V1 Cooling suggestion?

[Ross]

Those water to oil coolers should work nicely. Like Dale said, you increased the amount of oil in your system, from the extra oil lines. I have heard that the stock oil to water cooler does sometimes leak, so maybe an aftermarket one might be more reliable.

Dale, the stock Cobalt has this water to oil cooler. David bought his goblin, and it came with a non-temperature regulated oil to air cooler.
Desert Sasqwatch and I have pointed out that an oil to water heat exchanger is better, as it regulates the oil temperature.
Yes, there is a small benefit to removing the old laminova cores in the intake, but even better would be to switch out to an intake without a built in intercooler... the stock SC intake has a restrictive right turn, just before the head.

 

[David]

General questions for discussion and my old brain to clarify. And a few statements.

Yes, water to air oil coolers do work. I think you already have enough oil cooling that those are not necessary - only bling. Isn't the stock oil cooler a water to air one anyway? You already have, at least, the same or more oil cooler capacity than stock, plus with the longer lines you have more volume and the oil flow through the lines is also cooling a bit. Leave it like it is or tear it all apart and redo - your choice. Consider relocation of left pod oil cooler so it doesn't get the heat from the water to air fan blowing on it?

You seem to have three cooling systems on your Goblin. Normal radiator up front for engine cooling - adequate. The left pod oil cooler for oil - should be adequate. And three water to air coolers for the turbo/charge system? Two side pods and the one on top of the engine. That should be adequate. Oil has a peak temperature to be efficient. For racing a Revcon brand cools the best, but is not a good overall daily oil.

You mentioned that the cores in the old supercharger cooling system were bad?? Are the cores still in the housing? Would it be a benefit to the volume of forced induction to pull those out of the housing (they are a restriction now) -- or would it mess up the air flow turbulence and be no benefit?

My Stalker is cooled - to cold with the normal small radiator for it to be in it's efficient range sometimes.
You should strive for all systems to be at their best efficiency for best performance.

The issue is i dont have the original oil/water heat exchanger. Pervious owner installed a oil cooler on the driver side pod.

So a discussion @Ross and @Desert Sasqwatch where having was that the stock oil/water is better then the oil cooler I have.

So I determine that I was going to get the stock oil/water heat exchanger. Then I was thinking why not just a standalone oil/water heat exchanger and leave the coolant plate.

As for the the cores inside the manifold im not sure.

 

[David]

That was

Those water to oil coolers should work nicely. Like Dale said, you increased the amount of oil in your system, from the extra oil lines.

Dale, the stock Cobalt has this water to oil cooler. David bought his goblin, and it came with a non-temperature regulated oil to air cooler.
Desert Sasqwatch and I have pointed out that an oil to water heat exchanger is better, as it regulates the oil temperature.
Yes, there is a small benefit to removing the old laminova cores in the intake, but even better would be to switch out to an intake without a built in intercooler... the stock SC intake has a restrictive right turn, just before the head.

I was thinking of getting a new intake manifold. Just would have to repipe the FrozenBoost piping and get a new tune. Can't remember but someone had the Dyemond fab one.

Ecotec Intake Manifold — DyemondFab

Precision Engineering, Enhanced Performance The V2 LSJ Intake Manifold is an upgraded version of the original design, tailored for faster response and quicker spool —perfect for street/strip setups. Key Features: Optimized Design : Smaller plenum with an aerodynamic, form-fitting structur

www.dyemondfab.com

LSJ Turbo Intake Manifold

 

[Ross]

That dyemondFab one is nice bling. ZZP sells a Saab intake for $400ish... you probably could source one second hand for less...
Lots of choices!

 

[David]

That dyemondFab one is nice bling. ZZP sells a Saab intake for $400ish... you probably could source one second hand for less...
Lots of choices!

Nice that would save me the repipe. I wonder if there is any improvement over the lsj manifold.

 

[David]

@Ross you think there is a certain size that I should stick to? Don't want to cool the cool to much im assuming. I was thinking the 6" long thats what she said lol

Canton Racing Products Water to Oil Heat Exchangers

These internally baffled heat exchangers are designed to be installed inline with the cool side of the radiator system.

www.cantonracingproducts.com

 

[Ross]

I will answer for rodo...
I don't think you can cool the oil too much, because the water is the correct temperature, so it can only cool it down to the correct temp.

 

[David]

I will answer for rodo...
I don't think you can cool the oil too much, because the water is the correct temperature, so it can only cool it down to the correct temp.

Lol lol sorry guess I created a new member. Yea was thinking that, but then I thought if the O/W exchanger is to big will it cool it to fast while the thermostat is opened. Im guessing the thermostat is what opened that passage to the oil cooler correct? Or is that passage always opened? I never seen inside the water manifold to determine.

 

[Gtstorey]

I would install an oil temp gauge and see what your oil temps are actually doing before making any changes.

 

[David]

I would install an oil temp gauge and see what your oil temps are actually doing before making any changes.

Yes thats definitely on the list, going to do a pressure and temperature sensor. Just have to see where I can install it. I believe there is a plug on the galley but not sure its works with the turbo in the way.

 

[Ross]

The oil cooler's water lines connect to the top of the thermostat, so they are only active when the thermostat opens.
There is a plug on the LSJ block, below the oil filter, that is used with a M12x1.75 to 1/8"x27 NPT thread adapter to measure oil temp/pressure. This is the oil after the oil sump pump, but before the oil filter. Or maybe you can find a sensor with those metric threads.

 

[Gtstorey]

Yes thats definitely on the list, going to do a pressure and temperature sensor. Just have to see where I can install it. I believe there is a plug on the galley but not sure its works with the turbo in the way.

I used on that just replaces the oil drain plug. I think you would want to compare the oil temp in the pan near the pick up. Most vehicles that come stock with oil temp measure it in the pan, I think.

 

[David]

I used on that just replaces the oil drain plug. I think you would want to compare the oil temp in the pan near the pick up. Most vehicles that come stock with oil temp measure it in the pan, I think.

Interesting, I guess you would want to check the temperature at the hottest place.

 

[David]

The oil cooler's water lines connect to the top of the thermostat, so they are only active when the thermostat opens.
There is a plug on the LSJ block, below the oil filter, that is used with a M12x1.75 plug thread to the 1/8"x27 NPT thread adapter to measure oil temp/pressure. This is the oil after the oil sump pump, but before the oil filter. Or maybe you can find a sensor with those metric threads.

Should be plenty of room there and like @Gtstorey mentioned its reading oil that coming from the pan.

 

[Gtstorey]

I would be concerned that anything mounted in the block would read the temperature of the block not the oil. But again, I'm not sure at what point you should be measuring the oil temp.

 

[David]

I would be concerned that anything mounted in the block would read the temperature of the block not the oil. But again, I'm not sure at what point you should be measuring the oil temp.

The sensor I believe reads at the point not on the threads. So the block would have to radiant heat so the sensor picks up the block temperature. But again I'm not a temperature engineer lol

 

[David]

Ok so was going iver ZZP option-B tank piping and I noticed that mine is piped up differently. Looks like the over flow tub on the top has a restrictor which connects to the lsj intake or heat exchanger. Is that necessary in my turbo swapped LSJ?

 

[Robinjo]

Ok so was going iver ZZP option-B tank piping and I noticed that mine is piped up differently. Looks like the over flow tub on the top has a restrictor which connects to the lsj intake or heat exchanger. Is that necessary in my turbo swapped LSJ?

Yours might be piped different since it’s not using the Laminova cores like the LSJ should?

 

[David]

Yours might be piped different since it’s not using the Laminova cores like the LSJ should?

Its definitely piped definitely so I guess it only requires the insert if your using the Laminova cores?

 

[Robinjo]

I wouldn't be able to begin to tell you how that works. Someone with the Option B and a proper turbo setup might. Or Loogle it?