V1 PHerder's Track Frame with lower entry bars

[PG5]

Sorry, I'm not at home to look. Rockauto has a pic with the relay diagram:


http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=950965&cc=1440996&jsn=473

 

[PHerder]

Found the electrical diagram of the fuel pump wiring and using my multimeter found what pin goes where and plugged in the relay for future!

 

[Lonny]

The relay can not be put in wrong.
Either way is ok.

 

[TheNuker]

I'll go take a picture of an extra fuse box out of a 2008 LS give me a few minutes.

Nuker-

NeverMind Lonny said it does not matter!

 

[PHerder]

Almost done doing the steps in the second video. Got a bad storm coming in so I pushed the donor back into the shop and thus I cannot get the passenger's side door open far enough to take it off. Tomorrow it will be off!

As for the relay, I will get the wiring diagram out again and see if electrically it makes sense that it can be plugged in either way.

After a year of training on how to hot wire a Titan II missile complex and parts of the missile itself, I have to get it straight in my mind how the wiring works... and I will do that after Lucifer!



Okay, I'm back and have checked the relay and the wiring diagrams and found that the relay coil is pins 85 and 86 and the switch part of the relay is 30 and 87 and both sets are at opposite corners of the relay so no matter how you plug it in, it will work.

My experience with relays is that they have a diode on the coil to keep reverse voltage from energizing the relay. If this relay had the diode, you could not reverse it because the diode would not let it work. This relay does not have the diode so it works in either direction (tested with my multimeter!)

Thanks Lonny! You were correct due to no diode internal to the relay.

 

[PHerder]

Video 2 steps completed! Now to get the 2008 LS sold and out of the shop so I can concentrate on the SS/SC tear down.

At least I will have to rearrange the shop for better space usage!

 

[GingerAle]

Nice choice of tires. And you're very lucky to find such donors.

 

[PHerder]

~ half way thru the steps in video 3! And probably some of the steps in several of the later videos!

 

[PHerder]

Steps in video #3 are done! Had a bit of a problem getting the cradle out. There was a perished bushing on the right (passenger side) rear cradle mount (where the lower control arm mounts and this control arm had the perished bushing) and a rusted hole where the rear cradle bolt hold goes thru thus allowing the lower control arm to move around (I think).

I posted in the disassembly and prepping area (http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/cradle-differences.288/).

 

[PHerder]

Just about done with the steps in the 4th video! I have to get some 2x4s for my dolly to lower the eng/trans assembly onto. Also I have to cut off one of the bolts holding the muffler to the down pipe from the engine. It is a mass of rust that is holding on for dear life!

Quite a few differences between the stock 2.2l automatic that was disassembled in the video and my SS/SC! I was able to remove the heater hoses from the engine instead of cutting them at the firewall. Also I removed the shifter cable hold down assembly with the cables still attached from the transmission. I couldn't see how they were supposed to come off back in that dark area! Also I unscrewed the clutch fluid line at the transmission. Air cleaner and windshield wiper fluid tank swapped sides.

Hopefully tomorrow I will succeed in removing the eng/trans assembly and then I will be separating the trans from the engine to see if I can see why power from the engine is not making it thru to the axles.

 

[PHerder]

Steps in Video 4 DONE!

Picture shows the results AND the second cradle (on the right) that I just picked up to replace the original one that has a rusted out mounting hole. This one has the slots for the anti roll bar mounts as opposed to the two bolts per mount that the SS had.

I don't know what everyone else has done to remove the eng/trans assembly from the car WITHOUT cutting off the front top cross member but I just lifted the car up off the eng/trans assembly that was on the roll around cart. Just like I used to do with the Fieros I had.

Now to remove the trans from the engine to see why it doesn't work.

 

[JSATX]

Steps in Video 4 DONE!

Picture shows the results AND the second cradle (on the right) that I just picked up to replace the original one that has a rusted out mounting hole. This one has the slots for the anti roll bar mounts as opposed to the two bolts per mount that the SS had.

I don't know what everyone else has done to remove the eng/trans assembly from the car WITHOUT cutting off the front top cross member but I just lifted the car up off the eng/trans assembly that was on the roll around cart. Just like I used to do with the Fieros I had.

View attachment 1071

Now to remove the trans from the engine to see why it doesn't work.

Yep that's exactly what I did. I tried to cut the frame but didn't have a long enough blade! Lifted the car up and over the engine/subframe on a furniture dolly.

Please let us know what's binding up in the transmission, that's pretty strange.

 

[PHerder]

Yep that's exactly what I did. I tried to cut the frame but didn't have a long enough blade! Lifted the car up and over the engine/subframe on a furniture dolly.

Please let us know what's binding up in the transmission, that's pretty strange.

Actually it isn't binding. There just isn't a connection between the drive axles and the transmission. I am thinking ring gear? LSD? Clutch? Aliens? Satan?

 

[Tony]

Steps in Video 4 DONE!

Picture shows the results AND the second cradle (on the right) that I just picked up to replace the original one that has a rusted out mounting hole. This one has the slots for the anti roll bar mounts as opposed to the two bolts per mount that the SS had.

Good progress. As pointed out in the link I posted yesterday, if you feel you absolutely need to run an SS size sway bar, you can get the '05 SS mounts/bushings, but I highly doubt that's necessary.

 

[PHerder]

I was looking at the pictures of completed cars and didn't see any sway bars installed. I will be going that direction since my new to me cradle uses the slotted mounts but the original donor used the two bolt mounts.

Watching video #5 for today's activities...

 

[JSATX]

I was looking at the pictures of completed cars and didn't see any sway bars installed. I will be going that direction since my new to me cradle uses the slotted mounts but the original donor used the two bolt mounts.

Watching video #5 for today's activities...

I'm currently conducting experiments on running it with and without a sway bar. It's just been raining too much lately to drive.

It is definitely more responsive with the bar installed. I've been having a significant amount of understeer when pushing it and am hoping it reduces that some. I have a track day Saturday and hope to really get a better idea of what the sway bar changes.
Though it's probably going to get rained out :,(

 

[TheNuker]

I also wanted to keep in mind that myself will be upgrading the rears to coilovers and that will again change how it feels.

Nuker-

 

[PHerder]

Getting the steps in video #5 completed. Had to cut off one of the seat belt bolts as it succeeded in breaking two T50s and bending the teeth on another.

I was taking off the shifter and was wondering about this module... I believe it controls the air bags, correct? And it is not used in the Goblin and can be left behind...

Taking a break (lunch) and bandaging up some blood letting (no work on a vehicle is complete unless a blood sacrifice is done!)

Next step is in the engine compartment and then the removal of the dash!

 

[TheNuker]

Yep, I have that module still sitting on my bench. It connects to some form of recording system in the car. I think it is kind of like a black box iirc. But you don't need it.

Nuker-

 

[PHerder]

Yea! Whoopee! Hurrah!

My transmission is NOT broke!!!!!!!

The clutch tho', is worst than toast. That is why no connection between the drive axles and the motor! AND I was going to replace the clutch anyway! I can move the clutch disk around while it is "clamped tight" to the flywheel by the pressure plate.

Now, I have to go out and buy the special socket to take off the PP bolts. Anyone know what size/name this bolt is? It looks like a reverse Torx. i.e. I have Torx screwdrivers but no Torx sockets.

Once that is off, I can asses the condition of the flywheel and see if it needs to be replaced also but the real expensive piece, the transmission with G85 LSD still works!

One thing I am in awe of is the people who change out the clutch while the transmission is in the car! I had enough trouble getting the transmission off the engine sitting on the floor!