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V1 LaunchPad's technology demonstrator -08 SS/TC donor- #109 registered

David
The Vue EPS is almost a direct drop in, with only needing to add the 120ohm resistor at the end of the data network since the current terminating resistor is in the EPS and the Vue doesn't have it.

Sounds like a good mod to do. Will try and look up a write up on install.
 
Rttoys
All of my normal suggestions:

-check for anything loose- steering shaft and steering rack are overlooked parts.
-put a wrench on all suspension nuts and bolts. Never know if something is a little loose, like strut bolts.

-tire pressure below 20psi (18 is where I set mine for street)
-about 1/8” toe in all around
-camber can come up to -0.5 to -0.3 all around
 
G
And make sure the tie-rod ends ball joints in the back weren't replaced with the wrong ones. This is one of the parts that all of the parts sites get wrong and you will get the wrong ones if you aren't extremely careful. And has caused one wreck already.
 
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G
And make sure the tie-rod ends in the back weren't replaced with the wrong ones. This is one of the parts that all of the parts sites get wrong and you will get the wrong ones if you aren't extremely careful. And has caused one wreck already.
Sorry, it was the ball joints that were incorrect, not tie -rod ends.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
If using the Vue EPS, make certain to get the correct one. There are two flavors of these an early model and a later model. Only the early model will accept the adjustable steering rate input. There is plenty of info on the interweb when searching in Dr. Google.
 
Ross
I would check the suspension and steering for any wear or movement.
If the wheels are solid, find someone who will take the time to give it a good laser alignment.
Occasionally I have drove a goblin with good stability and driving habits, but I would say a lot of them have "character" at higher speeds.
 
Rttoys
]
And make sure the ball joints in the back weren't replaced with the wrong ones. This is one of the parts that all of the parts sites get wrong and you will get the wrong ones if you aren't extremely careful. And has caused one wreck already.
i forgot about that on the turbo models. That’s a big one.
 
S
Probably been checked but lower control arm bushings will get the rear walking all over and adding some front downforce helps a ton. Mine was what I would consider dangerous at highway speeds until the addition of solid control arm bushings, custom windshield adding significant downforce, and i did not add a splitter but closed off the front lower of the car to prevent air from getting under and causing lift at high speed.
 
LaunchPad
2 for 2 shows. last year the Stalker got featured. . .this year he goblin got highlighted and i haven't even finished my grill yet!

Instagram

found my 5th gear finally on the way home by accident. . .thought i was down shifting to 3rd and low and behold car lugs MORE. turns out 5th is super close to 3rd- something like this:
goblin shift pattern.jpg


makes things VERY difficult for normal driving let alone spirited
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Hmm, the same shift fork rail that engages 5th also engages reverse in the F35. Unless there is something misaligned or worn in the transmission, this narrow gate between 3rd and 5th has to be something with the cable adjustment or alignment.
 
LaunchPad
Yes! i agree SOMETHING is definitely off. hard to narrow down solo without other knowledgeable eyes on the issue to really sort it all out. Maybe PISCO is feeling quite a bit better and willing to peak at things? The wife and daughter just don't process or communicate the info the same and really do not have the patience to sit in the car all day workin the shifter

so original cobalt bracket was too close to use the supplied shifter cables- didn't get a new bracket in my kit so was out operating all alone. . .

20250903_100058.jpg


my upgrade bracket was much much more in line with what was needed and actually used the original in its makeup so cables had same angles. photos not take at exactly same location or angle but i can assure you it is a parallel offset for the extra cable end length needed. . .

20250909_130915.jpg
 
David
2 for 2 shows. last year the Stalker got featured. . .this year he goblin got highlighted and i haven't even finished my grill yet!

Instagram

found my 5th gear finally on the way home by accident. . .thought i was down shifting to 3rd and low and behold car lugs MORE. turns out 5th is super close to 3rd- something like this:
View attachment 57503

makes things VERY difficult for normal driving let alone spirited

Mine is also difficult to het into 5
 
Desert Sasqwatch
This is my thinking how you could get a narrower gate side to side for the 3rd to 5th separation versus the 4th and reverse gate.
PXL_20260628_204057927.jpg


Essentially with the cable not being perpendicular to the shift lever in it middle position and will travel an equal amount when moved forward or back. If the cable is at an angle to the shift lever in the middle position, the movement forward will be less (or more if the angle is the opposite direction) than the movement rearward. The steeper the angle from perpendicular, the more difference there is between the movements forward and aft.

Don't know if this is case, can't quite tell from the photos. :D
 
LaunchPad
ahh. yes i see. most EXCELLENT point!!! Man we do have a bunch of smart folks on here. i sure was practically selling the whole DF brand at the cars and coffee the other day talking ya'll up but not nearly enough! hey if you ears were ringing yesterday i was indirectly mentioning a forum member with a penchant to drill holes in every bit of his car. lol

i will go look a bit closer at my shifter specifically in a few- tis toooo hot and super humid for my blood for actual metal fabrication today so have been a bit absorbed on testing out various PVC pipe cuts and setting up my CAD (inside an AC office-lol) for proper windshield fitment. i only have PLA+, carbon fiber, and some TPU sitting in the 3D lab currently but will need some PETG for the "fire for effect bits" and of course the profile i am after won't work everywhere around the windshield perimeter because of the instrument cluster brackets and cable routing that should also be considered. it is a starting point tho.
 
LaunchPad
weeeeellll <grr> got my first 4 inches of prototype windshield frame version 2 being printed out of PLA+ on the 3d printer and i was out looking over the Goblin and wife says "hey i haven't been on a ride yet" then daughter says "yeah i want one too". . . so a lil leisurely ride with the wife into the nearest "village" (1ish mile pop 242) with top speed of 40. then back to switch wife for kiddo and out the driveway to the next nearest village (~10ish miles pop ~179) in a bit more spirited manner.

On the way back about 6 miles out from the house we hear a loud bang and about 3 seconds later i see the lower, drivers side, brake bolt hit the ground. . . .errr PUCKER. we get to the side of the road and i retrieve the bolt. i think the noise was the spacer hitting the underbody. No sign walking up and down the highway for the spacer. . IT"S HOT!!!! I did find a bunch of someone else's rusty sockets that musta fallen out of a truck- lol. no not a 10mil- no idea where those go. lol. bolt is ok so i hand tighten it back in and drive very gingerly back to the house. We are in Nebraska- it was a straight line til the driveway but hand tight better than no bolt and a brake that might bang around. . . .guess i am making a spacer in the morning and going over EVERY bolt AGAIN with locktite if i want to get to any more shows this season. OY!!!

So the shifter cable issue on closer inspection may very well be that the cable anchors are not 90degress to the transmission levers. not on the stock form of the cobalt either but having to be offset at least 2 inches to account for the kit cable ends makes the swing even worse. so maybe in the morning i will also be mapping out a new shifter bracket that is 90 degrees from the pivot center when in neutral
 
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