• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

It Runs But...

G-Quest

Member
G
#268 is finally alive - 06 SS/SC. I've spent the last couple of months trying to figure out the source of several electrically-related issues that caused a variety of problems - from turning over but not starting to no gauge output, etc.

Once I figured out that I had confused the low speed GMLAN with the low speed Serial GMLAN (all those dark green wires) I thought I was home free. Unfortunately that only got me a working ODBII port. I then started reviewing grounds (it's always the grounds). I found all of the grounds called out in the wiring videos connected successfully however I found two grounds in the fusebox that were not terminated. Running grounds to those connections has brought the LSJ to life along with the dash and all the button panel functions.

However, there are a couple of lingering issues that I'm looking for suggestions on how to attack:

1. The engine starts immediately with a twist of the key. However, when I turn the key off, the engine will continue to run for 3 - 4 seconds before shutting down. I can even blip the throttle in this shut down stage and get a response. This is nowhere close to the run-on caused by dieseling - it's more like the power to the coils and injectors is not being cut by the switch.

2. The clutch position switch circuit does not prevent the engine from starting with the clutch released.

3. The only code I'm finding is P2229 (barometric sensor voltage high) (I retained the evap system so those codes have not shown up.) I read where @Chubbs had the same code but his thread never reached a resolution.

If any of the Gurus out there have any diagnostic suggestion I am open to hearing them all.
 
Vwsaabvt
The running after key off is from feedback from the heat exchanger fan. Pretty common, it can be fixed with a diode wired into the power side of the fan.



is your clutch position sensor adjusted so it is hitting the pedal?
 
G
Thanks for the links @Vwsaabvt - I should have searched the Forum before asking the question. It is comforting to know others have travelled the same path.

Regarding the clutch position sensor: I removed the sensor and verified that it operates as advertised - normally open with the plunger extended and closed with the plunger compressed. My issue is that I can start the motor with the clutch out (plunger extended on the sensor) which I'm guessing this little devil is supposed to prevent. I'm chalking this up to a wiring error on my part but I'm not certain where to look for a correction.
 
baustin
Thanks for the links @Vwsaabvt - I should have searched the Forum before asking the question. It is comforting to know others have travelled the same path.

Regarding the clutch position sensor: I removed the sensor and verified that it operates as advertised - normally open with the plunger extended and closed with the plunger compressed. My issue is that I can start the motor with the clutch out (plunger extended on the sensor) which I'm guessing this little devil is supposed to prevent. I'm chalking this up to a wiring error on my part but I'm not certain where to look for a correction.
You should have 2 clutch sensor circuits:
1 - engine starting, this one gets pressed when the clutch is fully depressed
2 - cruise cancel, this one is pressed when the clutch is not being used and cuts off cruise when you first touch the clutch pedal
 
R
It's been a hot minute since I've looked at my sensors and what not, but is it possible you have the sensors switched on the bracket? the one for the bottom positioned up top and the cruise cancel on the lower mount (what would be depressed when pushing the clutch in)?
 
C
I sent a PM regarding the P2229 code. I was never able to fix mine, but I was able to make the car run great anyway after some tuning. I just decided to work around it.

As for the car running after key off, a diode fixed mine. However, I didn't have a radiator fan at all (NACA ducts instead). I had to wire the diode in line with the intercooler pump, and that fixed it. I can't believe the IC pump has enough of an electrical field to power the whole car for 5 seconds, but it does.

To test, you might try just disconnecting the IC pump and see if it still does it. I bet it doesn't.
 
G
I sent a PM regarding the P2229 code. I was never able to fix mine, but I was able to make the car run great anyway after some tuning. I just decided to work around it.

As for the car running after key off, a diode fixed mine. However, I didn't have a radiator fan at all (NACA ducts instead). I had to wire the diode in line with the intercooler pump, and that fixed it. I can't believe the IC pump has enough of an electrical field to power the whole car for 5 second s, but it does.

To test, you might try just disconnecting the IC pump and see if it still does it. I bet it doesn't.
Thanks for the P2229 update. Appreciate the PM.

As for the run-on, I've ordered some diodes (here soon), but in the meantime I've cut the power wire to the intercooler fan and safed it off... and Shazam! no more run-on. I'll keep your experiences with the IC pump in mind should I encounter more trouble in the future. Thanks again.
 
Grayson
Thanks for the P2229 update. Appreciate the PM.

As for the run-on, I've ordered some diodes (here soon), but in the meantime I've cut the power wire to the intercooler fan and safed it off... and Shazam! no more run-on. I'll keep your experiences with the IC pump in mind should I encounter more trouble in the future. Thanks again.
I am having this same issue. Was a fix ever found?
 
Back
Top