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V1 OptimizePrime's Build | '10 SS/TC #168 | Registered

OptimizePrime
Got ahold of some turn plates and put the gob through a proper alignment. I found the longacre products, although spendy, were really instrumental in getting her to track straight and not tramline as much. I may run a little less camber in the rears so I can get the full contact patch - I am getting loose in the high rpms on 22.5psi with the 285 r888r's which is kind of surprising. I'll check the tire pressure and warm them up next time before I start complaining though.

Toe: 1/8" Both Front and Rear
Camber: ~1.5* with me in it
Castor: 8.4*

I'm not quite sure if it was the camber adjustment or the castor that made the largest difference in tracking straight but once you get the alignment dialed in you really gain a sense of confidence at high speeds. Would love to get my hands on some corner balance scales next.

side note: Camber I found it took ~4 turns to achieve a 1deg difference whereas Castor it took half a turn for 1deg.
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I wasn't too fond of the brake / clutch fluid reservoir as I consistently had a small leak coming from it. I went ahead with the tilton three chamber reservoir, 3x 90deg 4an fittings, and printed up a bracket (attached) and reused the stock lines. After bleeding the brakes I was surprised how much more consistent the clutch and brakes were - even the smallest leaks matter!
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From here until the TOTD event on Oct 23 I'm mainly just working on the tune. They'll have a dyno out there so I'll get a few pulls and get a baseline for where she's at with stock turbo and other bits. Power mods coming over the winter :)
 

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OptimizePrime
That Longacre stuff looks like it could be worth the investment.

Turn plates + Angle + Toe Plates I'm in it for ~$460. I justified it as an educational expense and would break even by not otherwise having to take it to a specialty shop/time spent etc. Looking for the same angles on the corner balance scales o_O lol

I love that reservoir setup! Can you print you me one of those brackets??

Most def. pm your address - I appreciate your help on the dipyourcar project
 
OptimizePrime
Could you share the links to the Longacre items used for the alignment?

Angle finder for Camber / Castor - in the pic you'll see I made a little adapter, putting it flat against your wheels would work also. In the diy alignment thread they mention a cheaper angle finder, I tried this initially and bailed for this option.

Toe Plates

Turn Plates - Cheapest set I could find, couldn't justify spending any more. Worked well for this!
 
Anks329
Angle finder for Camber / Castor - in the pic you'll see I made a little adapter, putting it flat against your wheels would work also. In the diy alignment thread they mention a cheaper angle finder, I tried this initially and bailed for this option.

Toe Plates

Turn Plates - Cheapest set I could find, couldn't justify spending any more. Worked well for this!
Thanks!!
 
k.rollin
I also have the longacre digital caster/camber gauge and toe plates, but I cheaped out on turn plates. I used a steel protractor to measure my turning angle and four pieces of vinyl tile (two per side, with table salt in between).
 
OptimizePrime
Dumping a bunch of photos from the Tail of the Dragon meet. Overall it was a good turnout! The Porsche crowd (Renntech's Rennfest) was also there, seemed like there was a G8 meet also. Cops were handing out $500 tickets like candy, one fully built cobalt totaled (slid off into a tree... not even on the totd). Lots of armchair racers becoming ayrton senna for the weekend -- that being said, I'll definitely be back

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Kinda liking the dark green :oops:
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OptimizePrime
BUILD LOG UPDATE COMIN' IN HOT

This phase was centered around performance. Mods include

Engine
ZFR 6758 Turbo w/ high boost wastegate actuator
ZZP Ported Head w/ 82# Springs / Titanium Retainers
TTR Intake Manifold
Opel Injectors
ATI Damper
Neutral Balance Shafts
ZZP High Voltage Coil Packs
OTTP Throttle Body spacer (for meth)
ARP Head Bolts
Headgasket, Exhaust Manifold Gasket, Timing Cover gasket

Brakes
Tilton Fluid Reservoir
Wilwood Master Cylinder

Transmission
F35 w/ LSD to HHR F23 (4.17 fd) w/ Quaife LSD -- I'll document a detailed how-to in a bit

Pics incoming
 
OptimizePrime
Engine

I snagged a lightly used ZFR 6758 from facebook on a deal I couldn't pass up. It came with the high boost wg actuator (which becomes an issue later on). Stock K04 on the left. I swapped out the stock BPV for the forged bpv and 23-25psi springs. The sensor you see on the zfr is also broken so I replace it with the stock one since they used the same part numbers.
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So I knew I was going with the HHR transmission and wanted to rev higher not only to take advantage of the performance mods but to also shift less. When looking at what the aggregate would take in terms of cost, time, research, additional tools, risk etc. I just though it was better to buy the ported head & stage 2 cams with the tune. I see now they are offering the tune separately whereas before it was required...nice zzp

This was the first time really opening the engine up and putting it back together. During this same time I threw in the neutral balance shafts and added an ATI Damper as the cherry on top. I don't have too many pics of this but I got the 'opportunity' to undo all my new timing setup as I lacked the foresight and the positive cashflow to swallow everything upfront.


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Cleaned up and ready to roll
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He protec
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I installed the ARP hardware. The instructions said to make the rods hand tight before torqueing down the nuts to spec but honestly that felt incredibly loose. I torqued them to 89in/lbs and then the nuts to spec, I know some armchair racers may scoff ...and that's totally okay.
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Another thing when it came to installing the cams, once you set your timing marks and everything looks good you can turn the motor. Logic may tell you that you should be able to turn the motor over enough times to see the marks line up again, that is NOT the case and not something to worry about.

Props to @KSLunsfo for this trick, it works a treat. I wouldn't even try using a little pick or tool in that slot as the risk of rounding off the gear is too high
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The Neutral balance shafts are straightforward to install, the ATI damper on the other hand was not so straightforward.

First - the clearance on the ATI Damper is ever slightly too small to fit on the crank. There are threads out there that say you should get it machined to exact size and extend the keyway. In an ideal world, yes but when you factor in time and money vs the net benefit the end result is usually to just send it.

So....bring some water to a boil and place the Damper in to get it hot. Line up the keys on the crank and damper and pray to the car gods it'll fit on.

Take your old crankshaft bolt and torque it down - I think specs call for something over 200ftlbs.... I believe I went to 150 and called it a day as snapping this bolt would be catastrophic.

Take the bolt out and torque a new bolt in to spec. You will need to find the old auxiliary pulley and mount it as there are no belts available in the right rib / size for the ATI Damper :(
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The TTR Intake Manifold is a beautiful piece. I was somewhat worried about this one as it doesn't have the same mounting points for various items and it's a little bit of a tight fit against the fuel tank, but everything worked out great. I plugged the big brake booster port as I went all manual brakes.

You'll also notice the OTTP spacer here. I plugged it if I end up going with meth injection. Also, you can see the Opels here with a fresh seal kit, install is straighforward.
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On the metal fuel pipe, I had to carefully bend it in order to not touch the intake. I also had to cut some mounting tabs off for the same, in the end it's very close but even accounting for vibration clearance there's enough room without any major changes to stock.

You'll also notice a barb sticking out where the internal PCV is. I moved away from the catch-can on the exhaust side to bringing the PCV external using the barb on the intake side > PCV > Catch-Can > Intake barb. This TTR intake not only gives about 30whp but allows for the external PCV so I thought it was a win-win even though it's a spendy piece.
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Brakes up next
 
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OptimizePrime
Manual Brakes

The motivation to go fully manual was brought on by the spongy brakes which grabbed at the very bottom of the travel. I installed the vacuum regulator and while better than stock it never gave me the warm and fuzzies. I already had the tilton reservoir so the last piece of the puzzle was the Wilwood Master Cylinder. I followed the guys to a T over on this thread (https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/manual-brake-conversion.1038/ ). Going to the wilwood mc also meant we're capping off the vaccum port on the intake as there is no longer a brake booster.

I would say this is a definite improvement over stock & vac. regulator. The pedal feel is MUCH firmer all the way through the pedal travel. I feel like I need to upgrade pads to something a bit more aggressive with more initial bite to really get a feel and give my opinion - right now I have autozone pads and would not want to be on the Dragon with how things are. Even still, they inspire confidence and we're headed in the right direction on the brakes. More pics in the Manual Brakes thread

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I found it a bit difficult to pressure bleed using the tilton reservoir, I'm guessing it's due to the caps having a hole on top. At the end of bleeding the front or rear brakes, I would always have fluid up to the very top of the reservoir which often created spills. I ended up just putting electric tape over top of the holes on the caps while bleeding and then using a paper towel to pull the extra fluid from the top section, that works well enough.

For the first time, I finally don't have any brake fluid leaks at the calipers or at the reservoir... feelsgoodman
 
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