V1 Connors street Goblin #400 sc 07

[Rauq]

Backup Lamp Switch: Diagrams — 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt L4-2.0L SC Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt L4-2.0L SC.

charm.li

Pink and light green. If you leave the wires open then the reverse light will never come on. I don't think there are any other implications.

Rather than waiting for folks to answer some of these questions, have you tried the search function at the top of the page? Charm.li has nearly every wiring diagram and schematic as well. If you're interested, I can lay some of that out further for you. Happy to help!

 

[At4Connor]

Not sure if I’m expecting more out of an engine that can’t give more but I’m gonna say my goblin is slow from the videos I’ve seen. I have a supercharged goblin with the f23 transmission. It has smaller pulley and some other things but it struggles to hit 85-90. Not sure if something is holding it back or what. Anybody have any suggestions on what could be going on?

 

[Rttoys]

What is your boost getting to? When my boost solenoid was messed up, I have 5psi or something and no power. I cruise on the freeway at 80-90, there’s plenty of pedal let for faster.

 

[At4Connor]

What is your boost getting to? When my boost solenoid was messed up, I have 5psi or something and no power. I cruise on the freeway at 80-90, there’s plenty of pedal let for faster.

I’ll have to check. I don’t have a gauge or anything hooked up to tell. Is the boost solenoid the black thing with 2 hoses going into it? Also I did get rid of the supercharger bypass solenoid if that’s of any concern?

 

[Rttoys]

Yes that should be it. There is a way to bypass it, I just don’t remember how or if that mod works. Hooking up the gauge helps a lot. If mine ever feels low on power, that’s the first thing I look at.

 

[At4Connor]

Update. I tried the bypass mod for the supercharger and now she screams well over triple digits. Car is a lot more fun to drive now. Crazy fast down low. Butttt…. It blew the dipstick up and oil sprayed everywhere. Also I don’t want to leave the bypass mod so I put a new bypass solenoid on and it still doesn’t want to build boost with everything hooked up right. Does that mean the diaphragm is bad? Any suggestions on how to fix both these problems? Btw I had the little piece of foam on bypass solenoid so only one port had a hose on the one side.

 

[Rttoys]

The dipstick problem could be from a restricted exhaust, very excessive blow by or boost when you shouldn’t have it (bypass mod).

Could be you need to clear the trouble codes, the diaphragm is leaking, hoses leaking or vacuum hose may not be connected at the intake.

use photo for hose reference

 

[Robinjo]

There is a video on the YouTube on how to check the diaphragm. I think it basically was to push the plunger in and check both ports. You plug port 1 up with your finger and if it doesn't hold well, it's bad. Then repeat for port 2

On the dipstick, do you have the port on the backside of the engine blocked?

 

[At4Connor]

There is a video on the YouTube on how to check the diaphragm. I think it basically was to push the plunger in and check both ports. You plug port 1 up with your finger and if it doesn't hold well, it's bad. Then repeat for port 2

On the dipstick, do you have the port on the backside of the engine blocked?

If you’re talking about the port that has a hose that goes to the intake. I have it routed to the intake. I am getting a catch can also and a breather vent cap for the oil cap. I’m just wondering why it doesn’t want to build boost with everything hooked up correctly and in working order. The solenoid seems to check out but I have one of the ports still open on the solenoid(foam piece port)

 

[Robinjo]

If you’re talking about the port that has a hose that goes to the intake. I have it routed to the intake. I am getting a catch can also and a breather vent cap for the oil cap. I’m just wondering why it doesn’t want to build boost with everything hooked up correctly and in working order. The solenoid seems to check out but I have one of the ports still open on the solenoid(foam piece port)

Ok, that was just one idea that could be causing the DS to pop out.

Check out and test the diaphragm unit on the blower case. I bet it's old and crusty. If it's ok, I would consider just replacing the vacuum tubes. There are not very many of them. I had to zip tie some of mine on because they would leak a little.

 

[Rauq]

The short hose from the supercharger housing is all the bypass valve really needs to operate. If it makes boost with only that hose installed, and doesn't make boost with the bypass solenoid hooked up, then either the plumbing for the solenoid is goofy, or the PCM is for some reason calling for boost to be dumped all the time.

Does it make boost with the solenoid plumbed in and unplugged electrically?

 

[At4Connor]

Have recently been trying to track down a sound in my engine. Sounds exactly like this video and he’s got more of the noise videos. I have some chunks of metal in my oil pan. The noise is worse around 2000 RPM. Sounds like a bad chain rattle. I’ve taken the valve cover off many times to inspect and also taken the side panel off. All the chains are tight and timed correctly, and none of the guides are broken from what I can see. I also have replaced the tensioner. Any suggestions on what to do next. Compression is 175 in each cylinder.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

This could be any number of other anomalies not yet looked at from your description - cam/followers, the VVT actuators that could be putting metal particles into the oil. Do you have any engine codes? Any trouble starting or idling? No missing or rough running?

Listening to the video, it sounds like compression is blowing out of a spark plug - but that's just because I've had this before, but it wouldn't put metal into the oil. it's hard to say from another person's video what is the root cause of a same/similar sound.

If the doctor's diagnosis is terminal @RobC76 has an engine for sale. Shameless promotion....

 

[At4Connor]

This could be any number of other anomalies not yet looked at from your description - cam/followers, the VVT actuators that could be putting metal particles into the oil. Do you have any engine codes? Any trouble starting or idling? No missing or rough running?

Listening to the video, it sounds like compression is blowing out of a spark plug - but that's just because I've had this before, but it wouldn't put metal into the oil. it's hard to say from another person's video what is the root cause of a same/similar sound.

If the doctor's diagnosis is terminal @RobC76 has an engine for sale. Shameless promotion....

No engine codes, idles perfect and runs perfect just has that bad rattle. Cams look alright and lifters look great.

 

[At4Connor]

This is exactly what it sounds like around 2k rpms

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

That does sound timing chain related, since the noise changes with RPM. It does sound like chain slap/rattle, but you said you have replaced the obvious parts. What about the cam gears, are they worn or loose? The VVT actuators are at that end of the cams. These do wear out, could be one or both are cycling at the 2000 RPM trying to activate?

Edit: Or not for the VVT. I don't see these in the valve cover - scratch that idea.

 

[At4Connor]

Cams gears look like new.