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V1 LSJ Z54 Turbo Swap

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
F
So I've gotten most of the way there in terms of the turbo swap, but I'm hung up on a few remaining bits that I'm unsure on. I've numbered the remaining mystery nipples/hose connection points in the photos attached (1-9). Can anyone provide some guidance on the remaining below items?

Few notes on some of these:

4 - Currently, this has a short (4-6 inch) silicone line running up to what I believe is the valve cover breather nipple, but based on what I've seen in the videos from ZZP, it appears as though the turbo side of this line should have a connector similar to what is show in the line in number 7 below

7 - This is how this hose came assembled from ZZP. Not sure where is belongs and the instructions do not mention it anywhere. Almost looks like a fuel line?

The rest of these I'm really not too sure on. Thoughts anyone?
 

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95Blitz
5 is the bypass kindof like a blow of valve but dumps it back into the turbo. it will go to the intake manifold. If you want to run it.
6 looks like its for the waste gate could take it to an empty nipple on the intake manifold.

Thats all the help I can be at this point.
 
Fozda
6 goes to 3 through a boost controller, 7 is the brake booster line that comes off of 2, 4 goes to the valve cover but that looks to be hooked up already, 8 can be used for 5, 9 goes to the coolant reservoir, and I don't recall what 1 goes to but I had mine plugged.
 
Fozda
Looks like you hook the brake booster to that brass 90 and the throttle body is used for EVAP so if you don't have EVAP then you just plug it or cap it. I would also run 5 to the smaller brass 90 under the throttle body and just cap or plug 8.
 
Sluggonaut
I'm not sure that's entirely accurate for what he's got going on. I assume it's because yours is an LNF and his is an LSJ-T

Agreed, the ZZP adapter plate indicates it's an LSJ intake and will be a little different than the LNF's because of the intake.

I think my setup matches what Fozda posted above with a few differences in appearance because I have a K04:

1. Goes to the brake booster.
2. Mine is capped.
3. Goes to #6 with a boost controller in between.
4. Goes to the rear of the valve cover.
5. Goes to the intake manifold - mine connects under the throttle body but could also possibly go to #8.
6. Goes to #3 with a boost controller in between.
7. Not sure what that is but it looks like a fuel line.
8. Mine goes to my boost gauge, but I think it can be used in place of what #5 connects to on mine.
9. Coolant return line that runs to the coolant reservoir.

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F
Huge thanks to all of you - incredibly helpful and I really appreciate it.

Hoping to get this knocked out this evening or tomorrow morning.

@Sluggonaut out of curiosity, what is that blue capped nipple in your picture?
 
F
@Fozda I follow your channel so I believe we have a similar enough setup (or at least used to before you went air to air) for this question to be valid here:
The turbo inlet is coming in contact with the chassis and I’m no where near close enough to the mount hole. Am I doing something stupid here?
 

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Fozda
Yeah, just loosen the 4 bolts that hold the cold side housing on and rotate it to a good spot and tighten them back down. You'll probably have to adjust the wastegate actuator once you're done clocking the turbo though. Don't forget to do that part or your boost won't act right.
 
F
I had not done that, and now I have!
I’ve gotten the bolt holes lined up and started the bolts in them.

@Fozda did you use the shorter inlet that @Sluggonaut mentioned?
Here’s what I’m looking at now:
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Mount bolts are not tightened either so can’t really get the hose clamp in there.
 
F
Mine came with my Z54 entry level kit - OD of the inlet is 2" and is roughly 4 inches long. The silicone tube is what is causing the issue though. The wall of the tubing is fairly thick.
 
Sluggonaut
The shorter inlet makes it easier to get the hose on and the clamp fastened after passing under the frame. You might end up with a slight indent on the intake tube from the frame, but nothing that will affect airflow.
 
F
So I went ahead and cranked the engine into position without the coupler, and there’s no shot this will work without a shorter inlet - so I’m thinking maybe just trim the current inlet tube down a few inches (completely eliminating the “threaded” area) - instead of having to buy a shorter inlet tube. Does anyone see an issue with this?
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btw @Fozda I rewatched your turbo install video and your inlet tube is definitely shorter. Appears it doesn’t even cross the plane of that bar on the chassis
 
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