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V1 Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

Desert Sasqwatch
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Desert Sasqwatch
Haven't updated in a while, been extremely busy with life getting in the way of working on my Goblin for the past several weeks. But I finally found a day to sneak into the garage to make some progress. :D

Since my last post I have been slowly making progress on the diffuser fabrication. Found out the road sign aluminum does not like being bent at 90 degree angles - it will crack with little effort. I did procure enough material from another 'orphaned' sign to fab up the rest of the strakes.
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Getting everything to follow the airfoil curve of the top plate was a challenge. Ended up having the rear strakes fit thru the plate and are fastened on the top side. The front strakes have a compound bend and fastened on the plate face. The road sign aluminum is tempered (at least T5) and stiff enough that it won't flex under aerodynamic loading.
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Also got the side skirts fabricated. These extended about 2.5 inches outward and 'droop' about 1 inch.
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And finally I got the floor pan 'stiffeners' installed.
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If anyone has questions about materials or help with designing something similar, send me an IM. I need to do some additional tweaks to the shape (mostly ground clearance) of all of this underside aerodynamic 'magic' and final assembly on the diffuser after I get the road sign label facing off of it - this adhesive reflective plastic stuff is almost impossible to remove.

This should complete the bottom of my Goblin build and I can get back to the other 27 projects I have in work (or planned). I can get my Goblin sitting upright again - it's been sitting on its back for too long.
 
A
Haven't updated in a while, been extremely busy with life getting in the way of working on my Goblin for the past several weeks. But I finally found a day to sneak into the garage to make some progress. :D

Since my last post I have been slowly making progress on the diffuser fabrication. Found out the road sign aluminum does not like being bent at 90 degree angles - it will crack with little effort. I did procure enough material from another 'orphaned' sign to fab up the rest of the strakes.
View attachment 51910
Getting everything to follow the airfoil curve of the top plate was a challenge. Ended up having the rear strakes fit thru the plate and are fastened on the top side. The front strakes have a compound bend and fastened on the plate face. The road sign aluminum is tempered (at least T5) and stiff enough that it won't flex under aerodynamic loading.
View attachment 51911View attachment 51912
View attachment 51913

Also got the side skirts fabricated. These extended about 2.5 inches outward and 'droop' about 1 inch.
View attachment 51914View attachment 51915

And finally I got the floor pan 'stiffeners' installed.
View attachment 51916

If anyone has questions about materials or help with designing something similar, send me an IM. I need to do some additional tweaks to the shape (mostly ground clearance) of all of this underside aerodynamic 'magic' and final assembly on the diffuser after I get the road sign label facing off of it - this adhesive reflective plastic stuff is almost impossible to remove.

This should complete the bottom of my Goblin build and I can get back to the other 27 projects I have in work (or planned). I can get my Goblin sitting upright again - it's been sitting on its back for too long.
Your progress is making me tear up if not actually cry! I am so dern close on my toy and now MY shop and MY home get in the way. Add to that I hope to be ready to do HRPT starting JUNE 9 in Indy and ending 5 days later in Norwalk, OH. So some destructive testing and repair is likely needed as well! AND nobody makes 35mm read hose couplers for under $30 a piece. I need at least a half dozen if not more! The ones used by Goblin, are they 35mm/ 1-3/8"? or are they 1-1/4". I hate sloppy unions that add restriction!
 
Mahkoi
Your progress is making me tear up if not actually cry! I am so dern close on my toy and now MY shop and MY home get in the way. Add to that I hope to be ready to do HRPT starting JUNE 9 in Indy and ending 5 days later in Norwalk, OH. So some destructive testing and repair is likely needed as well! AND nobody makes 35mm read hose couplers for under $30 a piece. I need at least a half dozen if not more! The ones used by Goblin, are they 35mm/ 1-3/8"? or are they 1-1/4". I hate sloppy unions that add restriction!
I'm bored waiting for spray paint to dry in my garage so I figured I'd do some internet searching to help the gobalt project. Still not cheap but way better that $30 a piece. Sorry to hijack your build thread Squatch

 
A
I'm bored waiting for spray paint to dry in my garage so I figured I'd do some internet searching to help the gobalt project. Still not cheap but way better that $30 a piece. Sorry to hijack your build thread Squatch

I think Squatch will survive! I had found these before and lost the seller! THANKS. otherwise find me under other builds. Thanks oh furry tall one!:cool:
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Dang, been a while since I've dropped anything new in here. Summer hibernation season was not kind this year with hot temps and too much humidity (for a desert dweller). The temps are starting to come back down (low 100s and a few high 90s) so I can get back in the garage again. :D

Left off with floor and diffuser builds. The floor was pretty much done in April, had to do some final shaping of the 'stiffeners' to round off the leading edges and make certain that all mounting holes had some adjustment room to make certain going up under the car would be more doable.
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The diffuser was left off in April with the center strakes being formed, fitted, and mounting holes drilled to install with clecos to check clearance and alignment. All was good after some tweaking, then had to bond and rivet everything together.
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Used more than 100 rivets, most with backing washers to ensure a tight fit that won't loosen up with time. Had to locate an oil pan drain plug access door in the diffuser to make oil changes easier.
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Made certain the diffuser clears the oil pan and all other bolts, brackets, etc. under the engine bay - fits like a glove.
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Currently working on some fiberglass items, one of which was inspired by @Rttoys for locating a front license plate.
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More to come on this project - and maybe something from @talon2006?
 
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Desert Sasqwatch
Additionally, I finally determined where I wanted my A2W intercooler mounted. Needed to keep the airflow path as short as possible and the total angle and number of turns to a minimum. I also wanted it mounted as low as possible, since it has a lot of mass and is much larger than the 'stock' DF intercooler (not well suited to mounting above the engine).
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With it mounted at an angle it sits lower and gets the outlet closer to the intake throttle body AND coming in from the side avoids the -bad for airflow- 180 degree turn pipe used in the 'stock' setup with no clearance issues to the fuel tank. My system will have three 90 degree and two 45 degree turns, for a total of 360 degrees of turns so it meets my requirements. Fabbed up the (adjustable) mounting brackets and frame tabs for rigid mount into the frame.

Oh and I almost forgot: for anyone with a subframe mounted diffuser or a full aluminum floor pan who has found there is no place for a jack or stands frame lift point with these are installed, I fabbed up bolt-on lift points that clear the diffuser, floor pan, suspension, etc.
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They use a 1.5 inch u-bolt exhaust clamp on the bottom so it can be clamped onto any vertical frame member that is 1.25 or 1.5 inches - so it could be used in the rear, side or front of the frame. They are made from 1 inch and 3/4 inch tube and weigh only 1.25 lbs each (yeah, the speed holes do make them lighter), so they could be kept in the car without adding much weight.

I plan to add rubber pads to the contact points to help prevent marring the finish on the frame.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Yep, the fusebox will be relocated, altered or both. The wiring will obviously need to be altered for lengths too. Have been casually trying to determine if the fusebox and BCM could be combined somehow, but i need to dig deeper into each one's functional controls to see if transferable from one PCB to the other PCB. That's a future project on my long list of to-do items.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Making a little more progress on some smaller projects. Fabbed up a rock screen/grill for the radiator to help protect it.
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The frame is made from 0.100 sheet aluminum with the screen 'sandwich' riveted in to make it a rigid assembly. It is removable if needed. This finishes up the air flow channeling in the nose to direct 95% of the air coming in through the radiator or into the underhood plenum into the cockpit. :D

For those wondering what @Rttoys was poking me about for a license plate holder, I modified the lower lip of the radiator inlet in the nose to serve 2 purposes. One, as a place to mount a license plate that doesn't block the radiator. And two, as an aerodynamic enhancement for added downforce by the angle of incidence and to keep unwanted air flow from bleeding in the gap under the nose and radiator.
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It is fiberglass and is fitted to the top of the splitter from @talon2006. This works for my Goblin, since my nose piece is separate from my hood. But I'm certain that other similar designs could be created the would allow for use with the full hood and possibly hinged? Oh, and it is patent pending. :p
 
Desert Sasqwatch
The splitter is a purchased item from Talon's Garage.
It's made from 1/4 inch aluminum and is not readily modified.
 
comegetjoe
The splitter is a purchased item from Talon's Garage.
It's made from 1/4 inch aluminum and is not readily modified.
Not with that attitude.
 
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