

[Rttoys]

Just looked at your sig since I’m on my iPad instead of phone and ya, you have a very early one. Add a ground stud.

 

[Gtstorey]

No way I would use a self tapping screw for a major ground. If you are talking about all of the grounds that come off the fuse box, find something better, even if you have to extend the wires.

 

[Markm]

You could drill a hole through where you have the yellow circle and use a nut and bolt. The newer chassis with the welded stud are 5/16-18.

 

[baustin]

Just looked at your sig since I’m on my iPad instead of phone and ya, you have a very early one. Add a ground stud.

FYI, on phone just rotate your screen and you'll see signatures too. They aren't shown in portrait but are shown in landscape on the phone layout.

 

[Robinjo]

I did this because my grounding stud broke off. I think I had a nut cross threaded and snapped it. I hid it under the fuse box.

 

[Rttoys]

FYI, on phone just rotate your screen and you'll see signatures too. They aren't shown in portrait but are shown in landscape on the phone layout.

I think you have said that before and I usually do that when needed, but I just didn’t think he had that early of a production one.

 

[ccgillett]

Got the ground stud installed, and connected all the wires. Charged the battery, connected the hot wire to the fusebox. Did a quick check to see if the car was electrically alive, and I see it come up and display odometer and outside temperature, which seems like a good thing.

Tried to do a start with no fuel or priming just to see if it would try to crank and it seems dead. I don't hear the fuel pump, hitting the throttle pedal does nothing. When I try to crank the yellow "lock" light (which I think is a security thing) comes on briefly, then it looks like everything reboots.

Looking for some general direction on where to start debugging.

Video:

 

[ccgillett]

I forgot to a connection up front, which I've reconnected,:

With that done I get some better noises and I can hear the butterfly opening and closing (presumably) when I press the accelerator pedal.

I think the whining might be the fuel pump, but I don't know for sure.

Another video:

 

[comegetjoe]

Pretty sure that's the BCM power you connected, pretty important.

You have no guage lighting and only one yellow light in the center of the cluster from what I can see.

I also don't hear any of your fans kick on. With the wiring kit done from DF, my heat exchanger fan comes on with KEY ON.

I just popped out to mine to take the Pic and note a difference between ours.

 

[ccgillett]

The white plug on the BCM is loose and looks like I didn't install it right. The cabling from the blue plug is interfering, so I'm going to disconnect and reconnect those plugs:

Also up front is this plug, and I've forgotten its purpose, can anybody remind me:

@comegetjoe Good point about the radiator fan, I wonder if that loose BCM plug explains that. I don't have the intercooler heat exchanger in its fan installed yet.

 

[comegetjoe]

The white plug on the BCM is loose and looks like I didn't install it right. The cabling from the blue plug is interfering, so I'm going to disconnect and reconnect those plugs:
View attachment 49095View attachment 49096

Also up front is this plug, and I've forgotten its purpose, can anybody remind me:
View attachment 49097View attachment 49098

@comegetjoe Good point about the radiator fan, I wonder if that loose BCM plug explains that. I don't have the intercooler heat exchanger in its fan installed yet.

I was just thinking, I wonder if my daytimeght sensor is messed up and my guage lights are always on...hmmmm?

 

[Chris_WNC]

Does that connector say horn?

 

[ccgillett]

Ok, I took the BCM box off the front wall and that white connector appeared to be loose. Reconnected it as follows, behavior is still the same. Do those plugs look correct?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Can't quite see the condition of the wires coming out of the pins in the white connector. No exposed copper wire (missing insulation) and all the wires are firmly connected into the pins (a light tug - very light - to ensure the wire will not pull out)?

Since you have the BCM accessible, check the continuity of the fuses with a meter (power off) to be certain none are blown.

 

[ccgillett]

I noticed yesterday while doing some testing that the ODB-II port is not energized...my code scanner cannot connect successfully (neither of them, I have 2).

This suggests to me that something "up front" is fubar'd... anybody agree with me?

In other news, I confirmed the new ground stud (underneath the engine fusebox) works well. I'll confirm the other grounding points tonight after some longer multimeter cables with alligator clips arrive from Amazon.

 

[Ark :D]

I have two different code readers that won't read the Goblin. Third time was the charm though.

Did your code scanner previously work?

 

[Gtstorey]

What do you mean by "ODB-II port is not energized "? The power/ground is not connected or powered, or the data wires are not receiving data?

 

[ccgillett]

What do you mean by "ODB-II port is not energized "? The power/ground is not connected or powered, or the data wires are not receiving data?

"Energized" might be a poor word choice. The scanner isn't able to receive data, so I was assuming it was a power issue. I could be wrong though.

I've not scanned the car before.

 

[ccgillett]

Soooo back at it today, looking to pass that crank test. I decided to go back to basics, and begin by verifying all my grounds. First order business, however, was to make sure that the engine fuse box and the front body control module were all hooked up correctly.

I spent some time making sure the engine fuse box was fully mated to the multi-plugs. I had made the screws just a little more than finger tight in the past, this time I really cranked them down. I also verified that the plugs that connect the body control module to the rest of the vehicle were fully seated and clamped down. Next, I went to every single relay and fuse in the fuse box and on the body control module and made sure everything was fully seated. A couple of them move down a tiny bit which makes me wonder if they weren't fully engaged.

I was very surprised after doing that, that the full dashboard appeared to come up, meaning that all the idiot lights that previously were not illuminated came on.

With the dashboard alive, I pressed in the clutch pedal to flip the clutch safety switch, and turned the key. The fuel pump tried to prime, and the engine turned over!

I tried the test again to see if it was repeatable, and it tried to crank again in the battery immediately died. That's no surprise, it's on the charger now. So I can repeat the test again I believe the next step is to put some fuel in the tank, verify no fuel system leaks, and try to start it.

Holy **** I'm stoked! I am sure I'll have a lot more questions, but just wanted to say I'm grateful to everybody who has answered all of my questions so far. I'm far from done, but this is really exciting.