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V1 Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

Joebob
A little late to the game but you need to make sure the transmission is shifted into Park or Neutral at the transmission. If you don't have the cable mounted to the shifter yet, the tranny might be in gear, and preventing a start.
 
Fenix Nexen
Joebob said:
A little late to the game but you need to make sure the transmission is shifted into Park or Neutral at the transmission. If you don't have the cable mounted to the shifter yet, the tranny might be in gear, and preventing a start.
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Tranny's in the farthest position back away from the driver on the auto shifter side the cable is all the way in
 
A
Please double check this but I believe from watching the wiring videos that the bundled 18-20 gauge wire near the fuse box is the fog light feed. The start wire is purple but much larger gauge, like 8-10 gauge. Remember, wire gauge numbers work backwards, "0" being the biggest and "24" being very thin. Why is the numbering backwards? I heard that the Romans are to blame. My theory is the Tower of Babel.(nobody knows)
 
A
Fenix Nexen said:
Tranny's in the farthest position back away from the driver on the auto shifter side the cable is all the way in
Click to expand...
It is the "neutral start" switch in/on the shifter, when the shifter handle is in neutral or Park that allows starter to turn over, CAUTION! If the shifter cable is not connected on both ends and correctly adjusted, the electrical switch in the shifter MAY allow the engine to be started in gear! There is no sensor on the trans to stop the car from starting while in gear!, the starter engagement is only stopped by the shifter switch! If an automatic car is started in gear it may lurch or even fully spin the driveline! Make sure the Trans is in Park which you can check (with the wheels off the ground) that the parking pawl(inside the trans) is engaged and one or both of the driven wheels won't turn.
 
A
USEFUL ODD INFO: In a car with an automatic "Park" only works with BOTH wheels on the ground. Because of the way a diff works you may find the drive wheels, while in "Park" with the vehicle raised, one wheel will turn and the other will be stopped or even spin the other way!(Auto VooDoo? IMO)When both drive wheels are on the ground this keeps the car stationary in "Park" because the wheels want to turn in opposite directions or one is locked stationary. This also means that when in "Park" and one drive wheel is off the ground the vehicle may try to roll downhill! BAD
 
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Fenix Nexen
Got a reader.

Codes:

P0443 Evap purge solenoid valve control circuit
P0449 Evap vent solenoid valve control circuit
P0452 Fuel tank pressure sensor circuit low voltage
P0102 MAF sensor circuit low frequency
P0113 intake air temperature sensor circuit high voltage

I unplugged the throttle body and confirm that the clicking was coming from it. Plugged it back in and now it's unresponsive when pressing the pedal with a new code

P0123 throttle position sensor 1 high voltage
P0122 throttle position sensor 1 low voltage
P0223 throttle position sensor 2 high voltage

I cleared the codes and the throttle body is back alive with no codes and responds once again
 
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Rttoys
Make sure the maf is installed the correct direction. There’s an arrow on top of the sensor that should point in the direction of airflow. Could possibly be a bad maf with also having the IAT sensor issue too orr wiring issue to the maf.

you got the other 2 tp codes from unplugging the throttle body. Clear codes, shut the key off for a few minutes and try again.
 
G
Since the MAF and Intake air temp are measured in the same sensor, if it’s not reversed, make sure it’s plugged in completely. They share a connector, but are separate circuits.
 

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Fenix Nexen
Rttoys said:
Make sure the maf is installed the correct direction. There’s an arrow on top of the sensor that should point in the direction of airflow. Could possibly be a bad maf with also having the IAT sensor issue too orr wiring issue to the maf.

you got the other 2 tp codes from unplugging the throttle body. Clear codes, shut the key off for a few minutes and try again.
Click to expand...

Throttle is good now, uploading a video showing some stuff, codes and a live data report from the reader. Also the code reader is reporting lost communication with the bcm even after clearing the codes. I can hear the pump picking up fuel now after fully removing the key and then turning it, the ignition does not want to free it



 
Fenix Nexen
I'm out of ideas, how common are blown fuses? Everything worked fine before teardown. Summery for end of day? Gauge lights up and needles move however the gas level stays at 0 even though the obii reader says the fuel level is at 20%. The butterfly flicks to life when key is turned on and responds to the gas pedal. I hear the fuel pump moving a little bit of fuel sometimes when turning the car to the on position. No noises whatsoever when the key is turned farther, no starter relay sounds. I jumped the starter at the box and it works, the engine will not start this way. I cleaned up the grounds and nothing changed. Thinking of doing a write out of what wires are cut at the BCMs, TCM, and ECMs later on.
 
Ross
Can the OBDii reader tell you what gear the transmission is in? I'm wondering if it is the safety switch on the shifter.
I was also wondering if it is a LAN data issue. But the OBDii reader is working, so there is data moving. The gas gauge gets it's info from the BCM, and since the OBDii reader is seeing the gas level, then the BCM knows the level, but the data isn't getting to the instrument cluster? That was a green wire on my LSJ. Maybe the low speed LAN? You know, all those green wires that get connected together.
 
Fenix Nexen
Ross said:
Can the OBDii reader tell you what gear the transmission is in? I'm wondering if it is the safety switch on the shifter.
I was also wondering if it is a LAN data issue. But the OBDii reader is working, so there is data moving. The gas gauge gets it's info from the BCM, and since the OBDii reader is seeing the gas level, then the BCM knows the level, but the data isn't getting to the instrument cluster? That was a green wire on my LSJ. Maybe the low speed LAN? You know, all those green wires that get connected together.
Click to expand...

Went and did some work looking over 3 of the 4 bcm plugs. Green is not cut, orange is spliced together, red is cut and grey is not there at all. Notice anything red that shouldn't be?

40725

40727

40728


I took the two cut low speeds and connected them haphazardly to the green on the dash button wire. This yields only one change I can see and thats the tire pressure light on the dash blinking now... I disconnected them for now, the day is over for me and I have to retire to bed soon

SmsDetroit said:
I know you are fighting a no start problem. If you haven’t found your coolant tank mount make sure you go through all the boxes. I found mine with my rear coil overs
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Its gone unless its part of stage 2, which I only have stage 1 parts.

Edit:
40729

one green is for the DRR and the other is VCIM I guess?
40730
 
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Ross
Fenix Nexen said:
...
I took the two cut low speeds and connected them haphazardly to the green on the dash button wire.
Click to expand...

Yeah sounds like the low speed LAN wires to me. Lonny says he has 5 dark green wires connected together on the late model cars. I don't know if the dash button wire is one of them.
 
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